blue2ndgen
New Member
So did you check the valves to see if he did?
UPDATED: My slow build...new pics
- Thread starter angelsmaybleed
- Start date
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So did you check the valves to see if he did?
zblackbeast
SHOtarded
I have not. im going to leave the heads on for now. i dont have the cash for all the gaskets.. ha. Im doing a 3.2 build with the 3.0 heads, SO when thats ready to go in, ill take a look at the heads... But i am VERY impressed with the way the heads look.. Wen she gets running im going to use royal purple in the motor and trans.... The Explorer is also going to be getting royal purple here this weekend too...
angelsmaybleed
shogun[914]
ok so i have my engine ripped apart and im in no rush to put it back together so i was messin around on sho source thinking about gettin the runners and tank ported but theres 3 different stages of porting how much of a difference us stage 3 from stage 1 worth 200 dollars difference and will any of this porting be worth it if i dont get the bbb for a while? http://shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=19
johndallara
Active Member
SHO 60K stuff
your upper 60K rehab project looks good so far.
I took a "clean as you go" approach. So a part came off, I cleaned it and put it aside. Especially the intake tanks and runners. With the upper intake off, a good time to disassemble it, put in new gaskets and replace the rubber connectors. SHOsource has them, I think, or you can improvise -- several threads on this, I believe.
With the upper intake off, I would also replace every hose in sight. The vac hoses that control the secondaries are small and seem to be prone to cracking.
For plugs, I would use the Motorcraft ones, e.g.
http://k-mansparts.com/items/taurus-sho/ford-taurus-sho-motorcraft-spark-plugs-mcshoplugs1-detail.htm
You can get the valve cover gaskets at any auto parts store, they are FelPro. Also are the rubber pieces for the plug wells. The rubber fit-pieces for the valve cover bolts are not in the kit, I suggest buying some off a forum member, enough disassembled engines out there to supply some.
Of course, I would replace the plug wires while the mess is apart. The just follow the shim adjustment per Phoenix, and you are good to go.
http://www.shophoenixproject.com
The SHO source ported runners are nice, coupled with BBB and a cold air intake setup (take out the silencer) you may get a little performance kick-up.
Happy trails.
JD
your upper 60K rehab project looks good so far.
I took a "clean as you go" approach. So a part came off, I cleaned it and put it aside. Especially the intake tanks and runners. With the upper intake off, a good time to disassemble it, put in new gaskets and replace the rubber connectors. SHOsource has them, I think, or you can improvise -- several threads on this, I believe.
With the upper intake off, I would also replace every hose in sight. The vac hoses that control the secondaries are small and seem to be prone to cracking.
For plugs, I would use the Motorcraft ones, e.g.
http://k-mansparts.com/items/taurus-sho/ford-taurus-sho-motorcraft-spark-plugs-mcshoplugs1-detail.htm
You can get the valve cover gaskets at any auto parts store, they are FelPro. Also are the rubber pieces for the plug wells. The rubber fit-pieces for the valve cover bolts are not in the kit, I suggest buying some off a forum member, enough disassembled engines out there to supply some.
Of course, I would replace the plug wires while the mess is apart. The just follow the shim adjustment per Phoenix, and you are good to go.
http://www.shophoenixproject.com
The SHO source ported runners are nice, coupled with BBB and a cold air intake setup (take out the silencer) you may get a little performance kick-up.
Happy trails.
JD
angelsmaybleed
shogun[914]
yeah i figured if i was going to clean the **** out of the runners that i should just have them ported and painted by shosource i bught all the new gaskets and seals from rockauto my valve cover bolt seals i believe are in decent shape so im probably going to reuse them unless some one has some cheap ones as far as the couplers go im going to order those from sho source shortlybut im contemplating having my intake ported even though im not getting the bbb's for a couple months or more just not enough bank to do it all at once
bubba
ATX Connoisseur
Hay man. looks good
I'm in the middle of cleaning my intake manifold:woohoo:. I thought it would harder to work on a sho. After getting that big intake off it's not bad. keep up the good work man.
I'm in the middle of cleaning my intake manifold:woohoo:. I thought it would harder to work on a sho. After getting that big intake off it's not bad. keep up the good work man.
zblackbeast
SHOtarded
Ha i know. that intake makes it look so intimidating. I just hate how much crap there is to remove i know im going to forget something somewhere!!
jthod
Mr. Goodwrench
3rd time around is much eaiser.
zblackbeast
SHOtarded
HAHA, thanks for that. But the problem is still the first time around!! I might be giving you a call to come give me a hand!!
jthod
Mr. Goodwrench
Bolts and hoses, that all it is, just lots of them! I've got the '93's intake off right now if you want to see. I'm waiting on a gasket from RCM.
zblackbeast
SHOtarded
HA, idk, i think its a bit more than just seeing, i just have to really be attentive when i put things back together and make sure all the ******* are connected.
jthod
Mr. Goodwrench
Make sure when everything gets buttond back up, torque then nuts on the runners and secondaries to the reccommended value (20-24lbs ?). I had problems with vacuum leaks on mine, but that may have been because of the PCing and the copper RTV.
The toughest parts for me on the intake was after disassembling it putting the secondaries back together and bolted on to the butterflies, and subsequently getting the runners to line up with the intake ports on the head. Turns out when putting the intake back on the heads after reassembly you have to leave all of the nuts and brackets on the intake loose, and tight them after you line up everything.
jthod
Mr. Goodwrench
I just had to keep the couplers loose, everything else was torqued when I put it on.
angelsmaybleed
shogun[914]
i wanna say thanks to everyone for any help and advice they have given me so far i hopefully will be putting everything back together by the end of may if everything goes as planned...i m going to paint the intake, valve covers and timing cover all black then put it all back together...then rod bearings...cant wait!
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Bring the "extra" Yamaha stickers to the KC meet and I bet you'll get rid of all you want . . . .
Oh, . . . dibs!
Oh, . . . dibs!
Storm-Chaser
New Member
The contrast between portions of the head that have oil sludge and portions that are very clean, suggest neglect by the prior owner(s) which allowed for a minor sludge build-up, followed either you or the previous owner using a good quality oil with frequent change-intervals which has started breaking down and removing the prior build-up. Like Rubydist posted, you can try some AutoRX and it should remove the remaining sludge build-up.
so i fianlly started breaking down my engine to do the 60k at 105k unbelievable huh heres a couple pics tell me what you guys think cause ive never done this before so im not sure what its saposed to look like in here
[images deleted]
jthod
Mr. Goodwrench
I was planning on taking them to the first meet, and forgot. I will definitly take them to KC though.
You will scratch the paint off of the snakes when you put them back together again, so make sure you touch it up before taking off the masking and attaching them to the butterflies.
revhardSHO
SHO Member
Not to shabby. They look fine. More important than the coloring/sludge buildup is the condition of the shims.
Here's a pic from my SHO, 99,000 miles. I did the upper 60K about 7 months ago. Pretty clean:
Here's a pic from my SHO, 99,000 miles. I did the upper 60K about 7 months ago. Pretty clean:
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