Still no start.

[shoracer]

Cranks and cranks, tach moves and show rpms as starter turn over. Volts at coil drop to 7.76 volts when trying to start. The other wire going into the coil have very low volt, about .179 volts. There is no spark at all. Fuel pump works and there is pressure. None of the wire are broken that I have tested. Changed out different CID, no change. I had been doing about 150 mph(no speed limiter) on local road earler in day(x-mas day, no one on road for miles.) Car drove fine after I got off HWY. Leave my in-laws about 5 hours later and car bucked twice about 5 minutes after I left their house. Then about a minute down the road car shut off. I put the car back in gear to start the motor and it would not restart.

Now the LPM I have would cause the same problem after I would let it sit over night. It would crank and crank but no start. Pull the LPM out and it would start right away.

Sorry long.

 

[RI-SHO]

Sounds like a timing issue just like my SHO had, I tried replacing everything before I checked the timing and set it back correctly and it started on the first crank after that.

You should defitnaly reset your timing and check the tensioner while your at it.

I would also say it could be a fuel injector because mine cut out at 140MPH in 4th with some crazy bucking/surging. But it also started every crank, it just idled very hard/low making the oil light flicker it was so low.

 

[shoracer]

Did you have spark to the plugs when this happened? I hope I would have spark even if I jumped time, but I must remember Ford built this car.

 

[projectSHO89]

Yamaha built the engine, not Ford. Ford then inflicted it with the EEC-IV control system....

It is not hard to test the coil. Here's how I would do it:

Connect a timing light to the # 5 plug wire.

Use a tie-wrap around the trigger to keep it engaged, then point the light
at myself while working.

Disconnect connector C1 from the DIS. C1 is the connector with 5 wires.
(It's cold and I'm not putting shoes and a coat on to go out and look to see
if it's the front or rear connector).

With the ignition in RUN, measure the DC voltage at each of the C1 pins
listed below. You should measure Vbat at each of them. Any reading of 0
volts indicates an open circuit, either in the coil or in the wiring.

You can also test the function of each of the coils in the coil pack along
with the interconnecting wiring. With the ignition in RUN, momentarily
ground the wire that runs from the DIS to the coil pack for the #1 and # 5
plugs. Repeat the test for the other two coils.

Per the schematics, the wiring and coils are as follows:

Y-K Coil 1 Plugs 1 & 5
Y-R Coil 2 Plugs 3 & 4
Y-W Coil 3 Plugs 2 & 6

If the coil pack and the wire connections are all good, the timing light
will fire indicating that the coil fired. If you have verified that you are
on the correct wire and get no flash, you have either an open wire or a bad
coil. If all the coils test good, the problem is likely to be the DIS
module. Before condemning it, check the grounding bolts where the crossover
tube mounts to the engine and check the grounding cable that runs from the
intake mounting bracket bolt to the firewall.

Have fun.

Steve

 

[shoracer]

Thanks, I will play with those ideas. I made sure the DIS has good ground and I have checked it about 20 time with voltmeter. Worried it will be something that easy and I miss it.

Any one else with ideas let me know.

 

[revhardSHO]

Definitly test the coil...

Ive had a similar problem which turned out to be the CPS. Car would run fine then shut off for no reason. Usually it would start back up after an hour or so....but a couple times it didnt start for a few days! Turns out the CPS was shorting out and telling the computer the engine wasnt turning over. Come to think of it i cant remember if the tach was working when i tried to start it... but this seems to be a problem that manifests itself in a few different ways.

just a suggestion

 

[shoracer]

Ok I am down to only the PCM and CPS being replaced with other known working ign piece. I got another PCM to test with from friend and I am going to run ground strap from battery to intake(just to be sure). I heard some one say that if your CEL stays on will cranking the PCM is not getting a good signal from the CPS. Is this true and has an one have a failed CPS that still showed rpm on tach?

 

[revhardSHO]

Is this true and has an one have a failed CPS that still showed rpm on tach?

Yes, come to think out it my tach was showing RPM when i was cranking the starter. Must of been giving a week signal to the PIP? Im not sure.

silas

 

[shoracer]

Has any one else had this happen. Wondering how common. Just test known working PCM, and still no go, so off to pickup CPS.

 

[yamahaSHO]

When my friends 90 did not start, he found his problem to be the DIS on the crossover tube to be bad.

 

[shoracer]

Here goes nothing. Going to try to get it to start with new CPS.

 

[shoracer]

I hate you CPS. You suck. You are cursed to **** and the Autozone you came from. You are no worse than a cheating wife. May you be inflicted with the fleas of a thousand camel and your crops barren. in the voice of Chalston Heston, "Damn you, you stick dirty rotten CPS".

So I guess that the CPS can fail and still show rpms, thanks FORD. Thank goodness I have a WRX STi or order. It will be so much easer to hit the 11 sec range.