Strange noises

[slowstuff]

So I've had the SHO for a couple weeks now & I've noticed a few things that need a little TLC, but one thing has me a little worried.

Whenever I start moving there is the sound of jingling keys, or like a chain is slightly dragging on the ground or something. I think I've noticed it other times while lightly accelerating from 20 or 30 mph w/ the windows down, but it's hard to tell over the wind & road noise. It is very apparent when starting from a dead stop & accelerating slowly, the noise vanishes by 2k rpm though, and doesn't stay even if I hold it at 1500rpm, it goes away after a couple of seconds.

The car has 160K miles on it, cams are NOT welded. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[kit352]

good lord check the cams.. now.. stop reading and check..

 

[slowstuff]

good lord check the cams.. now.. stop reading and check..

Are you saying that because this fits the beggining stages of cam failure ? Or just because they haven't been welded ? I bought the car a few weeks ago & haven't found someone to weld them.

I'll see about pulling the intake & valve covers today so I can check on them.

 

[kit352]

any odd noise that sounds like a cam or chain dragging is highly suspect. given the history of these cars it is something that sould be looked at asap. noises are a warning sign but sometimes they just let go.

 

[slowstuff]

With it raining most of the day yesterday I didn't have enough time to check the cams. I got the intake off, but since I have to drive the car tomorrow I ended up just putting it all back together today.

is anyone hear from central ohio, ie columbus, or know of someplace within 2 hours of columbus I could go to get the cams welded ?

 

[JoesSHO]

Some of you guys need to get more information before suggesting to the poor guy that his car is going to blow up because the cams are not welded... Yes there is a history, yes it's an issue, but- if the cams are so far gone that the cam chain sounds like it is dragging on the ground, it wouldn't be running at all.

I take it that you have checked things like your e-brake linkages or anything underneath that may be blowing in the wind and bouncing off metal parts under the car?

 

[slowstuff]

I did check under the car, and for anthing loose around the engine bay or around the front suspension. But I didn't check the e-brake linkage... how/ wherewould I look to see if it was loose or broken ?

 

[JoesSHO]

PM sent with some info

 

[slowstuff]

So I got the intake cleaned some, put everythign back together, and sicne then it hasn't seemed right. The idle was a little off all day reving up and down several hundred RPMs. So I checked all the vaccume lines, I broke a T connector and the only one I had was slightly smaller so I though it might have been leaking. I sealed that up, and took it for a drive & it was worse than ever. The idle was staying around 1200, and reving to 2000 RPMs, I got home double checked the vac lines again. I started the car again and now it's extremely hard to start & the car revs straight to 3k once it does start...

I wouldn't think the engine could pull enough air from a vacume leak, even one of the larger hoses to stay steady at 3k.... It's not missing or rough or anything either... I'm gonna check the TB & linkage for binding i geuss, but I don't know what could be causing this new problem.... RRRR

 

[slowstuff]

So, when the engine is cold it idels fine for several minutes, then as it warms up the idle climbs.

I checked the TB & linkage, looked for any loose hoses and found nothing. With it Idling arounf 1500 RPMs I sprayed TB Cleaner at every hose, clamp, and connection I could find. Nothing, popped open the intake filter, sprayed a little in there & the idle dropped for a second.

I took it around the block & it's def. getting air from somewhere but I have no idea where. It would accelerate on it's own, shift & keep accelerating. It wasn't all that slow either. If I gave it gas the engine would rev up & stay at whatever RPM I took my foot off at. It would slowly fall but the car would still be accelerating on it's own.

So knowing I took off and cleaned the UIM / Surge tank and TB what could I be missing. Please just list anything that comes to mind, I really need to get this fixed.\

-edit- Forgot to mention, once the car has been running a few minutes, if you **** it-it won't start again till it cools down. It doesn't diesel or anything, dies quickly, but the idle goes crazy while running, 1500RPMs & revs to 2000-3000 RPMs then drops back down.

 

[ThatShoGuy]

So, when the engine is cold it idels fine for several minutes, then as it warms up the idle climbs.

I checked the TB & linkage, looked for any loose hoses and found nothing. With it Idling arounf 1500 RPMs I sprayed TB Cleaner at every hose, clamp, and connection I could find. Nothing, popped open the intake filter, sprayed a little in there & the idle dropped for a second.

I took it around the block & it's def. getting air from somewhere but I have no idea where. It would accelerate on it's own, shift & keep accelerating. It wasn't all that slow either. If I gave it gas the engine would rev up & stay at whatever RPM I took my foot off at. It would slowly fall but the car would still be accelerating on it's own.

So knowing I took off and cleaned the UIM / Surge tank and TB what could I be missing. Please just list anything that comes to mind, I really need to get this fixed.\

-edit- Forgot to mention, once the car has been running a few minutes, if you **** it-it won't start again till it cools down. It doesn't diesel or anything, dies quickly, but the idle goes crazy while running, 1500RPMs & revs to 2000-3000 RPMs then drops back down.

did your reseal the egr part that hooks to the plenum???? thats a pretty big open hole... wonder if its your prob?

 

[JoesSHO]

Is your TPS hooked up? (The harness)

 

[NebraskaSHO]

Did you check your gaskets when you removed the intake. They can be repainted with black engine paint and reused as long as there are no cracks in the metal. Recheck the tightness of the bolts in the runners and to the LIM.

 

[SHOZ123]

The silicon hoses that connect the intake together can get cut if over tightened.

As far as the TPS you can check this with a voltmeter. It should read ~.92V-.98V with the key on engine off. And as you slowly open the throttle by hand the voltage should evenly raise to ~4.5V. Any sudden jumps would point to a bad TPS. But if the voltage is good at idle then that's probably not the problem.

Did you actually remove the TB or just take the 90 with the TB off as one piece?

 

[98BLKSHO]

Sounds like the TP sensor connector ford had an old TSB for it when hot it would short and cause high idle. There is a repair kit for it TSB number 00-3-5 part number is XF1Z-15K607-AB which is still available from dealers.

 

[slowstuff]

So after checking the TPS, I tore everything apart again & put it back together a second time. It idles fine now :woohoo: but the O/D OFF light started flashing on the first time around the block. It hasn't come on since but I do have a SES light now... ugh. I'll have to get the code read sometime this week, I think I might get rid of the car in the next month or so if this kind of stuff keeps up.

on the bright side I did find the rattleing noise, but it had nothing to do with anything I touched....

 

[SHOZ123]

Thanks for letting us know what the problem was.

 

[slowstuff]

Thanks for letting us know what the problem was.

I really have no idea what the problem was w/ the idle ....

The rattling noise was from the exhaust, even though nothing seemed loose. But w/ the car running & warmed up a bit I took a peak under the car & there was a ring at the beginning of a flexpipe the was vibrating & spinning.... all that work for nothing lol