94shodriver
SHO Member
The car has been occasionally hard starting for a few weeks now, never when cold, but always cranks hard. The idle, when cold has been oscillating between 1500-500 rpms when cold and would occasionally die if I let it.
Three weeks ago on two separate occasions, the car bucked violently just once, a couple of days apart. It was very quick, like stomping on the accelerator really hard and letting off instantly. Both times the engine was warm and I was just cruising at part throttle. The next time this occurred, the bucking would not stop and the CEL came on. I had to pull over, turn off the engine and restart. It would not start on the first try, can't remember if the tach worked or not, but it started on the second try, though the tach was late to indicate rpms. I drove the car the rest of the way home with no problems.
I pulled the codes the next morning and got a whole slew of them, can't remember them all and I lost the paper I wrote them down on, but 214 was the most significant. So I checked for bad grounds and my battery cables were not tight, though there was no corrosion. I reset the codes, and drove it for a while - bought a code reader so I didn't have to count flashes while my wife called me on my phone - and didn't have any significant codes.
I checked the codes again after a few more cycles and 214 showed back up. So I replaced the camshaft position sensor, while I was at it, I removed the rear engine dampener assembly, and also noticed that the rear MM is broken (I'll attach a picture). The MM has probably been like this for a while because there is a noticeable clunk in the drivetrain that I've been trying to locate for a while. I also cleaned the idle control valve.
The most troubling part is that the UDP appeared to be wobbling, so I check the runout on it - 0.016" total. This seems like a lot, and visually it was worse than before. The Crank bolt was still well torqued, but I originally replace the harmonic dampener with the UDP because I notice it was wobbling. I'm concerned about crank cancer, and if the 214 code could be caused by a bad pick up on the CPS.
The car starts better, but the idle still oscillates. I'm going to reset the codes and idle, then see what happens. If the consensus about the UDP runout is that it's too much, then I'll pull it and inspect the keyway.
Are all these issues related, or some of them?
Everything is about 35k miles old when I did the 3.2 swap and rebuilt the engine. I don't have a LPM or aftermarket MAF. The car has been beat on at the track pretty hard. It has broken straps on the pressure plate from the accelerator getting stuck under the floor mat, causing the engine to be off balance until it could be replaced approximately 100 miles later.
Three weeks ago on two separate occasions, the car bucked violently just once, a couple of days apart. It was very quick, like stomping on the accelerator really hard and letting off instantly. Both times the engine was warm and I was just cruising at part throttle. The next time this occurred, the bucking would not stop and the CEL came on. I had to pull over, turn off the engine and restart. It would not start on the first try, can't remember if the tach worked or not, but it started on the second try, though the tach was late to indicate rpms. I drove the car the rest of the way home with no problems.
I pulled the codes the next morning and got a whole slew of them, can't remember them all and I lost the paper I wrote them down on, but 214 was the most significant. So I checked for bad grounds and my battery cables were not tight, though there was no corrosion. I reset the codes, and drove it for a while - bought a code reader so I didn't have to count flashes while my wife called me on my phone - and didn't have any significant codes.
I checked the codes again after a few more cycles and 214 showed back up. So I replaced the camshaft position sensor, while I was at it, I removed the rear engine dampener assembly, and also noticed that the rear MM is broken (I'll attach a picture). The MM has probably been like this for a while because there is a noticeable clunk in the drivetrain that I've been trying to locate for a while. I also cleaned the idle control valve.
The most troubling part is that the UDP appeared to be wobbling, so I check the runout on it - 0.016" total. This seems like a lot, and visually it was worse than before. The Crank bolt was still well torqued, but I originally replace the harmonic dampener with the UDP because I notice it was wobbling. I'm concerned about crank cancer, and if the 214 code could be caused by a bad pick up on the CPS.
The car starts better, but the idle still oscillates. I'm going to reset the codes and idle, then see what happens. If the consensus about the UDP runout is that it's too much, then I'll pull it and inspect the keyway.
Are all these issues related, or some of them?
Everything is about 35k miles old when I did the 3.2 swap and rebuilt the engine. I don't have a LPM or aftermarket MAF. The car has been beat on at the track pretty hard. It has broken straps on the pressure plate from the accelerator getting stuck under the floor mat, causing the engine to be off balance until it could be replaced approximately 100 miles later.
