I had to enlarge the adjustment slots on the upper strut towers to get the front camber to -1 degree at both sides. The rear didn't lower enough to change it too much, but I did redrill the right rear upper strut holes to get the left and right both at -1 degree.
Lowering the ride height on a MacPhearsen strut suspension will require that the upper strut mounting points be moved outward to return the camber to the original value.
Camber that is not perfectly flat (0 degrees) will affect the tread wear on some tires more than others. After 10 sets on this car, I have seen some wear drastically (inner portion wear) and others not be affected much at all. Up to about -1 degree will allow most tires to wear fairly evenly.
There are several ways to adjust the camber on both the front and the rear. By drilling out the spot welds on the factory locator plate on the fronts, you can use the adjustment slots already provided. For greater movement, there is an adjustable upper strut mount that allows the strut mount to be moved outward without the spring being relocated. This helps because if you move the strut outward too far, you will have the upper spring pad rubbing on the inside of the strut tower (I should know).
On the rear, there is everything from eccentric bushing sets for the rear lower lateral link to adjustable lower links. I have an eccentric bushing kit still in the box for $15 plus shipping (~$3) if anyone is interested.
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Scott
1991, 252K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, SHO Shop front & rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
Class II hitch, Silver award at the SHOklahoma Car Show