turbos vs N2O failure rates

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NovaSS

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I see all the post of guys getting 400 plus HP out of a stock long block with turbos or blowers but I also see tons of post about N20 failures with anything over 75 HP .

Why the higher failure rate with N2O on the SHO? Is it because people run dry systems and the injectors max out and it runs lean? Or maybe no igntion retard at higher levels?
 

masho95

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I haven't heard of too many N2O failures... perhaps you are talking about the wet kits that aren't suitable for SHO's because they "pool" fuel in the intake. And IIRC the stock injectors won't max out even with 100hp shot in there. That's what jets are currently in my system.
 

Toolman

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It is all about the tune. Tune it safe, and you will have a long lasting engine. I think the failure rates with N20 have more to do with people wanting cheap HP, and not modifying other areas of the car to support the N20. The same will happen with a turbo. You have to pay to play, and if you don't get the proper supporting mods you are simply driving a ticking time bomb (some would say that describes any SHO, but I digress).
 

1slickRED89

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never mind the usual maintenance and mechanical related failures, based on my experience (more with boost than N20), there are only a few things that can **** an power-adder engine. since boost and N20 really do the same thing, add oxygen to the mix (albeit in different ways), the symptoms of failure are the same. also any power-adder engine should run the highest octane fuel they can get, or run a detonation suppressant like water/alky injection, so this is not a factor in my mind.

1. going lean and getting it started knocking/detonating (audible or not) and chipping the edge of the piston, I think most N20 and turbo failures we see on this forum fall into this category, whether they admit to it or not. this is a tuning and fuel supply issue.

2. running something too hot, like a spark plug that is too hot a heat range, preigniting it, and melting a piston or exhaust valve.

to counteract item #1 you need a wide band O2 sensor and make sure you run sufficiently 'enriched' to prevent from going lean, that includes having a fuel system that will keep up. the cure for #2 is more dicey, of course you can start tuning with a really cold spark plug, but sometimes metal burrs or built up carbon can cause preignition, its a hard one to pin down because you really have to be pushing hard to preignite an safe, but high powered, engine combination. true preignition is very sporadic in nature.
 
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