I change a ton of stuff in the programming. I start with enviornmentals. Cooling fans, speed limiters, IMRC controls, rev limiters (in P&N too), adaptive learning functions. Then move on to tranny shifts and TC functions. I take out that agrivating TC slip with A/C function. Then I move on to power. Power is really pretty easy. It's all about the right fuel and timing. Typically, I fatten it up in the middle and lean it out on the top. Then I use MBT (Maximum Brake Torque) tables to help me with getting as much timing in as the engine will handle. There's only so much there, I'm just getting every pony out that Henry left behind (the only way to make more hp is by changing air flow thru the engine, i.e. cams, blowers, turbos, nitrous).
So in the Gen III cars, I make them go faster by squeeking out all the power that's there and making everything do the best job it can. It works too, because guys with my tuning now have fast cars that sound good, run better and are getting 2-3 more MPG.
Now, getting my tuning to the car is the cool part. The tuners are handheld units that first make an image of the factory PCM code and store it onboard. Then it erases the PCM and uploads my code into the PCM memory. When you finish (about 8min later), you're running off of my code that has been flashed into your PCM. This works on the '98 and '99 cars. As of right now, the tuners don't work on teh '96 and '97 cars (more on this next week - SCT has come out with a new tuner that might hold hope for the early Gen III cars). For them, the chips are the best bet. These chips are even capable of holding 4 separate programs (with a switch and programming upgrade).
This is the first programming tool that doesn't hack the original Ford programming. When I do a tune, I start with a box code that fits and go from there. I open the code in my program and start tuning. When I'm done, I save the whole program (not just the changes) and load either a chip or a tuner. For a chip, it contains the whole program. When you plug the chip on to the computer, it completely bypasses the factory eprom. The PCM actually boots off my chip. This means a couple of things. First off, it doesn't matter what program you've got in your factroy computer. As long as the programming artcutechture is the same, my chip will work. So it doesn't matter if you've had your computer flashed at the dealer. All I need to know is what year it is and my chip will work. So you could have a JJK2, JJK3, JJK4 and been flashed up to a KMM0 and it won't matter to me. I'm still gonna start with the same code. Same goes for AWL1, AWL2, YIY0, YIY1, it just doesn't matter for my tuning.
Another thing to remember is that when it comes to modifications, this tuning is the one to get. I can change ANY OBD-II function. I can change the way it works or turn it off completely. For example, I have long tube headers on my '96. This presents several porblems. First off, the down stream O2s. I simply turn them off. Same goes for AIS. With the long tubes, the Secondary Air Injection System doesn't get the right signals. So in the programming, I simply turn that function off. There is something called O2 Transport Delays. This is the time it takes a correction to register in the O2 sensors. For long tube headers, this function must be slowed down because the O2 sensors are farther away from the engine and it'll take longer for a fuel correction to get the needed recognition from the sensors. I can also load in different mods. For example, I also have 3.99 gears in the tranny, 30lb injectors and a 150hp nitrous system in the trunk. I simply tell the program what I've got and how I want it to act - the computer does the rest.
Guess what....it still passes emissions too.
So if you get the dreaded -Cat Efficiency Below Limits- code, I'm you're Huckleberry...whatever the he!! that means.