sub problem

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munkee

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You know how the song goes, someone kicked a hole in my speaker, and when I try to use it they pull the plug and jet. Yeah, anyway. I bought a 10" pioneer sub on ebay that had a crack in the cone. Needless to say I got it for a good deal and was able to repair the crack quite easily with some fiberglass. Now when I try to use it though it shuts off the amplifier. I thought it was a short at first but it plays lower volume just fine. It isn't until it starts to thump a little that it shuts the amp off, about 1/3 volume and up. Is it shorting or is it something else? Thanks, Chris.
 

Blue-By-U

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It's definitely a wiring issue. What kind of amp are you running? How did you wire the sub (resistance)? Check all of your connections. I could definitely use more information. Good luck!
 

30footSHO

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Chris, have you got a link to the auction, or perhaps a serial/model number for the sub? Like Alex said, we could use some more info. Hope your projects are coming along nicely, BTW. How's the paint on that black pearl '90 looking?
 

munkee

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I am using a Profile CA440 amp. I have it hooked up to a 12" pioneer TS-W34C right now and I don't have any problems.(except for trunk vibration thumb ) The speaker I am having problems with is a TS-W28C 10" 400W max. It doesn't list the impedance on the ebay site. I tried it in my other car that has been running a 10" sub for a few years and it does the same thing. I believe both systems are 4ohm. Im not sure of how to check that. I spent the money on a rockford fosgate install kit and about 9 hours running the wire and installing the amp. If the wiring is half *** it isn't for lack of effort.

David, the ebay item number is 3070131566. I am hoping to start on my turbo project before spring rolls around but I have to get rid of some parts cars first. My Black pearl 90 adheres strongly to the 30 foot rule thumb ! It looks pretty sharp until you get close, then you can see all the flaws. Oh well, it was my first paintjob. Hopefully the next one will be better. Thanks for the help guys.
 

30footSHO

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Heh. Thought maybe you touched up those spots of undercoat that were showing through. I suppose paint booth time is at a premium still, eh?

I am guessing that the W28C is a 4 ohm SVC model; the closest I see on the Pioneer website is the W29C, which is a low-end 4 ohm model, 400W max. The sub would have DVC in its model # if it was a DVC.

Make sure you check that you are not overloading the amp; if you have access to another, lower power amp, give that a try. Check that your ground is on clean metal, and that the positives and negatives are correctly connected.

What size wire are you using for power, and what size for speaker wire?

Dave
 

munkee

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The power wire is 6 gauge and the speaker wire I believe is 16 gauge. I will go over the connections again today.
 

30footSHO

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munkee:
The power wire is 6 gauge and the speaker wire I believe is 16 gauge. I will go over the connections again today.
I would try to up the speaker wire size if I were you. I used at least 12 gauge for my 10s, possibly 10 gauge. Try to get the oxygen-free wire, it's the best. You shouldn't have any problems with the 6 gauge power and ground wire.
 

yamahaSHO

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Blackheart4355:
How do you know if your factory sub is working? My base is up pretty high and I don't get any thumping......

Should I??
Put your ear up to it...
 

30footSHO

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yamahaSHO:
Blackheart4355:
How do you know if your factory sub is working? My base is up pretty high and I don't get any thumping......

Should I??
Put your ear up to it...
If it doesn't thump loud enough, just hit your head on it harder.

FYI, not all SHOs had JBL systems. Mine came with base premium sound, no sub. If your speaker grilles have no JBL logo on them, you have no sub unless someone retrofitted the JBL system in there. Usually you can see the outline of the speaker grille in the rear package shelf as well.
 

30footSHO

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Blackheart4355:
it does have jbl sound
Well, basically, the problem is either that your sub does not work, or that it's just too damn small. 8" is not exactly a powerful size!
 

yamahaSHO

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30footSHO:
Blackheart4355:
it does have jbl sound
Well, basically, the problem is either that your sub does not work, or that it's just too damn small. 8" is not exactly a powerful size!
The stock sub is 6.5"... There is a noticeable difference with and without it. Yes, nice 8" will kick...
 

30footSHO

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munkee:
The protection light comes on. Didn't realize that at first.
Then I believe your sub is too powerful for the amp. Those profiles are not exactly hot performers. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but I'm guessing that somehow his amp is reading 2 ohms instead of 4, and that is what is causing the amp to overload and go into protection mode.

Looks like it's time to get on ebay again and look for an amp.

yamahaSHO - You got me there! I should have remembered all the talk about the JL 6w0 retrofittings on SHOtimes. oh
 

shoRunner

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the profile amps, while not top of the line, are not that bad. they are a average budget amp. The sub is a SVC 4ohm and the amp is 2ohm stable per channel, so i don't know of any way you could hook it up wrong...there could be something internally wrong with the amp...or speaker possible since it was already damaged. i'd try hooking up another speaker to the amp and seeing if it runs ok.
 

Tunez

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He said his 12" runs fine so I am guessing it would be in the sub itself. You said some one punched a hole in the sub as well. If it was hit hard enough it could have damaged the voice coil as well. At low volume there would not be enough travel to cause problems. But once the sub starting moving more, it could.

Also, make sure that the tinsel leads from the terminals to the inside of the speaker arent loose or touching the metal basket anywhere. That is another common cause of problems and different volumes.

Lastly, someone here said your amp is 2ohm stable per channel which does not in any way mean that it is stable at 2ohms in a briged mode. 2ohms per channel at stereo is common in almost all amps, but an amp that can handle a 1hom load briged is not as common.

If the sub is 8ohm, that would not be a problem, it would just not play at the full potential of the amp.

If you want to verify the ohm load, get out a multimeter. Select the ohm setting that is closest to 10 or just the ohm setting if is reads all at one setting. Unhook the speaker from the amp and test between the positive and negative. Make sure the cone is at rest and not pressed in or sitting on anything. Cone movement will make the reading change. You will not get an exact 2,4, or 8 but it will be real close to one of them. Let's go from there and see what you find.
 

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