Turbo removal and replacement direction or tips and tricks

[Mike67]

I'm in the process of R&R my turbos for the GH turbos and read a few places on some tips and tricks but nothing complete. I have the DP off the front and wanting to know about the oil lines and turbo to manifold sequences. Is there a thread or link for R&R? Getting the rad and intercooler out wasn't the easiest, super tight. Love my women like that but not my car tin getting things out and in. Ford likes their clips that hold the harnesses in. Ended up destroying most of them.

I have an O2 sensor socket but it seems like the wires are too long to use it. What has everyone else used to get them out?

 

[Jordan_R]

Unhook o2 sensors and just feed the plug down with the downpipe. You can take them out with the sensors in tact.. Well I did... lol. Firewall turbo take out passenger axle and fender liner and work from there. Oil feed line will be last thing you do on firewall turbo. Front turbo should be mostly accessible from the top/bottom without having to fool with the radiator stuff much. Be sure to back flow your oil feed lines also as they have screen in them that car get gunked apparently. If you have troubles getting the oil feed lines off you can always take them off at the block also.

Oh also when you do the passenger axle there is a bracket that bolts to the block that you can remove for some extra wiggle room.

 

[Mike67]

Thanks, Jordan!

 

[Mike67]

Backflow oil feed meaning air gun? What pressure? My Car just turned 14k bought it with 10.5 k and change oil to Mobile 1 Extended going Amsoil Signature Series next and life of the car unless some advises something different/better so hopefully not to gunked up yet.

 

[Mike67]

I'm a little confused about the screens, doesn't the oil feed come from a line after the filter? Maybe they junk up from not using synthetic oils and not changing it enough?

 

[Mike67]

Should I hone the exhaust manifold to turbo? looks like a choking point

 

[Mike67]

Looks like the port on the turbo is larger, it would be awesome if we could buy manifolds port matched with the turbo housing port.

 

[Mike67]

Anti-seize on the bolts and nuts or does it just burn off?

 

[yaycandy]

I had mine honed out where the turbo fits to it and ported to match the heads. Never dyno'd and was also done with a new engine.

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Anti-seize on the bolts and nuts or does it just burn off?

150,000,000,000,000% use anti-seize. Always, always, always use anti-seize on exhaust bolts....

 

[76FoMoCo]

the screens are in the oil feed line right at the turbo. As Jordan said take the back axle half shaft out and leave the stub shaft in place. This keeps from having trans fluid all over and the turbo will come out.

 

[GotGrip?]

150,000,000,000,000% use anti-seize. Always, always, always use anti-seize on exhaust bolts....

So not JB weld?

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

So not JB weld?

Oh you can use that just fine, just make sure you use anti-seize with it...


lol

 

[Mike67]

Thank you everyone for the pointers, I have to buy a 32mm socket for the axle nut. That shut me down last night which was a good thing since it was midnight and I had to work this AM. Dang I'm freaking tired!!

What are the steps/procedures for getting the outer axle out? Do I need to disconnect the strut from the wheel hub spindle to get the axle out? If so, I might as well do the H&R springs also. I'm assuming that there's an inner and outer axle that couple up in the bracket/bearing that bolts to the block as Jordan mentioned.

I thought my Volvo S80 was a bitch to access the turbo and DP, had to take the fake firewall and ECM out. This is way worse. IDK what the Ford engineers were thinking. Now you know why it cost so much to have the dealer or any other shop work on the rear turbo.

 

[76FoMoCo]

I just undid the lower ball joint and use a large ass pry bar to get it out of the knuckle. this way I didn't need an alignment. if you leave the axle nut flush with the end of the thread when you hammer on it does help with not messing the threads up trying to get it out of the knuckle. as for getting the outer half shaft out of the stub shaft 2 pry bars on the cup to shaft and it pops out as it's just a C clip and splines. the oil feed line and coolant line on the back turbo I had to do from the top as I didn't have the clip tool to get it out of the block.

 

[Mike67]

Ok, I can't get the strut bolts out of the knuckle. Soaked with PB Blaster, max psi on air impact, huge breaker bar with pipe extension and my 195lbs ass putting all my weight and bouncing down on it. Oh and jack under the control arm

Is there something I'm missing? The last thing before i can get the axle out.

I'm also going to install H&Rs so just prying the control arm down won't do it plus it would allow the strut to move.

 

[Mike67]

Yep I was missing something
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/front-struts-swap-out.139419/

 

[76FoMoCo]

Ya they are splined

 

[Mike67]

Is it possible to remove the rear and front trans mount and pull the motor forward away from the firewall to get better access to the rear turbo? I removed the electrical connectors for the e-power steering which gave me a little more room from underneath.

 

[Jordan_R]

Is it possible to remove the rear and front trans mount and pull the motor forward away from the firewall to get better access to the rear turbo? I removed the electrical connectors for the e-power steering which gave me a little more room from underneath.

The engine and upper trans mount would still hold it in place pretty well. You can loosen sub frame bolts some though to get a little bit more room