ViPER1313
SHO Member
Alright, I have a serious problem with what I assume are the internals of my rear cylinder head that seems to be temperature related.
* After a hard drive last week (car was full to the brim of oil, never overheated) I came to an idle back at my house and experienced a STRONG knock from the top end of the motor at idle.
*Revving the motor would make the noise disappear completely, and it would not immediately return (very random). Seemed to only happen at idle.
*No oil light was present at any time (sensor works perfectly, 20k miles old)
After the car cooled down, the car returned to normal. Ran fine, accelerated fine, no knock for the duration of this week (short drives too and from school).
*Today, as I was driving normally (80 degrees outside) with the car at full operating temp, the knock came back, accompanied with stuttering from the motor (like it was running on 5 cylinders.) The noise seemed to be coming from the top rear (beneath the secondary solenoid.) Still no oil light, but definite and noticeable intermittent loss of power. Power loss and knock were felt especially while accelerating.
I had the car towed back to my house, so now I need some opinions (my thought processes below):
-Sticky Injector - To me the knock sounds way to loud to be this. It would explain the heat related issue and power loss though.
-Stuck Valve - Could / would the problem appear and disappear as it has been and be temperature related? How can and should I check for this?
-Spun Rod Bearing - Bearings replaced at 130k miles (164k now), 3k mile oil changes, car was full of oil while running hard. I find this hard to believe, because to my knowledge rod knock doesn't go away once it starts, and the oil light should be on.
-Ejected valve shim - This would be obvious when I tear into the top end, but it wouldn't be something that started and went away again? (would it??)
-Secondarys knocking - I have heard about this happening before, but once again I don't think they could be as loud as this noise was.......
-Failed Chain Tensioner - I don't think this would explain the intermittent losses of power, although it would cause a temperature related knock.
* After a hard drive last week (car was full to the brim of oil, never overheated) I came to an idle back at my house and experienced a STRONG knock from the top end of the motor at idle.
*Revving the motor would make the noise disappear completely, and it would not immediately return (very random). Seemed to only happen at idle.
*No oil light was present at any time (sensor works perfectly, 20k miles old)
After the car cooled down, the car returned to normal. Ran fine, accelerated fine, no knock for the duration of this week (short drives too and from school).
*Today, as I was driving normally (80 degrees outside) with the car at full operating temp, the knock came back, accompanied with stuttering from the motor (like it was running on 5 cylinders.) The noise seemed to be coming from the top rear (beneath the secondary solenoid.) Still no oil light, but definite and noticeable intermittent loss of power. Power loss and knock were felt especially while accelerating.
I had the car towed back to my house, so now I need some opinions (my thought processes below):
-Sticky Injector - To me the knock sounds way to loud to be this. It would explain the heat related issue and power loss though.
-Stuck Valve - Could / would the problem appear and disappear as it has been and be temperature related? How can and should I check for this?
-Spun Rod Bearing - Bearings replaced at 130k miles (164k now), 3k mile oil changes, car was full of oil while running hard. I find this hard to believe, because to my knowledge rod knock doesn't go away once it starts, and the oil light should be on.
-Ejected valve shim - This would be obvious when I tear into the top end, but it wouldn't be something that started and went away again? (would it??)
-Secondarys knocking - I have heard about this happening before, but once again I don't think they could be as loud as this noise was.......
-Failed Chain Tensioner - I don't think this would explain the intermittent losses of power, although it would cause a temperature related knock.
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Those two things will make it knock. Also check your cam chain tension - that will make noise as well. I don't know what else it could be without hearing it myself.
. I' probably going home later this week - I'm going to tear the top cover off to get a good visual on how the belt is actually acting and see if I can tighten it up. If that fixes the knock I will order a new tensioner and belt + all the other stuff for a front 60k while I'm at it.
