I've been asked to reply to this so I'll do my best...
As long as you understand physically what needs to be done to the car (IE: fuel, timing, etc) then all it takes is learning the interface. To add to that, if you already understand the basics of what I said above, the interface is almost self explanatory (the main stuff needed to tune).
I first looked at the TwEECer and had a hard time picking where to start when tuning. I basically knew what the car needed, but was unsure of how I should go about it with the TwEECer. I was proficient enough in about a month or so to tune my car and go beat the crap out of it. The second time around (tuning for the blower), it took all of two tries to get the car to a safe tune to run the **** out of it. It is not completely tuned by any means (just running out of energy on these cars), but it's making 455 reliable horsepower (aside from the crankcase evac kit) and I have fun with it. Aside from the main seal squirting oil out, I was more comfortable with taking my blower SHO on a long road trip than my stock SHO.
If you give yourself some time, PATIENCE, and the willingness to read, you'll get it in no time and then you'll have people inquiring you about how to tune their car.
To help you understand you amp situation.... Think of it like this. Think of the coil on you speaker like a water pipe. If the pipe were 1" (we'll call this 4 ohms) in diameter and you try and push a given amount of water through it, you're fighting the resistance of the pipes (coil) ability to flow the water (power). If you open that pipe up to a 2" (2 ohms) diameter, you can now flow more water through there. Basically, you're making it easier for the amp to push power through the speaker's coils. In turn, the amp is running harder producing more power (making it run hotter and giving more power to the speaker to convert into sound electromagnetic/transducer).
Basically you're making it easier for the amp to push power through the coil.