Tips on buying my first SHO

[DrNino]

Hi guys,

I'm going to check out a 1994 SHO AT with 160k on it.

Any advice on things I should watch out for? The guy local dealer, so he doesn't really have much history on the car.

The one thing I have read about is folks having tranny issues. I would appreciate any tips on the following...

- What I should inspect/look out for
- And what I should pay attention to when test driving

I've had quite a few cars, but not a mechanic by any stretch. I know some of the standard points for checking a used car. But hoped you guys could give me specific advice for what to look out for on a SHO of this year...and with this mileage.

Thanks in advance!

 

[DJSHO91]

The 1st thing is looking over the vehicle thoroughly. Look for things that are out of place. A small example of this is seeing a bunch of wiring hanging below the dash or repairs made with duct tape in the engine compartment. This is not to say that these are problems found, but they reflect repairs done at below desired professional standards. Wiring and electrical problems can be difficult and expensive to repair.

The next thing to look for is complete service records. You can often find a better buy, even at higher mileage, when you have proof that all the required maintenance requirements have been completed. With the SHO this revolves mainly around the 60k mile service interval requirements.

The 3rd area of inspections involve a thorough test-drive taking time to examine all running factors of the vehicle. Now this is not saying that you get the vehicle up over 100mph, or try to see how it launches in drag racing simulations. No, you want to get the car up to it's full operating temp, seeing if there are any stumbling or hesitation. You see how the clutch operates and how the car shifts(manual or auto). You also check out how everything works. You also look for tell-tale signs, such as streaking on the side glass which shows wearing in the window tracks.

The final task is to take the car for a professional inspection by a mechanic that is knowledgeable on the vehicle you desire. This can cost anywhere from $50 on up, but it is money well spent. A knowledgeable mechanic can find evidence of past repairs(mechanical or body) and warn you of possible problems that are not easily seen by the novice. If the seller won't allow this, walk away/

As you can tell, these steps take time, but as with any investment proper research minimizes your risk and that is what you are seeking. I hope this helps.

 

[elarm1]

^ well put. Exactly what I would do!
I remember I checked out a Supercharged 02 Mazda Millenia to replace the one I lost to a drunken master. It looked good, but put in on the hywy and slowly got it to 75 and the whole car shut completly off! No lights on the dash or anything. I pulled over called my wife then called the dealer, left the keys in it and my wife took me home. I will never buy a car without a test drive and a mechanic present.

 

[rubydist]

While D.J.'s advice is certainly sound, its pretty unlikely you will get decent service history records on a vehicle that is 15 years old with over 160k miles. In light of that, you have to look it over very carefully. I have found that washing a vehicle by hand is an excellent way to find any paint/body issues, since I am rubbing my hand over the entire body surface as I wash it.

In terms of your auto trans question, the 94/95 atx trans are significantly stronger than the 93 atx, so you have less of a chance of buying a problem there, but any atx can fail. You want to drive it in a wide variety of situations when you test drive it - make sure it upshifts and downshifts properly in all situations, make sure the torque converter locks up appropriately.

Make sure the cruise works, and check to see if the cruise control recall has been done. Make sure the abs, check engine, low coolant lights come on for a few seconds when you turn the key to 'run' and then go out shortly after you start the engine.

Look to see if the car has Motorcraft struts on it - if so it is highly likely that they are original, which means they need to be changed. Check to see if the rear end sags, as the factory rear springs tended to do. Look at the condition of the rubber bushings on the lower control arms (front and rear) and the subframe bushings. Listen for clunking noises from the struts when you go over sharp bumps - this indicates strut mounts need replaced, which is another common need.

Make sure the a/c works even after the car has been running for over 20 minutes - a lot of times the a/c clutch will work when cold, but not when hot - this indicates a clutch gap that needs adjustment.

Since the dealer doesn't have much service history, have them pull the carfax or autocheck on the vehicle so you at least know the title history.

 

[DJSHO91]

While D.J.'s advice is certainly sound, its pretty unlikely you will get decent service history records on a vehicle that is 15 years old with over 160k miles.

I did just that when I bought my 91'(with 154,000 miles on it) in 2004. I checked on several that had little or no records, but I found one with complete records. That's the one I bought, even though it had the highest mileage. Better the devil you know tnan the one you don't.

However, as rubydist states, if you can't or don't want to search as I did, then the inspection processes become even more important!

 

[DrNino]

Thanks so much guys...I appreciate all the feedback.

So I saw the SHO and it was very neglected...the interior was falling apart...literally. It's remarkable how some people can say, "it's in really good shape...just a little used"...and that be completely false.

That one is now scratched off and I'm left with two others.

- 1993 SHO atx 105k mi. 2nd owner. Maintenance records.
- 1992 SHO mtx 150k mi. donation. some records

Price difference of $400, the 93 costing more obviously. Rubydist mentioned atx issues with the 93 and below...is a mtx a better bet?

Thanks! I hope to be a SHO owner soon!

 

[DrNino]

Thanks again for the help everyone!

 

[cfamilyfix]

Knowing the common fail points or maintenance issues is a big plus when shopping for a particular vehicle sch as the SHO...160k is not outrageous for these cars and if you are lucky it may just need the basics...EVERYTHING!!! As stated above...you have a good year for the trans. If the rear windows work...IT'S A KEEPER...lol. Good luck. I hope it works out.

 

[NewSHOdriver]

Hey I am surprised no one said play "good cop bad cop"

I you don't know what it is let me explain.

1.Get a buddy to go with you

2. As you inspect the car have your friend say something like " Yeah I don't know man"

3. Have him make up another car like "This car seems ok but theres the other SHO on main street."

4. Don't buy first time you see it say you will need his number and say you need to think about it

5. Now here comes the fun part make up a story saying you know of another SHO around for like 200 cheaper.

6. Ask if he could lower or throw in a oil change or a pizza even. Keep saying that the guy can lower even more. When you feel you have a decent price say you choose them and buy the car.

My mom's boyfriend bought a 2003 Dodge Ram for 20k when it was originally 8k more. He also got a 2 free oil changes.


This was done with a dealership but can be done with private purchases as well. A word of caution is don't try to chew him down 500 on the first bite try low ballin at 150 or so. If he can't then ask yourself if it's worth the money


O and make sure you inspect as much records/carfax the car. Then try taking for a test spin check if it got the "60k" or not.

 

[SHO_91]

Start up car. Listen for any unusual sounds, ticking, knocking, grinding. Let idle for 5-10 min (idle should be smooth and consistent @ around 800 rpm), watch the gauges, especially oil pressure, oil level, CEL, temp. Check under the car for leaking fluids. Check surface of engine for oil leakage, check hoses. May be a good idea to pull a plug wire and check for oil in the plug wells (usually indicates whether a upper 60k needs to be done). Test drive it.

 

[sperold]

Just like any other car

Look for a car with the body in the best rust free condition. Look around the gas cap, windsheild pillars, around the sunroof, and the rocker panels from underneath. Nothing is more expensive than body work! Low mileage is nice, but don't make it a deciding factor, if the last 10 miles were driven while overheating, then the low number of miles doesn't matter. Check the coolant when shut off to see if there are any signs of overheating (like water only, or the Coke appearance). Clutchs are the problem for standard cars (chatters while backing up) and the automatic can be a problem as well. Make sure it goes into overdrive during the test drive. And in a parking lot, do some left and right hard turns to see if you can get the front end to groan. Look for drips and check the oil to see how it looks. A hint of colour means it has been it there awhile (not new yesterday) and black is suspecious as well.
A car with flaws at a good price is just as good as a high priced model. Find out what it will cost for struts, a water pump, an alternator and a battery, and factor that in to your comparison price. Look for new parts on the car and look to see if the front cover has been off to do the timing belt change and the 60K service. I find a car that still has the A/C working is usually very well maintained, and trust me, they never need just a charge of Refrigerant to get them working again. Get the longest test drive you can and keep the car overnight if it is from a dealer. That way you see the cold start and any smoke or noises.
Good luck and rest assured you are doing the right thing. With all the wonderful cars that have been produced over the years (and the SHO is a great one), it is rediculous that people settle for the dingy cars they drive.

 

[kikkinasphalt]

buy a set of tools first.

or make friends with people who have tools.


good luck, and enjoy!