trans probolem?

[shonutt]

the car drives great in all but if i take off at wot from a stop when it hits about 45 50 the car will not go into gear untill i take my foot off the gass or id i try and pass at wot it bounces of the revlimiterand not go into gear for about 2-3 seconds but if i accelerate normal it shifts perfect .. the trans fluid is squeaky clean my cruise works car runs awsome until wide open throttle what could cause this ....

 

[Slo-Sho]

How is the 1-2 upshift overall? Does it slide into gear or give you a firm shift?

 

[shonutt]

the 1-2 feels normal not to firm just nice and soft unless its full throttle from a dead stop thats when it jumps the rpms at about 5 to 7 grand and bounces back and forth then goes into gear

 

[shonutt]

had the trans looked at and fluid changed pan was clean no particles nothing they said it was in awsome shape for how old and what type of car it is ..any ideas on what could be causeing this

 

[38SHO]

you could just be bouncing off the rev limmiter in 2nd gear before it shifts, does it shift at all if you keep it at WOT or does it just hit the rev limmiter and you back down? Let it hit the rev limmiterl ike 3 times or even 4 at WOT and see if it shifts.

My brothers Impala SS did this on the 2-3 shift, it was actually kinda cool LOL
it sounded good if nothing else...It bounced of the limmiter usually twice before it shifted.

Also try to manually shift it... I don't know how your shifter selector is, it might just say D3L and not have a position for 2nd. If thats the case then at about 25mph drop it down into low and it should go into 2nd gear, I've done this up to about 50 in my SLO and it still hits 2nd, I've never seen if it shifts down into 3 at higher speeds or what......... I know it shifts down into 1st @ 15mph or lower in L.

 

[SHO#7]

Trying to manualy shift it is good advice since our cars will command second when put into second. ( part of the second gear start setup ). To me, you either have a possible bad TPS not telling the proper information to the ecm, or the transmission is wearing and this is the first signs of impending doom. How long has it done this?

 

[38SHO]

Id try to scan it for codes and see what you get.... the people who serviced your transmission didn't say it had any black soot type material on the bottom of the pan? Did you see the pan? You might get a code for a TPS, even if you don't have a check engine light on you can still have a code set. I guess you'd have to send it to the professionals, hook it up to a real scanner, I use a Snap-on one, forget what model its called, and you can see all kinds of parameters and information regarding the engine and transmission, check to see what the voltage and or signal % is comming from the TPS with the Engine off and key on.... you could do that yourself if you had a multi-meter.
Usually when electronic parts go faulty it will set a code or a CE light. Run the memory code test and see what pops up.

if you can't find a problem easily that cures it just live with it, manually shift it if that works when you want to beat on it, otherwise just cruise and be happy with your transmission. Save yourself some money and live with it.

 

[SHO#7]

I guess you'd have to send it to the professionals, hook it up to a real scanner, I use a Snap-on one, forget what model its called, .

A Snap On MT-2500 is what I use.

around .8 volts at idle, around 4.5 at WOT.

Mike

 

[SHOtimer]

Or you could just use a paper clip and check the codes for free.

Doug

 

[38SHO]

yeah I looked at a picture and the 2500 is what we have.

Did you buy that new Black cartridge for up to 2003 I think and it incoporates all the Asian/Domestic OBD-I, OBD-II, 2002+ cartridges together. It really sucks LOL, kills the batteries real fast and can be a hassle going through all the screens to get to where you got when you just put the old 96-2001 type cartridge.



once you use a real scanner a thousand times you would laugh at that paperclip statement.......... and not in a good way.

 

[shonutt]

had no codes took it to the dealership and they went to take it for a test drive and they could not get it to act up ..i drove it the rest of the day no probolems ..the mechanic said i should check to see if one of my plugs or wires had gone bad he said if it dosent get the proper spark at wot it will not shift into 3rd ..said the probolem can come and go unil i fix the probolem he also noted that my feul pump needed changing soon because it had started whining ...how much was the scanners you all bought and were did you purchase them..how trust worthy are the advanced auto stores scanners

 

[38SHO]

these are professionals tools. Way more sophisticated then an Advanced Autoparts store one. You can buy them on ebay, Along with the actual scanner you need a connector for your kind of Port... theres all kinds, Chryslers, Jeeps, GM1, Ford obdI, OBD-II is universal with key cards that plug in, and some of the OBD I's need a power adapter from either the cigarette lighter or positive baterry terminal.
Then there are cartridges, you would atleast need the Domestic up to 98 cartridge I think it goes to. Ford 1A adapater I believe on a sho, never scanned an actual SHO but thats what it should have, power connector, the one from scanner to abttery terminal is best on the FORD application, because the computer hookups are under the hood. The Cigarette lighter power supply is better suited for the GM-1 connector.

The great thing about these types of scanners is the amount of information you can get realtime and how fast it comes up with the codes. With the proper accessories you can hook-up to just about anything computerized on any car made. YOu don't have to look up code numbers, it tells you what they are. YOu can look at freeze frame records that shows sensor outputs when a certain code was set. You can record movies to review what is going on with a bunch of sensors during a roadtest.

Just some basic numbers it outputs for cars is
Coolant Temp, Tranny temp, Oil temp, engine load, % throttle, RPM, gear, lockup, a-f ratio, digital speedometer readout, and many other more technical tidbits. Some cars computers have sections for Engine, Tranny, Body, and ABS departments of more specified readings from the car.

It also takes about 3 seconds to clear codes. If you have your scanner hooked up on the right screen and restart the car, it usually comes right back with those codes instantaneously or in a few seconds if you didn't fix the problem or wiring is still not correct.

 

[SHO#7]

Did you buy that new Black cartridge for up to 2003 I think and it incoporates all the Asian/Domestic OBD-I, OBD-II, 2002+ cartridges together.QUOTE]

Yes, I do have the latest cartridge. I also have transmission troubleshooter until something like 02 or maybe 03. I would not say it sucks, I use it over the older ones. ( I do not trade in, I keep everything ) Just takes a second to * Load Software *... I do not run mine off batteries. I hook up a power cable. I used to get inaccurate information when I used the power pack.

 

[38SHO]

OBD-II takes it own power source and GM-1 and Ford 1-A take power inputs, Besides that I use battery power on the scanner for putting in the vins etc.... only bad thing about using batteries on that new cartridge is it will **** the battery power and start loosing the vin you entered, by the time you turn off the scanner and put in the right key or plug-in it forgets the vin u just put in..............

 

[SHO#7]

OBD-II takes it own power source and GM-1 and Ford 1-A take power inputs, Besides that I use battery power on the scanner for putting in the vins etc.... only bad thing about using batteries on that new cartridge is it will **** the battery power and start loosing the vin you entered, by the time you turn off the scanner and put in the right key or plug-in it forgets the vin u just put in..............

You do not use the power cord that goes from the plug to the battery or cigarette lighter?