There is good flow from the exhaust and the rear brakes arn't dragging i have pounded out the e-brake and i no longer use it. And that is a good idea on the injectors i will check in to that and what does WOT mean?
This is the last straw, if the car does't get working right it is going to be crushed
- Thread starter audioman
- Start date
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rangerj
Active Member
For system diagnostics try this; How to Understand, Service, and Modify Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control by Charles O. Probst. It is available through Amazon.com for about $22 U.S.
Haynes provides general maintanance information and will not help you much. Then there is the local library reference section with the shop manuals such as Mitchels, Motors, Chiltons, etc.
If you are not getting pertinent codes then the problem is not electronic, it is mechanical, such as the suggested lack of fuel pressure, malfunctioning fuel injectors, dragging brakes, or clogged cats. rangerj
Haynes provides general maintanance information and will not help you much. Then there is the local library reference section with the shop manuals such as Mitchels, Motors, Chiltons, etc.
If you are not getting pertinent codes then the problem is not electronic, it is mechanical, such as the suggested lack of fuel pressure, malfunctioning fuel injectors, dragging brakes, or clogged cats. rangerj
PAracer
Active Member
Abouut the SPOUT connector. Check to see that it is in place. It is a little grey plug that is at the end of a three inch wire the is bracnhed off of the cam sensor wires a couple inches back from the sensor.
You said that you don't trust the PO when he told you what had been done to the car. What exactly did he say?
Does the car smoke at all? When the 3.0 in my fathers car was going south, it smoked at startup, and WOT(wide open throttle).
You said that you don't trust the PO when he told you what had been done to the car. What exactly did he say?
Does the car smoke at all? When the 3.0 in my fathers car was going south, it smoked at startup, and WOT(wide open throttle).
93MTXSHO_STUD
New Member
I hade some power loss problems but i dont know if this will help you. When the runners opened the car would bog down. It happened to be that the MAF sensor had dirt on the contacts so i cleaned them and my car seemed to run a lot better.
FOSHO94
Chillin
I was just going to suggest checking out your MAF?
Howdy_Doody
SHO Member
This sounds a lot like an engine with poor compression. I'd run a quick check on at least the front 3 cylinders.
Just because the 'plug wires are all firing' doesn't mean you have firing on all cylinders. If you have a dead cylinder due to a burned valve it may not show up anywhere but a compression check.
Just because the 'plug wires are all firing' doesn't mean you have firing on all cylinders. If you have a dead cylinder due to a burned valve it may not show up anywhere but a compression check.
Definitely do a compression check. It doesn't matter that your plugs are firing if they aren't getting a good amount of compression.
Also, the Haynes has no information (as of a two years ago) on SHOs. The Chiltons for the Taurus includes the SHO.
Also, the Haynes has no information (as of a two years ago) on SHOs. The Chiltons for the Taurus includes the SHO.
SASHO91
Zoom Zoom
couldnt he run a cylinder balance test? or is that different then a compression test.
i know what a compression test is, but not to sure on the balance test, i think they are kinda the same?
i know what a compression test is, but not to sure on the balance test, i think they are kinda the same?
Blank-Disk
Member
I'd check the Timing Belt Tensioner. You shouldn't be able to move it without the aid of a vice, anything less and it's bad.
A Cylinder Balance test isn't good for these types of situations. Usually durring powerloss situations the problem disappears as the timing advances, so when the comptuer does the test at 1,500 RPMs, the problem gets masked and the computer doesn't notice it. But afterward whent he timing slows and you're back at 6-700 RPMs, ****, the problem is back and the computer is none the wiser. So yes, a compression test would be necessary in this case.
Also, what's your gas milage like? Could be leaky or plugged injectors as suggested above.
A Cylinder Balance test isn't good for these types of situations. Usually durring powerloss situations the problem disappears as the timing advances, so when the comptuer does the test at 1,500 RPMs, the problem gets masked and the computer doesn't notice it. But afterward whent he timing slows and you're back at 6-700 RPMs, ****, the problem is back and the computer is none the wiser. So yes, a compression test would be necessary in this case.
Also, what's your gas milage like? Could be leaky or plugged injectors as suggested above.
Thanks for all the advice we worked on the car all day today. Changed the plug wires, and switch the plugs to the Autolite that Mr.A suggested. We did some cleaning and checked the fuel pressure and changed the fuel filter. Checked the timing it is OK. Did some more cleaning and fired her up. She runs 300% better now. Not totally up to specs but deffintally a power boost. I can now peel out through second. 
(only in first before). 
But in driving it around the exhaust blew apart right after the y-pipe so we went in to get that fixed. So she isn't gonna be Crushed ! I have put heavy duty fuel injecotor cleaner in for the last few tanks so if there is any lite crud in there it will hope fully clean it out. Again Thanks alot. 
(only in first before). But in driving it around the exhaust blew apart right after the y-pipe so we went in to get that fixed. So she isn't gonna be Crushed ! I have put heavy duty fuel injecotor cleaner in for the last few tanks so if there is any lite crud in there it will hope fully clean it out. Again Thanks alot. Similar threads
