Trans temp

[Sho_boatIV]

Hey guys, I took a look at my trans fluid and noticed it was starting to go brown but smell burnt but runs solid still, I did a drain and fill and noticed my temps were running high after a 30 min drive on the highway (70-80mph on a 80 degree day) I arrived with temps at 205 which normally I’ve never gone above 190 with the gh tune, been thinking back and forth with myself on a fluid flush vs another drain and fill, what would be the best route?

 

[802SHO]

Be careful not to overfill it. It expands obviously when it’s hot and if there’s too much in there it might cause a slight temp increase. However you want to overfill it about a pint, under WOT it could slightly delay a shift, the fluid is there but it doesn’t build the clamping force fast enough, by intentionally adding a little more it appears to remedy that. Always be careful adding new fluid back in, check the dipstick a lot, take the time to get it just perfect…….then add another pint.

You want the fluid to come out looking brand new, bright red, when you think you’re wasting your money and throwing away new fluid you’re in the sweet spot. With our transmission, you get out what you put in, there’s no limit to how much you can love it, but the more you love it and take care of it, it seems to not need anything. Like watering a plant, the more you take care of it the longer it lives without issues.

Drain and fill, it’s pretty easy right? Do it 2 more times, maybe just space it out a couple days in between. After a total of 3 it’s said to be as good as any flush. Flushes run a risk of causing issues rather than remedies.

 

[kryptto]

Hey guys, I took a look at my trans fluid and noticed it was starting to go brown but smell burnt but runs solid still, I did a drain and fill and noticed my temps were running high after a 30 min drive on the highway (70-80mph on a 80 degree day) I arrived with temps at 205 which normally I’ve never gone above 190 with the gh tune, been thinking back and forth with myself on a fluid flush vs another drain and fill, what would be the best route?

You running a PP?

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[Sho_boatIV]

Be careful not to overfill it. It expands obviously when it’s hot and if there’s too much in there it might cause a slight temp increase. However you want to overfill it about a pint, under WOT it could slightly delay a shift, the fluid is there but it doesn’t build the clamping force fast enough, by intentionally adding a little more it appears to remedy that. Always be careful adding new fluid back in, check the dipstick a lot, take the time to get it just perfect…….then add another pint.

You want the fluid to come out looking brand new, bright red, when you think you’re wasting your money and throwing away new fluid you’re in the sweet spot. With our transmission, you get out what you put in, there’s no limit to how much you can love it, but the more you love it and take care of it, it seems to not need anything. Like watering a plant, the more you take care of it the longer it lives without issues.

Drain and fill, it’s pretty easy right? Do it 2 more times, maybe just space it out a couple days in between. After a total of 3 it’s said to be as good as any flush. Flushes run a risk of causing issues rather than remedies.

I’ll try 2 more times draining then filling this upcoming week then for sure, I haven’t heard of overfilling with a pint before but will do so, a good amount of fluid came out before but looks like it didn’t do the trick just yet but still would rather pay for the fluids and take some time doing it then paying for a new trans, thank you for the proper insight!

 

[Sho_boatIV]

You running a PP?

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No just a non pp 2012

 

[BradM]

FYI. I'm running a PI (which has the SHO PP) and a AJP tune and have never seen trans temps above 180 while running in the low 12's at the strip.

 

[76FoMoCo]

I use a bucket with pint marks on it so I know just how much came out. Then just put in the same.

 

[kryptto]

No just a non pp 2012

So no separate transmission oil to air cooling, just through the radiator is why I ask.

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[Texas Marauder]

So no separate transmission oil to air cooling, just through the radiator is why I ask.

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All transmission cooling is oil to air. No connection to the radiator. Regular SHO has one cooler at the top of the A/C condenser, PP and PI have two, one on the condenser and one in front of the condenser.

 

[kryptto]

Thank you for the correction.

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[Sho_boatIV]

Be careful not to overfill it. It expands obviously when it’s hot and if there’s too much in there it might cause a slight temp increase. However you want to overfill it about a pint, under WOT it could slightly delay a shift, the fluid is there but it doesn’t build the clamping force fast enough, by intentionally adding a little more it appears to remedy that. Always be careful adding new fluid back in, check the dipstick a lot, take the time to get it just perfect…….then add another pint.

You want the fluid to come out looking brand new, bright red, when you think you’re wasting your money and throwing away new fluid you’re in the sweet spot. With our transmission, you get out what you put in, there’s no limit to how much you can love it, but the more you love it and take care of it, it seems to not need anything. Like watering a plant, the more you take care of it the longer it lives without issues.

Drain and fill, it’s pretty easy right? Do it 2 more times, maybe just space it out a couple days in between. After a total of 3 it’s said to be as good as any flush. Flushes run a risk of causing issues rather than remedies.

So big update on this: I did another drain and fill (fluid dark but had red hue) and filled all six quarts and measured a pint and added in. I proceeded to drive the car for another week and the temps have not settled out. Then, this past Saturday I went to merge onto the highway and the trans slipped at about 30mph, I coasted then got on throttle and it shifted and drove fine rest of the 25 min drive. Pulling into my driveway temps were 210degrees and checked fluid with no issue on level or color however it still smelled burnt. Could this be clutch pack or torque converter? All the help is appreciated!

 

[802SHO]

The clutch packs are definitely burnt, it’s an inevitable event bc of the poorly designed valve body in conjunction with Ford’s poorly advised service interval. Everyone’s clutches are likely burnt a bit but also converter slip resembles a clutch slip. How many miles on it?

Changing the fluid again can only help subside symptoms. What are your goals with the car? Changing the fluid more often may just float you by.

 

[kryptto]

So big update on this: I did another drain and fill (fluid dark but had red hue) and filled all six quarts and measured a pint and added in. I proceeded to drive the car for another week and the temps have not settled out. Then, this past Saturday I went to merge onto the highway and the trans slipped at about 30mph, I coasted then got on throttle and it shifted and drove fine rest of the 25 min drive. Pulling into my driveway temps were 210degrees and checked fluid with no issue on level or color however it still smelled burnt. Could this be clutch pack or torque converter? All the help is appreciated!

SO my experiences are not representative of others of course, my transmission was fully replaced by Ford during warranty.

My car under 11k the transmission started to fail. I didnt know what the temps were at that point, I wasnt monitoring it. Very similar to you - started to slip between 2 and 3 - then 1st to 2nd, basically after they tried a rebuild, I burned the rebuild up 50 miles out of the garage. Bottom line, look for a replacement - if close to warranty or under extended - get it replaced.

 

[Sho_boatIV]

The clutch packs are definitely burnt, it’s an inevitable event bc of the poorly designed valve body in conjunction with Ford’s poorly advised service interval. Everyone’s clutches are likely burnt a bit but also converter slip resembles a clutch slip. How many miles on it?

Changing the fluid again can only help subside symptoms. What are your goals with the car? Changing the fluid more often may just float you by.

I’ve had the car roughly 3 years and now sitting at 117k miles, it’s been a great car other than this issue. I’ve been tuned for 6 months and ran totally fine I think this was just a case of it being a time bomb. I’m trying to make it last another 75-200k miles. I’m going to take it in sometime this week. I went ahead and flashed back to stock to be on the safe side.

 

[Sho_boatIV]

SO my experiences are not representative of others of course, my transmission was fully replaced after Ford during warranty.

My car under 11k the transmission started to fail. I didnt know what the temps were at that point, I wasnt monitoring it. Very similar to you - started to slip between 2 and 3 - then 1st to 2nd, basically after they tried a rebuild, I burned the rebuild up 50 miles out of the garage. Bottom line, look for a replacement - if close to warranty or under extended - get it replaced.

It’s probably gonna get torn through and rebuilt, considering I commute 30 mins to and from for work I need it to be solid. What happened to your rebuild?

 

[kryptto]

It’s probably gonna get torn through and rebuilt, considering I commute 30 mins to and from for work I need it to be solid. What happened to your rebuild?

Ford cheap dealership rebuild. Whatever they did - didnt work. PLUS I had a transaxle pull loose from the transmission. I got lucky, back then when Diablo Sport was its own company down here HQ in Boca Raton, I loaded their "dyno" tune. I didnt know the computers in our car kept the recounts for updates, however was very fortunate to complain that I had a rough idle from day one, so their techs kept reloading the tune from Ford. So it covered up my flashing.

I meander in my thoughts, so I had open tickets with Diablo at the time, I had really rough shifts with their tune, (felt like they were slamming shifts) and truly believe it lead to the demise of my transmission. One of the asks from my current tuner - lets not push the transmission - stay in the safe ranges. I dont have any tracks near my home any longer - only one closed down to street racers.

I lodged and opened a ticket with Ford corp - complained I wanted a regional repair manager to look into replacing my tran, and got one from Detroit.

It has been solid since - however I have ZERO faith in Ford dealership repairs, I would find a reliable shop that knows and works on Ecoboost - or turbo engines. However I do know many cars are turbo charged nowadays.

PS - SO to answer your question what happened to my rebuild.... I am very friendly with a local shop that a couple of us use locally. I was told that the guys doing warranty work - DO NOT get paid the same as doing non warranty work. So my guy who had to rip out my transmission and replace parts - wanted to "get it done" and get it out the door. He/She could be making more money on non warranty work. It is the narrative I like to believe.

 

[Sho_boatIV]

Ford cheap dealership rebuild. Whatever they did - didnt work. PLUS I had a transaxle pull loose from the transmission. I got lucky, back then when Diablo Sport was its own company down here HQ in Boca Raton, I loaded their "dyno" tune. I didnt know the computers in our car kept the recounts for updates, however was very fortunate to complain that I had a rough idle from day one, so their techs kept reloading the tune from Ford. So it covered up my flashing.

I meander in my thoughts, so I had open tickets with Diablo at the time, I had really rough shifts with their tune, (felt like they were slamming shifts) and truly believe it lead to the demise of my transmission. One of the asks from my current tuner - lets not push the transmission - stay in the safe ranges. I dont have any tracks near my home any longer - only one closed down to street racers.

I lodged and opened a ticket with Ford corp - complained I wanted a regional repair manager to look into replacing my tran, and got one from Detroit.

It has been solid since - however I have ZERO faith in Ford dealership repairs, I would find a reliable shop that knows and works on Ecoboost - or turbo engines. However I do know many cars are turbo charged nowadays.

PS - SO to answer your question what happened to my rebuild.... I am very friendly with a local shop that a couple of us use locally. I was told that the guys doing warranty work - DO NOT get paid the same as doing non warranty work. So my guy who had to rip out my transmission and replace parts - wanted to "get it done" and get it out the door. He/She could be making more money on non warranty work. It is the narrative I like to believe.

Glad you caught that and had it done right again, I only have good luck with mom and pop shops and found a place recommended by a buddy

 

[kryptto]

Since this is a transmission thread, has anyone had issues taking the transmission fluid cap off? I can unscrew it - yet find it very difficult to remove. I dont like to force anything, but did have a shop recently replace the fluid. Any trick or possibly a problem?

 

[802SHO]

Since this is a transmission thread, has anyone had issues taking the transmission fluid cap off? I can unscrew it - yet find it very difficult to remove. I dont like to force anything, but did have a shop recently replace the fluid. Any trick or possibly a problem?

No it just comes straight out after fully loosened. You’re not going to hurt anything from pulling it out straight, it’s not held in by threads at that point, just a rubber gasket and sounds like it’s just sealed really well, you won’t hurt anything.

 

[kryptto]

No it just comes straight out after fully loosened. You’re not going to hurt anything from pulling it out straight, it’s not held in by threads at that point, just a rubber gasket and sounds like it’s just sealed really well, you won’t hurt anything.

Thanks!