Trouble Reading Codes

[SuperG]

Following up on a code 332, I do the little paper clip thingy and perform the KOER test (but will do the KOEO test next time, first) and after I hit the gas, to start the diagnostic, 2 things happen. First, the CE Light flashes at regular intervals with what I counted as 8 flashes. It did this many times. Second, after the series of 8 flashes, the engine dies.

I will do this again today, since the car is running again (broke the PS Fluid Reservoir when I changed the fluid!) in order to get an exact account of what is happening.

Any comments?

 

[sdpatt]

Follow the first link at the bottom of my signature to see what the test procedure and expaected output should be. You should find it very helpful.

 

[projectSHO89]

Do start from the beginning and run the KOEO test first.

Is it possible that you are getting 9 flashes instead of 8? If so, you have entered into the cylinder balance test. I can find nothing that would cause a 8 code to be displayed.

As for the 332 error, search on 332 and my user number to find a diagnostic for that one before jumping into it.

Steve

 

[SuperG]

Thanks, guys...you know, maybe it was 9 pulses...

Well, anyway, I'll try again later today and let you know what happened.

Last month, I removed the TB and cleaned the nostrils in the intake, but I did not remove the nut near the EGR Valve. Do you think I did enough to clean, or should I tackle that again?

Steve, I definitely am using your list...thanks!

In the meantime, I think I will simply go and get the 1 DPFE in stock at Autozone...$50, so what?

 

[projectSHO89]

$50, so what?

Well, let's see... how about 3 cases of Bud Light instead?....

beer

Steve

 

[SuperG]

I used to measure potential purchases in beer...now I do it in Martinis, so that's about 10!

OK...here's the deal. I ran the test and this is what happened:

1) Ran KOEO Test Codes 118 and 122 (hmmm, no 332 like the tranny shop said?)

2) Ran KOER Test - 3 blips, 998 118 122, 998 118 122. I did not turn the wheel etc, then ran again and turned the wheel etc resulting in same blips, no single blip...

So, what's up? Steve, an earlier post you hinted at a procedure to test the ECT, but heck if I can find it. Where is the ECT, anyway?

Also, what does it mean for 122 - TP low (possibly grounded or open circuit) - What do I need to do?

Guess I can return the DPFE and get some Vodka, Vermouth, and a few other items, huh? Or perhaps I should wait to see if I need to buy some other stuff!

Thanks for the help!

<small>[ July 10, 2003, 08:30 PM: Message edited by: SuperG ]</small>

 

[projectSHO89]

For the location of the ECT sensor, see http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=005307#000002

Testing the ECT is included in my post in this thread: http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=005071

998 is not a valid code. Don't know why you're getting it since I don't know if you are performing the test correctly and interpreting the results properly.

The 118 and 122 codes indicate either 1) both sensors are bad or 2) either the ground or reference voltage to them is missing or 3) one of the sensors/wires is shorted to ground. Time to dig out the meter and the schematic.

Steve

 

[SuperG]

Thanks, Steve...basically, I turn the car on and a few seconds later the 998 shows up.

<small>[ July 10, 2003, 10:18 PM: Message edited by: SuperG ]</small>

 

[TYSHO]

998 = Hard Fault - FMEM MODE

Basically this code in my Ford diagostic book says to use this book to properly diagnose your continous codes. I'm assuming you misinformed us on your KOEO test. Did you get 1 flicker...code 111 twice...long pause...1 flicker...codes 118 and 122?

If you want your problem fixed, please reply as there is 'very' many reasons to what can be throwing those codes.

<small>[ July 11, 2003, 06:58 AM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[projectSHO89]

Doh! I just looked on the dalidesign site for the 998. Here's what it says:

998 (R) Did not pass Key On Engine Off test yet (Get 111 in KOEO first)


Sorry about the oversight and jumping the gun

Looking up the 998 in the 95 PCED, it lists the following for WHEN the 998 is received:

Application:
All
Key On Engine Off:
«TC10»

Key On Engine Running:
Refer to these EEC-IV DTC Charts for direction to diagnose the Continuous DTC received during

Key On Engine Off Self-Test.
Continuous Memory:
Refer to these EEC-IV DTC Charts for direction to diagnose the Continuous DTC received during Key On Engine Off Self-Test.

Subroutine TC10 is a test of solenoids in the ATX

Once again, the context in which a code is received will determine how it must be interpreted. Good luck and follow the testing directions exactly. If you skip something or miss a step, you can get results that will send you in circles.

Steve

 

[SuperG]

Hmmm...I performed the KOEO test first, then turned the engine on and got those results.

This morning I went back and did it again. First the KOEO Test:

Key On
Fan activated
Fuel Pump activated
Fast Flicker
118
122
Flash
118
122

According to the instructions from MidWest SHO, the light was supposed to flicker first...

Then I started the engine KOER:
3 blinks
998 (no engine rev increase)
118
122
998
118
122
2000 rpm by itself
nearly died
then CE light was on

Then I turned the car off, waited, turned it back on for another KOER test:
3 blinks
pressed brake, turned wheel, turned O/D off
998 (no engine rev increase, again)
118
122
998
118
122
2000 rpm by itself
Engine died

What am I doing wrong?

 

[TYSHO]

I'm taking it that your 118 and 122 are memory codes regardless or the 998 KOER DTC would'nt pop up saying to service the memroy codes first if there is none. 998 has nothing to do with no engine rev that you talk of, so do you have your self a Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Service Manual? If not, I can guide you through, be it by this thread or email.

 

[SuperG]

I'm afraid I do not have a Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Service Manual...

I am at a loss...I appreciate the help!

 

[projectSHO89]

You have to get a PASS on the KOEO test before running the KOER test. Failure to do so will invalidate the KOER test results.

You will have to fix the 118 and 122 codes first.

Do you have a multimeter? How soon do you want/need the car fixed?

Steve

 

[TYSHO]

Here's some causes, KOEO:

118 - Open in harness (ECT), faulty connection, faulty sensor, or faulty power train module (PCM or known as the computer).

122 - TP sensor might not be seated properly (tighten down), damaged TP sensor, open harness, grounded harness, or damaged PCM.

<small>[ July 11, 2003, 07:39 PM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[SuperG]

Man, you guys...thanks for all the help! I will work on the car today. I will check all the connections first.

I assume the multimeter is to check for electrical conductivity?

What does "open in harness" mean? And how do I test these to determine what the problem is?

<small>[ July 12, 2003, 02:25 PM: Message edited by: SuperG ]</small>

 

[TYSHO]

I don't want to jump the gun on that question, being I'm not for sure, but I'd think it basically means the connection is 'unplugged'. Hopefully Steve or someone else can confirm or correct my statement.

<small>[ July 12, 2003, 06:41 PM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[SuperG]

I didn't think about it before, but both codes show a probable PCM malfunction. However, if the computer wasn't working properly, I would have to assume there would be more codes...do you suppose that is correct reasoning.

The only thing I can think of doing at this point is to replace the sensors.

 

[projectSHO89]

Do not jump to the conclusion that the problem is the PCM. So far, it is only a low-priority possibility. There are other, higher probability cause which need to be explored first.

The following assumes you have a multimeter and know how to use it. If this assumption is too generous, go find someone to make the tests for you. Report the results back here for analysis unless you feel you are qualified to interpret them.

1) Disconnect the plugs to the following: DPFE sensor, TPS, and ECT sensor.

2) Turn ignition switch to RUN.

3) At the TPS connector, measure DC voltage (negative lead to ground) at the pin that has the BROWN/WHITE wire connected to it. Report reading. Expected reading should be +5VDC +/- 0.5 or so

4) Repeat # 3 at the DPFE connector.

5) At the ECT connector, measure DC voltage at the pin that has the GRAY/RED wire. Report the results. Expected value should be 12-13 VDC.

Steve

<small>[ July 14, 2003, 11:05 AM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>

 

[SuperG]

Thanks,Steve...will do after work and I will report the results...

In the meantime, I called AZ and the prices for the TP Sensor is $19 and the ECT Sensor is $17...not bad.

<small>[ July 14, 2003, 11:39 AM: Message edited by: SuperG ]</small>