These #$%*! Rivets!

[JRA2000TL]

This week since I'm not traveling, I've been doing small projects with the SHO until I do my big engine tear down in December. My right rear power window motor crapped out on me and the window is about 1/8" from the top and won't go up and close completely. I figured I'll just rip out the motor, tear it apart, clean it up, re-assemble it, and reinstall it since the back door motors aren't riveted in, right? WRONG! I guess it's just the Gen IIs that are like that.

Anyway, what can I do to get these damned things out? A friend had an air drill and it took him a few shots but he got them out that way when he fixed the driver door window motor. I haven't bought a compressor yet, and the household drills don't do the trick.

My front passenger window motor is shot too (or just clogged up with dried grease). I had the door panel off yesterday to paint the black trim on the side mirror and would have liked to have fixed that one too while I was in there.

Is there any easier way to get these rivets out? I don't want to tear up the door hammering at it but I don't have a compressor yet, so no air drill. Any special bit I can buy at the hardware store that will eat through anything? These rivets are small and tough as **** to get out.

Edit: After more searching, I've found some that were able to wiggle them loose but if I'm not able to do that, then what? Do I need to install bolts when I re-assemble it? I've tried a household drill before and it wouldn't get those suckers out.

 

[mrecoolgar]

I always punch the center section out.
Then use a 1/4 bit to drill the center out as this will seperate the rivet bront to back.
Sometimes they spin so you'll need to wedge a screwdriver between the rivet and the body.
You can reassemble with 1/4-20 or M6-1.00 hardware.

 

[hawkeye18]

This week since I'm not traveling, I've been doing small projects with the SHO until I do my big engine tear down in December. My right rear power window motor crapped out on me and the window is about 1/8" from the top and won't go up and close completely. I figured I'll just rip out the motor, tear it apart, clean it up, re-assemble it, and reinstall it since the back door motors aren't riveted in, right? WRONG! I guess it's just the Gen IIs that are like that.

Anyway, what can I do to get these damned things out? A friend had an air drill and it took him a few shots but he got them out that way when he fixed the driver door window motor. I haven't bought a compressor yet, and the household drills don't do the trick.

My front passenger window motor is shot too (or just clogged up with dried grease). I had the door panel off yesterday to paint the black trim on the side mirror and would have liked to have fixed that one too while I was in there.

Is there any easier way to get these rivets out? I don't want to tear up the door hammering at it but I don't have a compressor yet, so no air drill. Any special bit I can buy at the hardware store that will eat through anything? These rivets are small and tough as **** to get out.

Edit: After more searching, I've found some that were able to wiggle them loose but if I'm not able to do that, then what? Do I need to install bolts when I re-assemble it? I've tried a household drill before and it wouldn't get those suckers out.

You didn't search very hard.

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=93453

Pay attention. Please don't punch the rivets on the rear door out; those hold the window guide in place and have nothing to do with the motor.

The fronts don't need rivets punched out either; unbolt the 3 bolts holding it in and use a big screwdriver (hey, what's this prybar doing with a flat-head end on it?) to pry the metal behind the motor back. Yank the motor out... when you reinstall, use your hand to manipulate the metal back to where the bolt threads into it; torquing will pull it in tight.

 

[JRA2000TL]

I've read that thread before and that's where I got the idea to rebuild this rear motor rather than replace it. In fact, this is the one where I thought I'd read that you didn't have to drill out anything. I guess I was mislead by seeing those rivets just above the motor, similar to the front doors. I have a 1990 Ford shop manual that I thought said for the fronts you have to drill the rivets. I guess I was looking at the window lift mechanism/regulator vs. the motor.

Oh well thanks for clarifying--wish I'd seen this post about 1 hour ago before I got mad and said to **** with it, I'll do it another day. I put it back together already. Maybe I'll pull it back apart one night this week.

I'm getting to be a pro at taking crap apart on this car and getting it back together---gets quicker every time, especially with the number of times I give up and go back to it later to try again.

Edit: Well I guess I deserve the Darwin Award. I went back to my shop manual once again to check what I'd seen before and according to it, you don't have to drill rivets for the back OR the front door window motors; just unbolt the 3 bolts like you said (not that I didn't believe you I just thought I'd seen something where I had to drill rivets--I guess it was for the regulator). Ok I feel like a ******* now. Nevermind me.

 

[hawkeye18]

To be fair, the manual does state to remove the rivets on the front door. And, if you wanna do it the right way, you should. But like I said, if you just pry the plate back far enough to get the motor out, you don't need to drill anything out.

You can also use same said screwdrybar (get it? screwdriver/prybar? :laugh_ti to wedge the rear motor down after you get the bolts out. Like I said in the original post, the old grease can form a remarkably tight vacuum in there.

Good luck! :wave:

 

[SHOtime2511]

both my rears are out...
i need to replace the crappy Ford plastic bearings that disintegrate,you can hear the crunching around when using the switch.

 

[SHOhopefull]

Jeremy, I'm gonna bring mine down there and leave it so you can put all the trim back in for me, K? Thxs... LOL