Two new issues - door lock and rust!

[RichInMich]

This would be funny if it were happening to someone else, but it's not...

My '13 SHO PP visited a dealer for the 4th time last week to fix a few more long-term issues I had been having with her. Almost immediately after picking it up, though, a new problem cropped up. (Sidebar: every time I've taken it into this particular dealer, a new issue has presented itself after the service work was performed).

New issue is that now, intermittently, the driver door's power lock will not unlock. Doesn't matter if I use the keyfob or the door security code panel input, the three other doors unlock but the driver door does not. I've tried everything I can think of (locking it again and unlocking it, or punching in my code on the door panel) but it refuses to unlock. Only two things will unlock the door - the physical key inside the keyfob (has to be extracted from the keyfob and then inserted into the keyhole on the door), or someone else inside the car has to reach over and pull the interior door handle to unlock it. The locking stalk doesn't appear to be stuck, it freely moves up and down with no catch whatsoever.

Second issue: just discovered a spot of rust on my trunk, just under the Ford emblem and rear back up camera.

Looks like I have some more service dept visits in my future. This car has only 34k miles, too.

 

[Orguss]

I noticed from another thread you posted that you have problems with corrosion.

 

[SHOdded]

Could be a problem with the springs in the door latch/lock. There's a TSB out on it, the dealer should check all 4 for integrity and replace as needed.

15S02: FIELD SERVICE ACTION - recall involves 2010 to 2013 model years of the Ford Taurus and Lincoln MKS. Ford says a door latch spring can become unseated, allowing the door to unlatch in a side-impact crash. The company says it knows of no injuries from the problem. Dealers will inspect the latches and replace door handles if needed.

As far as the corrosion issue, very rare to hear of this. Peeling chrome/taillights, sure! Hopefully a paint job will take care of it easily.

 

[RichInMich]

Interesting you say that, SHOdded - I did have a recall on the door handle mechanisms performed earlier this year (14S04). They ended up performing 15S02 as a result. This was the beginning of March, and I haven't had any issues until just now. It's related to the door handles, not the power lock mechanism - could this somehow be related?

 

[RichInMich]

I assume that corrosion on the body is covered under the 100k mile rust warranty - or the 36k bumper to bumper. We'll find out soon, as I'm going to be taking it back in. I suspect that the emblem is trapping water on top of it and then it seeps down later slowly and causes the corrosion. I can't see the back side of the rust spot, because the trunk liner is in the way, so I don't know how deep it goes. It's bubbling the surrounding paint, though.

The other corrosion I had (wire harness under the passenger seat) - not sure how that happened. My car's interior is meticulously clean! Only thing I can think of is that there was a problem with my sunroof drain lines when I first bought the car, and the water would pool up in the passenger side foot well. It must've gone under the seat as well.

 

[SHOdded]

I dunno about the power lock mechanism. Since a physical touch opens the door, it could be any number of electrical issues, including a worn car battery. Check to see if there is any moisture in the rubber boot that encloses the wiring between the door (all of them) and the main body of the car. May have to go so far as to take off the door panel to check.

Corrosion warranty is perforation only after the B2B is over (sad, I know). Are you sure the SHO wasn't flooded out at some point?

 

[RichInMich]

I bought it as a dealer demo, with 5800 miles on it. If it was flooded out, it wasn't indicated that way on the title or purchase documents.

As for the worn car battery, I'm skeptical on that one since the other 3 doors always open just fine. I also drive 80-100 miles a day with no low-battery issues seen.

I don't believe in coincidences, this all started right after my most recent service visit, so I am really trying to nail down what they could've done that could've caused this. The fault (door not unlocking) is happening with shocking regularity now (I'd say at least once a day now), where it never (not even once!) happened before my visit.

 

[SHOdded]

Totally agree.

 

[roger smith]

If you have put your locks in the moisture , it will surely going to rust. Also once it rusted the best way is to replace the lock by hiring a locksmith or do its coating with some paint or oil so that it will not come in contact with the rust again and place the lock at moisture free place.

 

[rubydist]

it is hard to believe it is coincidence, but it is.

the problem is most likely a bad door actuator or bad connection to the actuator in the driver's door. unless they had the driver's door interior panel off, the dealer tech did nothing to cause this.

 

[Pintony]

Ahhhhh...... Michigan Rust......

This would be funny if it were happening to someone else, but it's not...

My '13 SHO PP visited a dealer for the 4th time last week to fix a few more long-term issues I had been having with her. Almost immediately after picking it up, though, a new problem cropped up. (Sidebar: every time I've taken it into this particular dealer, a new issue has presented itself after the service work was performed).

New issue is that now, intermittently, the driver door's power lock will not unlock. Doesn't matter if I use the keyfob or the door security code panel input, the three other doors unlock but the driver door does not. I've tried everything I can think of (locking it again and unlocking it, or punching in my code on the door panel) but it refuses to unlock. Only two things will unlock the door - the physical key inside the keyfob (has to be extracted from the keyfob and then inserted into the keyhole on the door), or someone else inside the car has to reach over and pull the interior door handle to unlock it. The locking stalk doesn't appear to be stuck, it freely moves up and down with no catch whatsoever.

Second issue: just discovered a spot of rust on my trunk, just under the Ford emblem and rear back up camera.

Looks like I have some more service dept visits in my future. This car has only 34k miles, too.

 

[DZ SHO]

Sorry to revive a super old thread, but this morning my driver door power lock also stopped working. All others operate fine. When pressing the lock button while sitting in the car, I do not hear any clicking from the driver door...

 

[SHOdded]

Does the door latch recall apply to your vehicle? Check on owner.ford.com. That would be a paid-for scenario.

Otherwise try spraying heavily into the door latch with MAF sensor cleaner/electrical parts cleaner. The angle is important to maximize coverage. Empty the whole can into it if you want. It is not a permanent fix, but may last for a while.

 

[DZ SHO]

I'll look into the recall. Mine is a 2014.

But I just went to lunch and everything worked fine... I got gremlins. Or maybe the 10 degree weather could be a factor

 

[Majestic]

It's the actuator/latch going bad. It will eventually stop working at all. I replaced mine but could not get the key rod reattached. I hope my battery never goes dead