trans stuck in P

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LeeSHO

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on my 93 atx, the trans won't shift into gear. i press the brake pedal and it stays stuck in P, anyone knows why it does that? i definetly don't, especially since this is the only atx i've owned :shrug:
 

SHOtimer

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Your brake switch isn't working. It is the switch on your brake pedal that illuminates your brake lights and operates the mechanism to get your car out of park. To drive your car - turn your ignition switch about half way to the 'on' position, this will bypass that circuit and allow you to move the shifter into neutral. You can then start the car and put it in gear and drive as you will. However, be careful you have no brake lights.

Doug
 

LeeSHO

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yea, my brake lights definetly don't work, i checked them just now, how do you replace this brake switch? and where? and oh yea, i'm doing a transmission service soon with this car, what are the best fluids and filter for the ATX?
 
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projectSHO89

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Could be your brake light switch, broken wiring at the switch, or could be a blown fuse (F1?).

Check the cruise disconnect on the bottom of the master cylinder for fluid. If wet, leave the switch unplugged until you replace the switch.

The blown fuse is pretty common for this fault. Check it first before replacing the switch on the pedal.


Steve
 

LeeSHO

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changed the brake switch with a used one, still stuck in P, no brake lights, anyone can help me with this problem?
 

redpsycho3

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this is what happened to my car too, i just put a new switch in and it worked fine...
 

95azSHO

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Don't know if is the same as a 95 but check the gear release button on the shifter. When I first got mine I had that problem had to use 2 hands to shift it out of gear. One to hold the shifter the other to knock the button in. After a while it loosened up and works great now.
 

shodup

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Just look for a blown fuse ANY blown fuses under the hood or under the steering wheel you can tell when a fuse is blown very easily.
 

hawkeye18

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From the Ford manual:

1. NOTE: Locking tab must be lifted before connector can be removed.

Disconnect the wire harness at connector from the stoplight switch (13480).

2. NOTE: Since the stoplight switch side plate nearest the brake pedal (2455) is slotted, it is not necessary to remove the brake master cylinder push rod black bushing and one white spacer washer nearest the pedal arm from the brake pedal pin.

Remove hairpin retainer and white nylon washer. Slide stoplight switch and push rod away from pedal. Remove stoplight switch by sliding switch up/down.

INSTALLATION:

1. Position stoplight switch so that U-shaped side is nearest pedal and directly over/under pin. The black bushing must be in position in push rod eyelet with washer face on side away from brake pedal arm.

2. CAUTION: Do not substitute other types of pin retainers. Replace only with production hairpin retainer. Damage to components may occur.

Slide stoplight switch up/down trapping master cylinder push rod and black bushing between stoplight switch side plates. Push stoplight switch and push rod assembly firmly toward brake pedal arm. Assemble outside white plastic washer to pin. Install hairpin retainer to trap whole assembly.

3. NOTE: Stoplight switch wire harness must have sufficient length to travel with stoplight switch during full stroke at pedal. If wire length is insufficient, reroute harness or service as required.

Assemble wire harness connector to stoplight switch.

4. Check stoplight switch for proper operation. Stoplights should illuminate with less than 27 N (6 lbs) applied to brake pedal at pad.


Also, as far as ATF goes, Valvoline Max Life seems to, uh, mesh well with the tranny, and it's fairly cheap. Some people go with the Mobil 1 ATF but my god, is that stuff expensive.
 

rubydist

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On my red 94, it got so it wouldn't release the safety interlock, so I disconnected the interlock cable at the shifter, so it will shift out of park whenever I want. (The way cars were until some incompetent Audi drivers were crashing into ice cream stores and hurting little kids, so we all have to deal with another interlock now.....)
 

jmpSHO

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From the Ford manual:

1. NOTE: Locking tab must be lifted before connector can be removed.

Disconnect the wire harness at connector from the stoplight switch (13480).

2. NOTE: Since the stoplight switch side plate nearest the brake pedal (2455) is slotted, it is not necessary to remove the brake master cylinder push rod black bushing and one white spacer washer nearest the pedal arm from the brake pedal pin.

Remove hairpin retainer and white nylon washer. Slide stoplight switch and push rod away from pedal. Remove stoplight switch by sliding switch up/down.

INSTALLATION:

1. Position stoplight switch so that U-shaped side is nearest pedal and directly over/under pin. The black bushing must be in position in push rod eyelet with washer face on side away from brake pedal arm.

2. CAUTION: Do not substitute other types of pin retainers. Replace only with production hairpin retainer. Damage to components may occur.

Slide stoplight switch up/down trapping master cylinder push rod and black bushing between stoplight switch side plates. Push stoplight switch and push rod assembly firmly toward brake pedal arm. Assemble outside white plastic washer to pin. Install hairpin retainer to trap whole assembly.

3. NOTE: Stoplight switch wire harness must have sufficient length to travel with stoplight switch during full stroke at pedal. If wire length is insufficient, reroute harness or service as required.

Assemble wire harness connector to stoplight switch.

4. Check stoplight switch for proper operation. Stoplights should illuminate with less than 27 N (6 lbs) applied to brake pedal at pad.


Also, as far as ATF goes, Valvoline Max Life seems to, uh, mesh well with the tranny, and it's fairly cheap. Some people go with the Mobil 1 ATF but my god, is that stuff expensive.

Mobil 1 is expensive but I have been using it since I bought my car with 112k and I now have 280k with the original trans. and motor.
 

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