underhood temps. data...

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DavidT

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well, I noticed on v8sho.com mailing list that Paul was doing some testing with trying to lower the temps. I too have been monitering the temps (mostly for a before/after comparison when I get the cowl hood installed). He mentioned that he removed the passenger side cowl (I assume the part that houses the cabin filter). I tried this (removed upper and lower)... (the temp. probe is on top of the maf tubing)... the temps. did NOT lower BUT:

I have been concerned lately because the volts gauge has been reading a bit low (a/c on, 85-95 F heat) even at 2K+ rpms. The alternator is only 2 months old. It will start out at 14.1-14.4V even under full load, but when the engine gets warmed up, it gets as low as 13.3V. SO...

with todays experiment (cowl removed), the volts gauge stayed at 13.8, when it lately would have read 13.3V. :cool: It just so happens, the pass. cowl is DIRECTLY above the alternator.

FWIW, my temp. gauge consistently reads 30 degrees F above ambient when the engine is normal temp., and I am on the highway doing 60+ mph. If I slow down any, the temp will rise 50 degrees above ambient. Stop and go= 60 degrees above ambient OR 155+ degrees F. This did NOT change any with the pass. cowls removed.
 

SHOZ123

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I take my measurements with a probe and on top of the IRM in the middle. The best set up was whit one side or the other but just one cowl bottom piece. I still have both top pieces on and when i took off the other top the temps actually rose. I figured it was drawing exhaust heat up when driving that would normally go under the car.


Any way I get around 130F when cruising and 170F when idling.

Temps in the 90Fs and A/C on.
 

DavidT

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the local Ford dealer put it in (under warranty)... I never noticed all the voltage drop until these HOT summer days hit. Could they have put a wrong choice alt. in?
 

SHOZ123

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An alternator can be affected by heat as will the battery. But I think Larry Eck had a Ford Remanufactured alt go out on him in a short time too.
 

SHO#7

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SHOZ123 said:
An alternator can be affected by heat as will the battery. But I think Larry Eck had a Ford Remanufactured alt go out on him in a short time too.

The key word is "too". 13.3 volts is not enough. Even if your extended warranty is over, you should have some recourse on the replacement of your alternator. I would check all connections and the battery before I went to Ford. Just incase your gauge is inaccurate. That way you do not pay something for nothing.

Mike
 

DavidT

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hmmmm. I am planning on relocationg the battery to the trunk (UPS brought my DelCity and Waytek packages yesterday :) )
The alt. AND my car is STILL under warranty. Will a relocated battery to the trunk effect any warrant issues regarding my low voltage alternator?
 

somedude_001

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that is a tough one on the warranty, I would say yes they could question the warranty with a relocated battery, i would try and get this sorted out first and then relocate the battery.
 

Vroom

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Yeah I'd say so. Mine is under warranty too but currently don't have any batt/alt problems (knock on wood).
 

DavidT

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SHO#7 said:
The key word is "too". 13.3 volts is not enough. Even if your extended warranty is over, you should have some recourse on the replacement of your alternator. I would check all connections and the battery before I went to Ford. Just incase your gauge is inaccurate. That way you do not pay something for nothing.

Mike
*UPDATE*
I took it to the Ford Dealership today (same one that put the alternator in it back in May). They tested it, and said it IS within specs. Even though the voltage was at OR less than 13v at idle AND 13.3v reving (max AC and headlights on). I don't see how it is "within spec" :shrug:
In stop and go traffic, causing the underhood temps to get heat soaked, the voltage drops. On cold startups, the voltage is good. I told this to the mechanic. He had a blank look on his face. :hpoop:
Oh well, hopefully relocating the battery, and the cowl hood will help.
 

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