Upper 130K Maintenance

[pbgsho]

I am in the process of doing an upper 130k on my 90 SHO. I have removed the hoses going to the heater core and noticed that the metal pipe from the heater core has what appears to be a swaged aluminum fitting connecting a short rubber hose that attaches to the block. Believe I have read that this fitting is prone to leak so I wondered if it is advisable to cut the fitting off and replace it with a rubber hose and clamps?
Never will understand why Ford used these bastard hose clamps since I had to cut four of them off.
Hopefully when I remove the rear passenger side intake hold down the rear valve cover will come out. This must be a two person job since I have not been able to hold wiring and other lines out of the way while removing the valve cover.
In addition to checking the valve lash ,replacing plugs and wires, water and vacuum lines, thermostat, valve cover gaskets and plug well seals what other items should I consider replacing?
Once it is running I will look at doing front main seal, cam seals, CPS and timing belt. Being somewhat conservative I don't want to change too much at one time since, if there are problems, it makes diagnostics somewhat more difficult
Thanks,
pbgsho

 

[PlakeStang]

Are you are refering to the crimped aluminum clamp that attaches the hose to the pipe from the engine? If so I have ground those off of many a ford heater hose pipes and reattched moulded hoses with worm clamps. Really the only way to repair them unless you can find new old stock. Only other things I see not listed in you post would be a crank sensor and a water pump.

 

[jayro]

Zip ties work well as an extra set of hands to hold wires ect out of the way. I use them when pulling and replacing the rear valve covers.

 

[itwonder]

Yes, you can cut off the crimp. But don't just cut off the pipe at the crimp. The pipe is beaded underneath the crimp, and that bead will help retain the molded hose and clamp you use as a replacement.

I've used a combination of wire, zip ties, and bungee cords to hold that wiring up and out of the way of the rear valve cover. Be very careful not to roll the rear valve cover gasket when you reinstall the cover.

You may want to do the rearmost cam seal from the top while you have the valve cover off. Many think it is much easier to remove the cap and do it that way than it is to do it from the side, which is difficult unless you have the Rotunda tool. The other two cam seals are easy.