UPDATED: My slow build...new pics

[angelsmaybleed]

so i fianlly started breaking down my engine to do the 60k at 105k unbelievable huh heres a couple pics tell me what you guys think cause ive never done this before so im not sure what its saposed to look like in here

 

[jthod]

Looks Pretty clean!

Tips:

-PUT SOMETHING IN THOSE OIL PASSAGES!!! and don't forget to take them out.

-double and triple check your math on the shims, it's simple math, but it's also easy to make simple mistakes.

-Clean the ever living S%^T out of your intake.
---either use a good parts washer (automated)
---or Berrymans B-12 + one of these:

I found it at a small town Ace or True Value for like $6, but it worked great.

-If you have the time, effort, and patience: Paint or Powdercoat your intake! These things look amazing with just about any color combo. There are several threads with other pics, but here's mine:

As long as you follow those guide of the SHOPP website, you should be golden.

Have fun

 

[rubydist]

Not bad, but a little more varnish in there than what I'd like to see. After you get it back together, I'd run the AutoRX treatment exactly like they suggest for cars w/ over 100k miles. (And, my guess is you will find some valves w/ too much clearance.)

 

[zblackbeast]

Is that what cams with over 100 k on them are supposta look like? Mine DONT look like that at ALL. ill post a pix later...

 

[angelsmaybleed]

hey where is the tensioner pulley for the accessory belt on an mtx?

 

[jthod]

I've always wondered this: Why are some of the cams much more tarnished than the others? (Like the middle intake cams, compared to the others on either side of them.)

 

[smokin joe]

Mine @212k didnt have the dark build up tarnish stuff but yours isnt bad, The car has 2 tensioners one for each belt I forget what one is what, but one is next to the battery on the front and the other is back by the water pump somewhere, Both are Meteric Allens to adjust tension

 

[K-Dawg]

I've seen engines that looked worse. A little bit of sludge in that one, but otherwise its not a dark brown like a lot of others I've seen.

The MTX has two accessory belts: a 4-rib that drives the power steering and waterpump, and a 6 rib that drives the Alternator and AC. The tensioners aren't hard to find on the front of the engine.

The brown parts on the cam lobes are where the shim doesn't touch. The shiny parts are where the lobes touch the shims.

 

[whiteguy3]

Mine did not look anything like that...They were virtually spotless with just a slight yellowing from the oil over the years. No varnish or sludge at all.

 

[Brett]

Looks Pretty clean!

Tips:

-PUT SOMETHING IN THOSE OIL PASSAGES!!! and don't forget to take them out.

-double and triple check your math on the shims, it's simple math, but it's also easy to make simple mistakes.

-Clean the ever living S%^T out of your intake.
---either use a good parts washer (automated)
---or Berrymans B-12 + one of these:

I found it at a small town Ace or True Value for like $6, but it worked great.

-If you have the time, effort, and patience: Paint or Powdercoat your intake! These things look amazing with just about any color combo. There are several threads with other pics, but here's mine:

As long as you follow those guide of the SHOPP website, you should be golden.

Have fun

Is yamaha painted on the valve cover or is a sticker? Holds up to high temp? Looks good.

 

[93MTXSHO_STUD]

2nd on the color on the lobes. All 2nd on covering the oil passages. Last weekend when I did the valve adjustment I forgot to cover the oil passage and when I was scraping the RTV off by the cam sensor a long string fell in the passage. Talk about some fun. I ended up using a long dental pick to get it out. Also when you swap shims make sure you prime the shim bucket a couple of times to squeeze all the oil out so you have an accurate feeler gage measurement. If you have the PDF of the students manual for the SHO that tells you everything you need to know about valve adjustment. Also you might want to put some Amsoil Powerfoam in the cylinders while your their(crank the engine over a few times and blow that crap out the spark plug holes). Something I did recently to clean my valves....I noticed last time I took off my intake the valves for the intake secondaries were much dirtier than the primaries. I put alot of that lucas injector cleaner in the gas, drove it on a trip with the secondaries unpluged, then pulled the intake off. All the deposited were gone and dried up. I don't know if any of yall have tried this, but it does wonders.

 

[angelsmaybleed]

are autolite platnum plugs any good? i bought them under the impression they were and now im wondering where i read that...it had the boush 4 prong platnums in there b4 but i heard those are horrible

 

[zblackbeast]

Here are my cams

 

[1993MTXSHO]

that thing looks like an engine that someone already ran some cleaner through. It got some off but not all of it, however overall not to bad

 

[blue2ndgen]

Here are my cams

How many miles and what oil and filter do you use?

 

[jthod]

Is yamaha painted on the valve cover or is a sticker? Holds up to high temp? Looks good.

Sticker from a guy on ebay. Look in the badges and stickers section in Asia motorcycles, them Yamaha. I bought 12, and got about 40. WAAAYYY to many, but lots of different choices. Only like $12!!!

 

[jthod]

are autolite platnum plugs any good? i bought them under the impression they were and now im wondering where i read that...it had the boush 4 prong platnums in there b4 but i heard those are horrible

The Autolite DOUBLE Platinum plug is good, which part number do you have? The Autolite plug is very close to the stock Motorcraft, but much cheaper.

Bosch are junk if you ask me, and most others. 1 Prong > 4 Prong

 

[zblackbeast]

It has 170 k on it... BUT the previous owner said it had a valve job ~20 k ago... COnsidering i drove it for about 10 miles before it was garaged (bad trans), it has what ever jiffy **** uses. I took it there cause i first thought it was a slow leak so i was going to take advantage of that "we fill all your fluids if you get an oil change" thing, but as fast as thay could pour it in, it would come out... Ha, damn MTX IV.... I know it needs rod berrings tho...

 

[rubydist]

What I find is that different brands of oil really are different - and the amount of varnish under the valve covers is one area that it really shows up. My blue 93 looked worse than the original poster's pictures after 174k miles because the prior owner used the cheapest oil he could find from the quick-change places. My red 94 looks about like the last photos after 110k miles because I always use Mobil 1 in it. M1 really does keep the engine cleaner... I haven't had the covers off the white 94 yet, but my parts car looked better than the op's photos after 220k miles...

 

[blue2ndgen]

I agree with you about the quality/type of oil, but I think oil flow is just as important. My car has 109k on it and I'm not sure what the previous owner used, but I've used Mobil 1 for the last 26k. My front head looks like the original poster's but my rear head is even worse. I believe it is from the chain tensioners being completely gunked up on the rear and semi gunked on the front. The tensioners, when clean, are also suppose to spray oil over the valve train. I will post pics of my heads soon.

The reason I haven't given up on Mobil 1 after seeing that is because I had the same scenario with my sisters car. After using Mobil 1 for about 30k it went from black to "I think I can see my reflection".