take a look at this woodruff key...

[DavidT]

the crank sprocket will only move about an inch... then it gets stuck. Is the woodruff key not positioned/seated properly?
I wrestled with the crank pulley the entire time before it came off (I even managed to bend all the bolts in the puller kit!)
Is it possible I bent the crankshaft? oh_my

 

[shojuan]

eek! eek! Well, if it makes you feel any better, I doubt you bent the crank!

 

[Yamaha V6]

No, it's too far forward to let the gear slide off. gently tap it back a smudge & the gear will slide off.

 

[rangerj]

DK,

Well you got the leak fixed. Congrats!

Is that the woodruff key for the pulley? If it is, you have gotten it jammed. Gently tap back the sprocket to free the front woodruff key. Be extra careful not to hit the crank.

If you can find a piece of pipe to fit over the crank, and fit against the sprocket, it would be better. That way you apply even pressure on the sprocket. Then remove the key. The sprocket should come off.

When you're done, and ready to assemble the sprocket and pulley, make sure the crank is clean of any corrosion (RUST). Then clean the inner surface of the crank and sprocket.

Apply a light coat of grease to the inner surface of the sprocket, the pulley, and the crankshaft and woodruff keys to prevent corrosion.

Examine the keys for any signs of hairline fractures, cracks, or breakdown of the metal from stress. If they look good, then reuse them. If you have any doubts, replace them.

You could stop at a machine shop and have someone look at them. Someone who works with metal. The one in the picture looks pretty good, but with out a close examination it is hard to tell. If they are not corroded, and there is not chips of metal flaking off of them, they are most likely OK.

Keep in mind these keys take a whole lot of stress from the torque of the motor.

There is NO WAY you bent the crankshaft. But, if you continue to try to pull the sprocket with the key jammed, you will split the sprocket. Been there, done that!

You're doing good so far. Keep it up, and hang in there. rangerj

 

[haydenm315]

Be careful not to bend the vane on the crank sprocket. I dont' think you can get the vane seperate from the sprocket. My as*hole friend bent mine trying to do me a favor since I hurt myself getting the waterpump off and got sliced on the cam sprocket. He cost me a lot of money.
Of course he doesn't feel obligated to pay me for his mistakes. What a disrespectful tool of a friend. He wonders why I dont' call him when I'm doing work on my car now.

<small>[ February 22, 2003, 05:41 AM: Message edited by: haydenm315 ]</small>

 

[Yamaha V6]

Ummm, if a friend is helping you work on your car, that's a risk you take for free labor & someone helping you out in a bind - I wouldn't expect your friend to pay for a broken part. That's pretty disrespectful on your part, I think.

Now if your friend was charging you & he broke something, that's a little different.

Free labor = take what you get & like it.

 

[DavidT]

gee whiz! I Pb Blasted the w. key 2 or 3 sessions, put a pvc pipe on the key and hammered it (medium to soft strikes), and its not moving. I even put a brass pipe on it and a hit it with the hammer... I don't think its budging squint Does anyone have a pic. of it and its proper position?
I am afraid to hit it real hard, should I be? How far down the crankshaft does it go? shrug

 

[rangerj]

DK,

You have pulled the sprocket outward and have jambed the woodruff key between the crank and the sprocket. Tap the sprocket back toward the block a fraction of an inch to "FREE" the woodruff key.

Tapping on the woodruff key while it is pushed forward and JAMBED, in order to move it, will either break it or bend it. DO NOT DO THIS. Sorry my earlier post was not clearer.
rangerj

 

[DavidT]

I already freed up the sprocket It is as far to the engine block as it can go.
The woodruff key still isn't budging. shrug
If anything jammed the w. key, it was the pulley when I removed it, but I am thinking the key was already out of its position prior to that, because I fought the pulley like a mad dog, to get it off.

<small>[ February 22, 2003, 04:06 PM: Message edited by: dkautumna ]</small>

 

[rangerj]

DK,

If the sprocket is pushed back, and the woodruff key is still sticking up like in the picture, then the woodruff key is bent.

Try pushing down on the end of the woodruff key, that is press the key into the keyway. You should be able to do this with a "C-clamp". Protect the crank against any scratches, gouges, nicks, burrs, etc. Use a piece of wood and/or tape to protect the crank.

If you can get the key to go down into the keyway, you should be able to draw the sprocket over the key, When you get far enough over the key, you should be able to remove the "C-clamp" and finish pulling the sprocket off.

If the key is also pushed toward the end of the crank, and will not set down into the keyway, it may have to be tapped back toward the block a touch.

If the woodruff key is bent you should replace it.
Before trying to pull the sprocket, coat the key and crank surfaces with grease.

Spray liquid lubricants do not stay in place. They tend to run away! Your crank looks clean and corrosion free, so a penetrating oil is not necessary. And you have already moved the sprocket.

The resistance to movement is not a matter of being stuck, it is a matter of being physically obstructed. Try the "C-clamp" trick and see if you can get the sprocket to overcome the obstruction. Take it slow and easy. As long as it is working keep pulling the sprocket outward.

If it binds up again, stop and evaluate the situation. Get back to us with your progress, or lack thereof! rangerj

 

[DavidT]

I tried using the C clamp... did not work.
I was trying EVERYTHING, to no avail.
I did have some luck placing the handle end of a screwdriver against the woodruff key and hitting the flathead end of it with a hammer. But it got stuck again. The sprocket NOW gets stopped about 1/8- 3/16" from the end of the crankshaft. (so with this method, I was able to move it another 3/4" or so, but it required many hits from the hammer
WHAT IS GOING ON... AND WHAT AM I GOING TO DO?
If the key is bent, how did it happen? I got the pulley and the sprocket off with EASE around 5 months ago!
ALso, don't let the clean end of the crankshaft fool you. I already cleaned it up before the pic. I think my coolant leak got it nice and filthy over the last ? months!

 

[notstock]

This happened to me too. It's not hard to remove, you just need to do a couple of things at the same time.

First, put everthing back to where it's supposed to be....push the timing belt gear all the way back to the block and using a screwdriver, gently tap the woodruff key back into place. Don't push it too far...you should be able to see it seating properly.

Then hook up the pulley puller to the timing belt gear. Turn the bolt on the puller once or twice, then tap the woodruff key back into place - as you pull the gear out, the key will come with it. Don't let it, otherwise, it will lodge itself in place again - TAP IT BACK IN. Then turn the bolt on the puller again and tap the woodruff key back in place. Repeat over and over - at some point the gear will come loose and you'll be home free.

The problem is that the top of the key is getting stuck on the gear and as you pull the gear out the key is wedging itself in place. Frustrating, but do-able.

Kurt
www.kurtmetros.com

 

[DavidT]

hmmmm. Thanks. But with all the tapping, hammering, etc., I haven't visibly seen the key move at all, obviously it did though, because I did move the sprocket about 3/4 inch

 

[rangerj]

DK,

Nonstock has the right idea. Be carefull not to nick up the end of the crankshaft. A "punch" of about a 1/4 inch may help to hit the woodruff key. Nonstock is exactly right, you have to keep the key in its slot, or keyway. If you do not, it binds up the sprocket, like in the picture.

Don't panic now DK, you're making progress. rangerj

 

[DavidT]

well, how far off is the key (in the pic.) from being fully seated? And how far from the end of the crankshaft is the key if its seated? Right now it is an 1/8 inch or so from the end, and its not budging
Am I a dummy or what?...
don't answer that!

<small>[ February 23, 2003, 10:15 PM: Message edited by: dkautumna ]</small>

 

[rangerj]

DK,

If the truth be told, we have all been there. I know I have, and more times than I care to admit.
Stuff happens! You have to roll with it and not let it defeat you. NO SURRENDER, NO RETREAT, AND NEVER SAY DIE!

So, back the sprocket up and see if you can get the woodruff key into the slot, or pulled out of the way. Don't give up now. or I got my fingers all sore typing for nothing!
rangerj

 

[Yamaha V6]

Listen to Kurt, he's a long-time SHO guy who's been there & done that.

You've come this far, you can do it. Just don't go postal on it.

 

[DavidT]

Thanks everyone (especially to Kurt, this time)
Got the sprocket off with the puller. The woodruff key is still not budging though. How do I get it out (to clean it and inspect to see if it is bent)?

 

[rangerj]

DK,

Well, you are making progress. You can check the sides and top of the woodruff key with a straight edge. If it is straight, and in the keyway, you may want to leave it alone. If you are going to replace the front crankshaft seal you will have to pull the key.

You should be able to gently pry it out of the keyway, if you want to remove it. Clean the crank of any corrosion, and then clean the inside of the sprocket and pulley also.

When you go to replace the woodruff key, you can press it into place with a "C-clamp". Use a piece of wood on the key, AND on the crank to protect them from scratches, nicks, etc.

Put a LIGHT coat of grease on the inside of the sprocket, pulley, and then the crank, including the woodruff key to prevent corrosion in the future. Do this just before you go to put it back together. Silicone grease stays in place real well, and is a good moisture barrier.

You should be able to push the sprocket and pulley back on with a piece of pipe, like PVC. Gently tap them into place. Check the crank for any knicks, burrs, etc, and clean them up before assembly.

Dig up SDPATT's disertation on the proper removal and installation of the front seal. It should be down hill from here! You due for a little good luck! rangerj

 

[DavidT]

Thanks ranger. The F.M. seal was replaced back in October. So all I have left is to clean it up and put it back together. thumbs_u