MerkXRTurbo
New Member
But the pressure gauge on my A/C filler never rises. My only guess is that it's leaking out as fast as it's going in. Any ideas on how a DIYer can find leaks?
Trying to refill A/C
- Thread starter MerkXRTurbo
- Start date
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SuperHO
Mental Patient
Is the can emptying, and is the compressor clutch engaging?
MerkXRTurbo
New Member
I think the clutch is engaging. The idle seems to change a teeny tiny bit when I turn on the A/C. I honestly dunno if the can is actually emptying. You can't hear it with the engine running.
The can will get noticably lighter when its empty. If its leaking out that fast, you should hear it escaping even with the engine running. On the other hand, if the compressor isn't engaged, it won't let much of any into the system, so you will just stand there all day...
SuperHO
Mental Patient
when you have the AC on, you should be able to look down on the front of the AC pulley and see the clutch engaging. Also, when you're connecting the hose, make sure you push against the connection while pressing the button. There's a fine line between filling the system and just pressing a button.
Tecchie
SHO Member
How about if your gauge reads 80PSI on the low side? lol My AC has never worked..
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
If your low side gauge reads 80 Psi then that means your AC is not turning on. The low side will equal the high side if the compressor hasn't been on in a while. If you're putting it on MAX AC and the pressure reading isn't going down at all on the low side, then either the clutch on the compressor is fried (or, much more likely, out of spec for gapping and just needs re-shimmed) or the compressor cycling switch is bad. Jumper the switch (search for how to do this; it's different for ATX and MTX) and see if the clutch engages. Report back and we'll tell you how to go from there...
Tecchie
SHO Member
Tried the cycle switch, there is continuity on the switch itself I test both connector blades (on the wire) with a multimeter to see the voltage and it's around 5v for both sides (from the connector blade insert thinggie to the positive terminal on battery)
Checked pressure again it's around 65PSI... at the end of the yellow marks close to the red.... I think when it was 80 it was a really hot day and I had been driving for awhile...
Tried to jumper the wire harness (close to the firewall where it plugs into the evap I think?) (plugs into the black can thing, plug is kinda wide) and there is not even a "click" sound at all, so I Am not sure what's up with it...
I need to get the heater core replaced anyways, so....
1995 ATX 208k+ on clock
Checked pressure again it's around 65PSI... at the end of the yellow marks close to the red.... I think when it was 80 it was a really hot day and I had been driving for awhile...
Tried to jumper the wire harness (close to the firewall where it plugs into the evap I think?) (plugs into the black can thing, plug is kinda wide) and there is not even a "click" sound at all, so I Am not sure what's up with it...
I need to get the heater core replaced anyways, so....
1995 ATX 208k+ on clock
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Ok, as long as you made sure to jumper the harness side, not the sensor side, then that means the clutch is either FUBARd or mis-gapped.
Try, with the AC on MAX, whacking the A/C clutch face (that would be the part of the compressor pulley that *isn't* rotating) with a broom handle or other such whacking device. Take care not to get it caught in the belt. If the clutch suddenly and magically engages, you need to reshim the clutch (or just replace it as they do wear over time).
Try, with the AC on MAX, whacking the A/C clutch face (that would be the part of the compressor pulley that *isn't* rotating) with a broom handle or other such whacking device. Take care not to get it caught in the belt. If the clutch suddenly and magically engages, you need to reshim the clutch (or just replace it as they do wear over time).
gas it
SHO Member
Could be the clutch plate has a broken rubber dampner. It will look like the clutch is engauged but the actual compressor shaft is not turning.
Tecchie
SHO Member
AC was on MAX thwe whole time I was testing...
No noise came from it at any time... I think I might replace the whole thing anyways as the heater core needs replacing and my BDA needs repairing.. gonna have a guy around my area do it... Someone told me he's really reasonable and charged WAY better than a fair price...
Anyways, my other Taurus (96) the AC will cycle off even though the pressure switch is closed (to turn it on) until the thing blows hot air for about 30 minutes..... not sure why.... tried to disconnect the pressure switch on it and the power steering pully tried to bite the back of my hand.. that hurt.. more like a scrape/burn mark on my hand now.. hahaa will mess with it later..
Tested pressure when everything was hot and AC cut was 65psi. (on my 96 that is.. Vulcan)
No noise came from it at any time... I think I might replace the whole thing anyways as the heater core needs replacing and my BDA needs repairing.. gonna have a guy around my area do it... Someone told me he's really reasonable and charged WAY better than a fair price...
Anyways, my other Taurus (96) the AC will cycle off even though the pressure switch is closed (to turn it on) until the thing blows hot air for about 30 minutes..... not sure why.... tried to disconnect the pressure switch on it and the power steering pully tried to bite the back of my hand.. that hurt.. more like a scrape/burn mark on my hand now.. hahaa will mess with it later..
Tested pressure when everything was hot and AC cut was 65psi. (on my 96 that is.. Vulcan)
Tecchie
SHO Member
So yeah, I know there is a minimum required, it's full.
I don't understand your logic.
My A/C compressor in the SHO won't even click on, I might have to adjust the clutch..
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
It's like it's 2009 all over again! 
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