Uh-Oh, First signs of bad clutch??

[SHOemup]

In the past day or two my car has really been a bitch to get into first. It's not hard but when i come to a stop and put it in first, it doesn't go right in. If if i'm letting the car sit in Nuetral for whatever reason, when i go to put in into first, it's tough. It kinda feels like i'm hitting Nuetral two or three times when i put it in first at stop. I go from second, to nuetral, and then it feels like i go through non-existant nuetral gears. I don't know how else to explain it. Also, If i'm stopped, and play with the gears, it is really hard to go from first to second. All the other gears are fine but first to second is just rough. this is when i move the shifter from gear to gear when i'm at a stop. When i'm moving and shift, everything shifts nice and easily except downshifting from 3rd to 2nd and that whole getting it into first thing. Has my clutch hit the beginning of the end?

P.S. I've tried adjusting it like it says to do in the manual.

 

[68style]

I have the same problem on my '94 MTX

I only have 40,000miles on the odo but last time I drove it (it sits most of the time hence the low mileage) it was REALLY hard to put into first after driving for awhile. Like.. really notchy.

One time I thought it wasn't even going to go in, I had to use a lot of force to get it in

I dunno what is wrong, I don't see how my clutch could be worn out with the mileage I have...

 

[Emerald94]

That's how it started on mine. I'm afraid it's time for a new clutch. You'll be able to drive for a while but it will get harder and harder to select first gear.
I barely made it to the garage with mine! The last stop before the garage's driveway was especially nerve wracking (rush hour, uphill road, please, please get in gear one more time!).
At least I didn't need a tow.

 

[SHOemup]

68style:
I have the same problem on my '94 MTX

I only have 40,000miles on the odo but last time I drove it (it sits most of the time hence the low mileage) it was REALLY hard to put into first after driving for awhile. Like.. really notchy.

One time I thought it wasn't even going to go in, I had to use a lot of force to get it in

I dunno what is wrong, I don't see how my clutch could be worn out with the mileage I have...

notchy! good word. Thats how to describe how it feels. thanks!

 

[Rob94]

Chris, how is she going into reverse?? If you aren't getting any grinding going from a forward gear to reverse, then it might be the blocking rings in the tranny. Either way isn't a cheap repair, but you really need to be sure what you are fixing before you fix it. FYI, 4 yrs ago I replaced my clutch and rebuilt my tranny, and 60k miles later everything is still just fine and dandy.

 

[clintonk]

My '95 is acting the same way; it's clutch time. To keep from not having to jam it into first at a stop, start applying light pressure while slowing down at about 10 mph. Somewhere around 4-8 mph it will slide right in. Of course, your leg will get rather tired if it's a long stoplight.

Clinton Knight
'90 White 183K
'95 Green 52K

 

[SHOemup]

I've always had trouble getting it into reverse. The car has 120K on it now and i bought it at about 90K and the only way i can constantly get it into reverse without it grinding it to go into 4th first. I'll figure this thing out. thanks for the help.
Chris

 

[BigSHO43213]

Try this... As you're driving down the road in any gear put it for example put it in 3rd and put the rpm's at 2500 and then punch it. If your cars rpm's increase but doesn't increase in speed then your clutch is going if not maybe some adjustments are required good luck

 

[Rob94]

Reverse is not synchronized. It is normal for it to grind going in. What I meant is, if you go from a forward gear, then reverse, is it smooth, or does it still grind?? Seriously, difficulty engaging 1 or 2 gears is NOT indicative of clutch failure. There are synchronizers and blocking rings that wear out differently for each gear. Either problem is expensive, by why just throw in a clutch if it isn't the clutch at all!?!?

 

[pittsburghsho]

Mine had the "notchy" feeling for a couple of months. 1st and 2nd were rough and 3-4-5 were fine. Then 2 weeks ago i was coasting in 2nd gear and the shifter popped out of gear and there was a metal grinding noise. The clutch is almost useless now, but it happenend without any warning. I just started out on a steep hill about 2 miles before and it felt fine. I thought the notchy feeling was from the almost gone motor and tranny mounts that are in my car but now I think is was something in the tranny.

 

[SHOMEUP]

Hey guys i have all the same symptoms- and tried this and it worked for me..its simple and no money so try it first.. theres a blue tab right behind the clutch pedal- push that tab until it clicks- it might clik once or twice depending on loose it is...this tab makes the cable tighter sloving ur issue about hard engaging... there was a time when i couldnt go into first and after i did this it was like butter... hope this helps- let me know if it worked for ne of you...

 

[pittsburghsho]

Do you push the blue tab toward the firewall or the seat?

SHOMEUP:
Hey guys i have all the same symptoms- and tried this and it worked for me..its simple and no money so try it first.. theres a blue tab right behind the clutch pedal- push that tab until it clicks- it might clik once or twice depending on loose it is...this tab makes the cable tighter sloving ur issue about hard engaging... there was a time when i couldnt go into first and after i did this it was like butter... hope this helps- let me know if it worked for ne of you...

 

[SHOMEUP]

Sorry i should have clearified- u push the tab upwards in the direction of ur dash.... its very hard to push- what i used is a socket with an extenstion and used the leverage from the wrench to push it up...if that helps...

 

[68style]

I just don't see how my clutch could be gone after only 60,000kms (whatever that is in miles)

Especially since an old man drove it before I got it 2,000kms ago. It still pulls really hard off lights, there's no slipping, and I can easily not just chirp into 2nd gear but actually spin the tires, so it's grabbing fine.

I also constantly get grinding in reverse even after shifting into forward gears.. it's really embarassing and it happens at least 7/10 times! Grrr!!!

<small>[ May 28, 2002, 07:00 PM: Message edited by: 68style ]</small>

 

[notstock]

68style:
I just don't see how my clutch could be gone after only 60,000kms (whatever that is in miles)

Especially since an old man drove it before I got it 2,000kms ago. It still pulls really hard off lights, there's no slipping, and I can easily not just chirp into 2nd gear but actually spin the tires, so it's grabbing fine.

I also constantly get grinding in reverse even after shifting into forward gears.. it's really embarassing and it happens at least 7/10 times! Grrr!!!

It's rarely the clutch that's gone, it almost always the pressure plate fingers that are worn through. I had maybe 30% of my fingers left (some wear so bad they bend and or break off if left too long) and at least 60% of my clutch was left....not even close to the rivets and still had the grooves cut in it. As they wear the TOB can't push the pressure plate as far in and consequently it doesn't fully disengage the clutch from the flywheel, which makes shifting a PIA. When you replace it get a ceramic coating TOB from ShoNut Performance. Smooth as silk (I can attest to that) and easier on the PP fingers (don't know that for sure yet since I just put it in 1,300 miles ago)

Kurt

 

[rfiltz]

Ditto with notstock. It's the TOB and plate, but still you will need to do a clutch job once you're in there. Most of the cost is labor just to get to the problem. Mine got so bad I had to shut the car OFF to get into first gear! Barely limped into the garage.

 

[Tillong]

What Package form SHOnut do you gurus recommend. I've been told the rear seal (as to what seal that refers to I have no the slightest idea) is a must to replace during a clutch job. Also I was planning on gettting a ceramic TOB. When I let the clutch out now it sounds like all **** is breaking loose, theres metal clinging noises, and some grinding kind of sounds. Not to mention the sticking break pedal and the sheer inability to push the clutch pedal sometimes really make the SHO a PIA to drive, but I've got the money to get all the work done now I hope all the problems go away.

Paul

 

[Rob94]

Rear seal=rear main seal....it's the seal for the rear of the crankshaft.

 

[fitefanSHO]

One thing I do to take some of the stress/wear off the clutch is shift sometimes in a syncronized way. What I mean is that I do not press the clutch to take it out of gear, only to put it in the next. You all know what I mean? There is a sweet spot there you can find and she will slide right outta gear and you can then press the clutch lightly and throw her in the next gear.

Hey, for all I know, it might not help but I'll tell you this: My 93 MTX SHO has 160K and she is only on her second clutch and she hauls ass...

Plus I baby her and don't beat on her. Too many younger SHO owners beat their cars up and wonder why they have so many problems. Drive her within her means and she will never let you down. Start treating it like a Porsche, and, well...you get the picture.

FitefanSHO
93 Black on Black MTX SHO

Honda Civic Owners shoot

 

[Tillong]

When having the clutch done, is that also a good time to have the tranny drained and refilled?

Paul