Subframe connectors

[speedysprocket]

Anyone know where I can get these? For my 93... Thanks!

 

[zoomlater]

I've bought two sets from Shosource

 

[SuperHO]

they're nearly impossible to buy...but you could your own out of milled unibtanium and then have them plasma welded to your car. They add so much torsional strength that trying to jack up one tire results in all 4 wheels leaving the ground.

or you could do the easy and reasonably obvious thing and US THE FVCKING SEARCH!!!!!

you're welcome.

 

[zach44102]

He is newish, give him a break. No reason to make a ass out of yourself.

 

[19sho90]

Here ya go. They have Two Options
Option one, you buy JUST the sfc's
http://shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_3_38&products_id=106
or
Option 2 you get the SFC's, Front&Rear STB, and a powdercoated H-Brace
http://shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_3_38&products_id=109

 

[SHOspazz92]

they're nearly impossible to buy...but you could your own out of milled unibtanium and then have them plasma welded to your car. They add so much torsional strength that trying to jack up one tire results in all 4 wheels leaving the ground.

or you could do the easy and reasonably obvious thing and US THE FVCKING SEARCH!!!!!

you're welcome.

What a ***** move.

 

[zach44102]

they're nearly impossible to buy...but you could your own out of milled unibtanium and then have them plasma welded to your car. They add so much torsional strength that trying to jack up one tire results in all 4 wheels leaving the ground.

or you could do the easy and reasonably obvious thing and USE THE FVCKING SEARCH!!!!!

you're welcome.

Fixed

 

[frosho]

Fixed

Still needs plenty more fixing.

 

[SuperHO]

sorry...couldnt help m'self.

 

[speedysprocket]

sorry...couldnt help m'self.

What he doesnt realize is that new conversation can be sparked by using a NEW THREAD with more current information.

Thanks to the other members who answered the question.

 

[SuperHO]

oh for the love of Pete, everybody calm down. Those who actually know me know not to take me seriously..especially you, sam. Jesus, ya'll act like I stabbed his mom with a petrified raccoon tail or something. The beginning of the post should've given away my intent.

let's all take a deep breath, step back from the keyboard, have a smoke and get back to our regularly scheduled programming.

and for what it's worth, I almost never scream out to use the search. I answer what questions I can, maybe make a silly often inappropriate comment, and move on.

that's all I hafta say about that.

 

[speedysprocket]

thanks, superho, on to scheduled programming

 

[kevinspann]

Has anyone ever tried to build something better than the standard subframe connectors? They worked pretty well on my old worn out car, but it seems like they wouldn't do much to prevent twisting of the chassis, just be flex in the middle.

 

[SuperHO]

in an attempt to redeem myself for my earlier **** foot insertion, I'll see if I can explain how they prevent twist.

the way they work is by basically adding a framerail down each side of the car. With those two "frame rails" in place, the structure of the unibody loses quite a bit of it's torsional floppiness.

I imagine the thoughts you're having is similar to cross-bracing...adding additional braces from one side of the car to the other. Agreed, they'd stiffen up the chassis that much more, but you also would run into severe ground clearance problems trying to avoid all the crap in the middle of the car.

if you're questioning the twist-resistant properties of subframe connectors, try this: place your hands flat, palms-down, with your fingertips touching. Now interlace your fingers to make a single flat pane with your hands. See how easy it is to twist them against each other? Now find two small pieces of wood, glue them to your pointer and pinkie fingers and try to twist your hands....considerably harder, isn't it?

 

[SHOspazz92]

Has anyone ever tried to build something better than the standard subframe connectors? They worked pretty well on my old worn out car, but it seems like they wouldn't do much to prevent twisting of the chassis, just be flex in the middle.

The closest thing I would have is the Roll bar in my car. Ashley also has subframe connectors, but the difference in driveway peg legging on her car, and my car is is pretty substantial.

-Sam

 

[grailgolf]

Has anyone ever tried to build something better than the standard subframe connectors? They worked pretty well on my old worn out car, but it seems like they wouldn't do much to prevent twisting of the chassis, just be flex in the middle.

I had a really stout X-member connecting the two sfc's built - It makes the car as stiff as you can make a sho or slo - friend of mine who owns an outlaw racing team designed it and his welder did all the welding. It does the job if you want the ultimate in chassis rigidity. The unit was built entirely first and then welded to the car.

 

[kevinspann]

That is exactly the kind of thing I was thinking about.

 

[Bob Gervais]

Pretty nice, and it's something I've thought about doing when I put my SFCs on this winter. A couple of design notes, of course IMNSHO.

-The "long" subframe connectors, that are miter cut then welded, are prone to cracking at the weld joint of the miter. Torsional load + weld = not a good idea. I've seen two sets (back when "Nook" made them) that had cracked welds right out of the box. Of course that was a manufacturing defect, but nonetheless... Adding fishplates to the welded miter, as well as a nice chamfer to fill in with weld at the cut joints, will make the part much stronger, and less prone to failure.

-Those crossbars are a great idea, but I think if I do that on mine, I'm going to make them so that they bolt to the SFCs, just in case I need to remove it to do exhaust work.

 

[kevinspann]

Pretty nice, and it's something I've thought about doing when I put my SFCs on this winter. A couple of design notes, of course IMNSHO.

-The "long" subframe connectors, that are miter cut then welded, are prone to cracking at the weld joint of the miter. Torsional load + weld = not a good idea. I've seen two sets (back when "Nook" made them) that had cracked welds right out of the box. Of course that was a manufacturing defect, but nonetheless... Adding fishplates to the welded miter, as well as a nice chamfer to fill in with weld at the cut joints, will make the part much stronger, and less prone to failure.

-Those crossbars are a great idea, but I think if I do that on mine, I'm going to make them so that they bolt to the SFCs, just in case I need to remove it to do exhaust work.

If they bolt in, I wonder if there is a way make them larger, so they cover the area under the gas tank. I would think if you just braced the front portion (which is reasonably strong as is) it would just twist more aft of that, if you know what I mean?

The area past where the miter joint would be in the long style, is where it seems that cross braces would be more useful.

 

[platoribs]

-Those crossbars are a great idea, but I think if I do that on mine, I'm going to make them so that they bolt to the SFCs, just in case I need to remove it to do exhaust work.

Wait, are you saying I might have to work on the car after James does...??? WTF!