take a look at this woodruff key...

[rangerj]

DK,

Now is it time for a taste of that TENN. special mineral water, you know Old No. 7 in the black lable? thumbs_u rangerj

 

[DavidT]

Thanks! thumbs_u But no thanks. wink
I quit that stuff years ago. (9 to be exact). Hey, but I can still celebrate, right?

 

[notstock]

dkautumna:
Thanks! thumbs_u But no thanks. wink
I quit that stuff years ago. (9 to be exact). Hey, but I can still celebrate, right?

David - Glad you finally got it off! BTW, I'm a friend of Bill W. too - 13 years and counting!

CYA,

Kurt

 

[DavidT]

well, don't light the fireworks just yet. The woodruff key must be bent, or its not fully seated. How do I get it out? I tried to insert a flathead screwdriver into the gap between it and the crankshaft (the flathead wrapped in electrical tape) and tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer. The w. key does not want to budge, as a matter of fact, the more I drove it in there, it looked as if the w. key was going to bend
I tried to just reinstall the crank sprocket, but I can only get it on the crankshaft about a 1/16 inch. When I try to tap it with a hammer and a pvc pipe it does not move freely.
So, right now I am afraid to...
A)force the sprocket on, and
B)pry the woodruff key out.
What should I do?

 

[Ishodu]

Sounds like you may need a new key. Once you found a new key you can lock vice grips
on the key and then use a pry bar between the shaft and the vice grips to pry it out. I has also heard that it is hard to find these keys. If somone has on in good shape you can measure it and get a ANSI Number for it just by measuring the key. It will be a three Digit # the first digit is the keys width in 1/32. EX the key is 1/8" wide = 4 1/8ths that makes the first #4 as for the dimeter it is the last two numbers and is measured in 1/8ths. So if the key has a dia. Of 3/4 that would be 6 1/8ths. Making a Number of 406. Usually the keys dia is the same as the shafts and the width is 1/4 shaft size. But I am not sure if this applys to our cranks scince I am yet to take mine off myself. Those keys may even be in some sort of metric measurments that dont have anything to do with what I am saying here. But if it applys These keys will be easy to get and very cheap.

 

[rangerj]

DK,

I kid about "that stuff", but I have not had any of it for about 25 years myself. My daughter was born 25 years ago this month, and that is when I gave it up. The best way to lead is by example.

As for the woodruff key, keep trying to pull or press or pry that sucker out of there. Maintain all the patientce you can muster, and be carefull not to nick or scratch the crank.

I'll keep watching your progress on this one to the end. Adapt, persevere, overcome. You have the advantage, you can think! rangerj

 

[DavidT]

The best way to lead is by example.

Amen! You said a mouthful! thumbs_u
I am having some problems... when I insert a flathead screwdriver covered with elec. tape and I tap it with a hammer, the head comes through the tape and is making contact with the key and/or the crankshaft. I can get the first inch or so to START to come up and out, but I believe its bending the key. I am continually spraying PB Blaster in there, too. Should I heat that bad boy? Or just keep beating the far out of it until something gives!?

 

[rangerj]

DK,

I do not like applying heat to metal, especially parts like the crankshaft, or axels. I realize that sometimes this is necessary, but IMHO only as a last resort.

What would the heat do to your front crank seal?

Here is a thought worth trying before you try a torch, propane or otherwise.

Boil a couple of quarts of water. Wrap a cold wet towel around the crank near the front seal. Pour (slowly) the boiling water over the crank and key, then immediately apply an ice cube to the key for about 30 to 60 seconds. Then try to remove the key.

If this does not work you can apply heat from, say a propane torch. Again I would try to protect the seal with a cold wet towel. Once the crank is hot I would again apply ice to the key.

The idea is to expand the crank metal with heat, and contract the key with cold. At least that is the theary.

Once the key is out, I would plan on replacing the seal if you have to use a torch. For what a seal cost do you really want to have to pull it all apart again? Food for thought.

Hang in there DK, your making progress. rangerj

 

[DavidT]

its out thumbs_u
I will post pics shortly

 

[DavidT]

here they are...

and...

It is bent ,
I also knicked the edges of the groove (on the crankshaft), will this present a problem?

<small>[ March 05, 2003, 07:40 PM: Message edited by: dkautumna ]</small>

 

[shojuan]

Congrats! thumbs_u You need to get yourself a new key and be sure to use a good layer of a quality grease on the crank and key (and a bit in the crank pulley and damper) to stave off corrosion. This will be even more important with those nicks there but I think you'll be just fine so don't worry about it. For your grease I would consider using something with a polyol ester synthetic base. Polyol ester has the best "cling" to metal so in theory it should provide the best protection from corrosion in that joint. Redline's stuff is all polyol ester based.

Really, it probably doesn't matter too much what grease you use. Just concentrate on finding yourself a new key. But if you want to use the best...

 

[rangerj]

DK,

Very good buddy. The small nicks or burrs can be cleaned up with a fine file. Don't get carried away with the file. Just file off the sharp high spots. If there is any corrosion on the crankshaft, including in the keyway, clean it up with some emory cloth.

As SHOJAUN says, and I could not agree more, coat the crankshaft, key and keyway, and the inside of the sprocket and pulley with a quality grease that will stay in place and prevent rust.

Once you get a new key you are in the home stretch. If you need help getting set up for the timing belt you know where to find it. The key is to get the engines no. 1 piston set up on top dead center, and lining everything else up with that. rangerj thumbs_u

 

[DavidT]

Thank you Al Fitz! thumbs_u