The Mechanic Doesn't Know What's Wrong!!

[EddieO]

As I stated before, my engine light is coming on with codes: 212 & 214. I also hve oil in my spark plugs.
I took my car to a mechanic and he said there are no codes that he could find and there is nothing wrong with my car. He said it will cost $250.00 to replace my valve cover gaskets and to fix my spark plug and oil problem.
Today my light came on and my tachometer didn't work.
There is definitely something wrong.
I am suspecting either the oil in my plugs is the problem or I need a new ignition coil.
I don't have the full knowledge and experience to replace my coil or unhook everything and replace my spark plug gaskets.
I guess it's time to experiment or go see somebody else.
Eddie

 

[Rob94]

Directly from the Chilton's repair manual for the Ford Taurus/Sable 1986-1995: Code 212=Loss of IDM input to ECA or SPOUT circuit grounded. Code 214=Cylinder identification circuit failure. Try replacing your Crank Positioning Sensor. Just my opinion.

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Rob
White 94MTX
Stock

 

[Jeremy Hohn]

Okay, when the CE engine light comes on and the tach quits working, that is classic cam (not "crank" rob94) position failure. The sensor is located right behind the power steering reservior on the rear valve covers. Easy to replace, just a matter of unscrewing the old sensor and screwing in the new. I don't know the part number off hand, but it is round in shape, and has 2 holes in it for 5.5mm bolts to go in and a plug area at the top. Some parts stores may have it listed as a "crank" sensor when it really isn't. You have to look at it to see. What year is your car? If you need a coil pack for a 93-95 atx, I have an extra one, but they usually don't fail often. I would suspect other things first. Probably plug wires. The reason the tach drops off is that the cam position sensor sends the signal to the tach for the rpm readings. I had mine fail that is why I know... If you try and start the car, and it starts really rough, like the engine is trying to fire off timing, the cam sensor can't figure out which valves are open and which ones are closed to get the correct firing order. That is what the cam sensor does. Sometimes you get lucky and the engine fires correctly, and then the motor seems to run fine. Trying to start the engine like that could do major internal damage, so I suggest you change that sensor out asap. The cost is only about $50. Alot cheaper than an engine rebuild!!

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Jeremy

1993 atx 122k miles
-PIAA headlamp bulbs (thanks Fratperformance)
-fish tanks installed
-fog lamp mod w/ blazer fog lamps
-6" 5% tint border on windshield
-black body filled lettering
-wclewis "powered by yamaha" badges
-Sho Shop Cold Air Induction Kit
-Lund blackouts front and back
-cincysho colgan half bra with "SHO" lettering
-KVR chrome cadmium plated rotors with carbon fiber pads
-Sho Shop cat back system with magnaflow chrome tips
-Performance Plus y-pipe
-TX personalized plates "SHO FUN"
-Shoshop underdrive pulleys
-Shoshop 80mm MAF
-60k completed by Sdpatt
-Redline atx tranny fluid and water wetter
-Ted Breaux LPM
-D4U1 computer upgrade
-Rebuilt 94/95 AXOD tranny with TRANS-GO shift kit

[This message has been edited by Jeremy Hohn (edited 11-09-2001).]

 

[EddieO]

So do you think the cam sensor is triggering the codes?
The tach didn't work at all. "0".
When I tried starting my car it started but it would die. I had to start it an hit the gas pedal to keep it running. After I got it going the tach worked and no EL. I have noticed if the EL is on, the tach is off, and the car is hard to start the next time I try.
Eddie

 

[Jeremy Hohn]

That is DEFINITELY the problem. The sensor that I told you about. Make sure you don't get the crank sensor. It has a long wiring harness on it. The cam sensor looks like those plastic things you put on top of coke cans to prevent the fizz from coming out to drink it later....have you seen those things?? That's how I would describe it. It doesn't have any wires that come with it either, just the sensor.

 

[AutoXSHO]

Jeremy, agreed on the codes.

As for the oil in the plug wells, this is a common SHO malady and easily repaired. Pull the intake, pull the valve covers and replace the plug well seals. YES, you can use RTV to fix them but NO it will not last very long. 10k miles at best. New plug well seals on clean surfaces with a thin coating of black RTV will keep them sealed for a long time.

However the car will run with oil in the plug wells - just not nearly as well as it should.

John V

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95 MTX with mods.

 

[sdpatt]

And the cheapest source for the Fel-Pro VS50378R valve cover and plug well seal set is $72+tax from AutoZone.


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Scott

1991, 252K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, SHO Shop front & rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
Class II hitch, Silver award at the SHOklahoma Car Show