Timing belt broke!

[SHOstuff]

Well today on my way to school my timing belt broke cause my car just shut off. Someone please tell me step for step how should I change my timing belt. That means what tools would I need and what I need to take off and what I don't need to take off and etc. Just please help me. cry

 

[Bank of SHO]

Do a search on the 'front end 60k'.

Good luck,
Tom

 

[luigisho]

Just because the car shut off doesn't mean the timing belt broke. I'm not saying it isn't broken but there are other failures that can cause a car to stop running.

 

[olympic]

Section 3 of the Chiltons manual covers the procedure, it's a wise $10-15 investment.

 

[TYSHO]

Have you even tried to start it back up?

Maybe you hit a big a** *** hole and triggered the fuel pump switch.

What exactly happened?

Anyhing can be the cause of why it stopped running. What if your fuel reading sender or what ever is acting up showing you have gas and you just ran out. Just things to considered instead of jumping the gun.

<small>[ July 31, 2003, 04:43 AM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

To verify it was in fact the timing belt that broke, remove the oil fill cap and have someone turn the ignition key. You can watch the front bank exhaust camshaft that is visible through the opening to see if it is turning. If not, there is not a connection between the crankshaft and camshafts. If it is turning, you need to look elsewhere. Read the EEC codes by the instructions in the links at the bottom of my signature.

I have some excellent information to guide you through a timing belt change for the 3.0L, manual transaxle (MTX) SHO. It is helpful to provide the year, engine and transaxle of your car.

 

[SHOstuff]

I know it's my timing belt cause when I was driving it just cut out in the middle of acceleration. Besides, when I stopped to see what it was I took off the timing cover and that's exactly what it was, I just pulled it right on out. Sdpatt, I have a '90 model mtx. Is the '90 sho the same as the '91 as far as parts and etc.? I would very much appreciate it sdpatt if you was to walk me through it, thanks! thumb the

 

[SHOstuff]

I know it's my timing belt cause when I was driving it just cut out in the middle of acceleration. Besides, when I stopped to see what it was I took off the timing cover and that's exactly what it was, I just pulled it right on out. Sdpatt, I have a '90 model mtx. Is the '90 sho the same as the '91 as far as parts and etc.? I would very much appreciate it sdpatt if you was to walk me through it, thanks! thumb

 

[luigisho]

lol. Well that's pretty good evidence that it's the timing belt. Same belt part # for 91 and all 89-95 3.0l SHO's. Good luck.

 

[SHO--ripper]

When doing the timing belt it is also a good time to replace your CPS or Crankshaft Position Sensor.

1.Remove the passenger side wheel and fender wall.
2.Place a socket wrench on the subframe with a 19mm socket on the crank bolt and bump the starter.This should loosen the crank bolt.
3.Remove the battery and battery tray.
4.Disconnect the DIS and remove the intake elbow.
5.Loosen/remove the serpentine belts via the tensioners with a 5mm allen/hex.
6.Remove the tensioners and the upper timing cover.
7.Use a pully puller to remove the crank pully.
8.Remove the Middle and lower timing covers.
9.Now normally you would loosen the timing belt tensioner and remove the belt,but since your belt broke you are going to have to get your #1 cylinder at TDC to make sure the car is timed correctly.
10.If you were going to replace the CPS you would do so after/before the timing belt was removed/replaced and you would gap it correctly.
11.Now you would line all the timing covers up and put everything back together and be good to go. thumb

I'm sure Scott will give you better instructions, but this should help you get started. thumb
BTW i usually remove the TQ. limiting mount on the passenger side firewall.

 

[SHOstuff]

Well I understand that I'm going to have to set the timing, that's what I need to know how to do. Now to take the crankshaft off what do I need to do to take it off, I don't have the timingbelt on so now I can't do the bump procedure? That's why I need step for step procedure to this taking in consideration I don't have the timing belt on.

 

[luigisho]

The procedure would only change regarding crank pulley removal. You could try an air wratchet if you have access to one. If not, get yourself a good sized cheater bar to put over the end of the hand wratchet for more leverage. Put the car in 4th gear, put the spare tire on that wheel and lower it to the ground, and it should break the bolt free with alot of muscle use and grunting. Jack it back up, remove the wheel, take it back out of gear, and on to the next step.

Scott's got a great procedure and you can look at another write up at http://www.shotimes.com in the faq section-- under care and feeding.

You can find a good sized cheap cheater bar at places like Home Depot. Rick likes to use a section of pvc pipe and I picked up a good sized section of thick metal piping in the same plumbing aisle.

<small>[ July 31, 2003, 02:23 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

Why wouldn't the starter bump method work with the timing belt off. The starter is still connected to the flywheel, crankshaft and crankshaft damper. The only difference in the procedure will be the need to use a strap wrench to rotate the camshafts until the index marks are at 12:00 rather that just turning the crankshaft.

Check your inbox for an early Christmas present. Look here for images of the alignment at belt installation time.

 

[shojuan]

SHOStuff, I'm curious what mileage you have on the car. I'm assuming that was the original belt. One doesn't hear about the timing belts breaking on these cars very often in spite of the fact that many people seem to cheat death for the belt before replacing it for the first time. I went 147,000 miles before I replaced mine. What I thought was cool about doing it myself is the fact that I'll be changing it every 60,000 miles from now on. It was easy enough the first time around. The second time will be even easier.

 

[SHOstuff]

I have 174,000 mi on it. I don't know if it's the oem belt cause I didn't see motorcraft on it, but who knows. But what I want to say sdpatt or anyone is that which way does the crankshaft move when the engine is running, clockwise or counter clockwise? And I saw on the pics that you sent me on the camshafts there is a small hole or dot on the cam pulleys if they're at 12 o clock. When they are it will be lined up with the lines on the timing cover along with the white lines on the belt itself, now that part I have and correct me if I'm wrong. Now on the crankshaft, which is at the bottom of course, I couldn't see what they were lining the "3.0L" up with other than it is lined up with a tooth, what else is my mark on there to make sure that it's lined up perfectly? You have to excuse me being so basic but I don't want to go wrong, I think y'all understand me! shrug

 

[haydenm315]

As mentioned already, the shotimes.com site has a very excellent procedure with nice pictures for doing the timing belt and cps. Definately more easy to follow than the helms manual. The helms gives very general instructions for install and removal. You have to jump around to different sections of the book to actually figure out what's going on sometimes. Good luck man.

 

[shojuan]

SHOstuff:
Now on the crankshaft, which is at the bottom of course, I couldn't see what they were lining the "3.0L" up with other than it is lined up with a tooth, what else is my mark on there to make sure that it's lined up perfectly? You have to excuse me being so basic but I don't want to go wrong, I think y'all understand me! shrug

Not at all!! Props to you for tackling it yourself instead of spending your precious money at a shop.

The lower 3.0 mark on the belt gets lined up with a dimple that's on the lower timing belt pulley. You might need to clean up the timing gear with some good solvent or brake cleaner to expose the dot. Between the shotimes writeup and the information Scott will send you you should be all set. Any other questions don't hesitate to ask here as we pretty much all have when we did our first timing belt.

Also when putting on the belt make sure the writing on the belt is readable if you were standing on the driver's side. When standing in front of the belt putting it on the writing should face away from you. Check and double check that all your marks are lined up after you put the belt on. The belt can be a tight stretch getting it on the camshaft pulleys and I remember my belt walking off a tooth or two as I tried to get the belt in position where I could "walk" it onto the pulleys.

The engine rotates clockwise. Also, after you intall the belt and rotate the engine you likely won't see that marks line up again. It will take many, many revolutions of the crank before those marks will line up again. So don't be surprised when you can't get them to line up after you are done.

 

[SHOstuff]

I'm getting two different information about the crank pulley index. First, what is TDC on #1 piston? Second on the attachment that sdpatt sent me it says line the index on the crank pulley with the index on the timing cover and in the forum info they say line the 3.0L with the index on the crank pully. So what do I line the white lines with, this is the only part that's confusing me. Someone please set this straight for me once and for all. shrug

 

[olympic]

The dimple on the crank timing pulley gets lined up with the mark on the housing which is at approximately the "5 o'clock" position. This puts the #1 cylinder at TDC.

So after you've done that and lined up the marks on the cam pullies, just install the belt, making sure the 3 lines line up with the dimples on the pullies.

 

[sdpatt]

The "0" mark on the timing cover is used to align the crankshaft damper before the damper and timing covers are removed to start the job and again after the new belt, crank damper and lower timing cover have all been reinstalled. The index dimple on the damper must be aligned with the 5:00 ridge on the oil pump before the new belt is installed. Check the images in the link in my last post to see the location of the index marks before installing the new belt.