Still issues!

[chrism3784]

I'm about fed up with this car. Thinking its fuel, I changed the fuel pump to a nice walbro one from shosource. Changed filter and bought brand new fuel pressure regulator. The lagging the car had stopped. But the stalling out with check engine and battery light flashing on remains.

Sometimes I can get it to cut off then on by pushing the pedal in and out quickly, it will cut off for a second or two and cut back on. Check engine and battery light flashing on when it happens. I'm pretty much out of ideas.

DIS, cam sensor, crank sensor, coil, ecu all been changed. All the grounds as far as I can see are on tight and good. It seems to be giving the crank sensor failure symptoms. Think it could be the timing sprocket somehow? Maybe the veins got messed up? It seemed fine when I changed it out 2 weeks ago thinks that was it. Any other ideas?

 

[zach44102]

Whats the codes?

 

[chrism3784]

Only getting one code, and it only happens during the test when the cars running, 538 - Insufficient RPM change
during Dynamic Response
Test

 

[shoon]

Sounds like an IAB issue. Try cleaning the IAB, or see if you can get your hands on a spare to swap out. Guessing it only stalls at idle?

 

[chrism3784]

Changed out, cleaned entire intake spotless. I think you get that code if you dont push the gas during the testing. I just hope this has nothing to do with "crank cancer". When I changed the crank sensor I didn't notice anything unusual about the sprocket. But I didn't pay as much attention to that. Maybe the sensor is not held on right or the gap changed. I'm going to take it all apart, even crank sprocket and check it all out. maybe the veins on that sprocket are bad, can't tell till its out.

Anyone know easiest way to remove crank sprocket? I'm guessing a small puller with timing cover bolts.

 

[SHOtime2511]

You seem to be over thinking this.
Start simple checking battery cables,power for the CCRM and grounds.
Make sure to check the connection for the ECU you just changed.

 

[chrism3784]

Good, good, good. Tried something out just now. I unplugged the cam sensor while engine was idling. At first nothing seemed to changed. Looked in car, check engine one, and tach still worked fine. So tach is from crank sensor!! Not cam. To clear that up.

I plugged back in and unplugged quickly, bucked then went to normal. So if I unplug the cam sensor and plug in back and forth it would give those symptoms, incl check engine light. When plugged back in check engine light would go off. So now I have a place to look, cam sensor! Can't be crank sens because the tach always works during these misfiring the car does.

 

[chrism3784]

Went to advance and got a brand new camshaft sensor, installed on the spot, same thing. Changed out DIS again, same. I'm going to take pulley side of engine apart again and furthur investigate the crank sensor area. If it has crank cancer, wouldn't the tac still work, just the timing go off enough to trip check engine and make the car buck some?

 

[chrism3784]

Think I found it. Went to take the crank off, come to find the bolt I can remove by hand, I remember tightening it good but must not have. I took the belts off and all the timing covers off, crank off. I don't have crank cancer, it all looked good there. But I have noticed I can move the crank sprocket back and forth ever so slightly. Maybe thats what causing it. don't know for sure since the tach still worked during error. Looking at the wiring diagrams, the tach signal comes from the DIS, so maybe as long as one of the cam or crank sensors work, you got tach signal.

Since the crank bolt wasn't tight, the crank sprocket was able to move freely back and forth a tiny bit between the pulley. This would lead to crank cancer if kept on going. When the sprocket moved slightly forward the sensor couldn't read the veins, till it jumped back. I'm hoping this is the problem.

I'm going to get a puller and pull the sprocket out to check for damage behind. May change front main while at it. I'm going to also take crank sensor off and put and very thin washer behind it to move it slightly forward. Then I'll put the sprocket on all the way and see if it doesn't touch the crank sensor since the sensor will be a tiny but closer. Gap it right and put all back together installing the pulley bolt super tight this time and checking every so often. I have that underdrive pulley so is probably one of the reason I'm having tightening issues.

 

[rubydist]

DO NOT put a steel washer behind the crank sensor! if you notice, the crank sensor mounts to an aluminum piece, and it is mounted with stainless (non-magnetic) screws. if you put a steel washer behind it, you run the risk of the sensor thinking the vane is always in the sensor window, so you will get no signal.

 

[SHOtime2511]

Don't rig things.
The crank sensor does not need a washer,just install it the way it was from the factory.

 

[chrism3784]

Ok, I replaced those screws the sensor normally came with. I used little bolts instead, never was a problem with that, did it years ago when the engine was in the 90 sho. Maybe suddenly that became a problem? Going to junkyard now, I'll try to get new screws from it.

Took sprocket out, all is good, no crank cancer at all. Now I have to wait for my front main seal, which is leaking!, to come in tuesday.

 

[chrism3784]

Took the timing sprocket out, cleaned it, changed front main seal while at it. Put all back together tightening everything correct, gapped crank sensor correct. Took on test drive and still does the same exact thing.

I'm just completely out of ideas!

 

[jmpSHO2nd]

Are there any codes? Have you tries swapping PCMs?
Quan ao http://doxinh.com/danh-muc/quan-ao-thoi-trang/ Do so sinh gia re Chup anh tre em o ha noi Shop do lot Ban si quan ao Ban si quan ao

 

[SHOtime2511]

Did you buy a new IAC valve?

 

[rubydist]

Did you buy a new IAC valve?

^^ This. let us know how it runs after you change the iac.

 

[shoon]

see post 4 and 5, think he already swapped it out.

 

[chrism3784]

idle air? its not an idle issue at all. You mean the mass air, yeah, changed. DIS changed 3 different spares I have, all the same. Cam & crank sensor both changed new. Coil was changed. PCM changed. Fuel pump changed new and pressure sensor changed new. Maybe its the injectors, maybe a bad one. I put brand new ones in a year ago, don't see why it would be them. I even tested a wire that turns all those things on, it says lit even when car messes up.

Everything under that hood beside the internal engine and coil is all new. I have two coil packs, a spare one. Does same thing with either or. What are chances I could have 2 bad coils?

Any other ideas? I'm down to pretty much 2 more options, take out the entire engine harness and examine any fuel and ignition system wire, or just drive it as is. It is pretty bad sometimes and makes driving pretty embarrassing. It always does it at the times I need the most power. Sometimes so bad it cuts on and off on and off simultaniously.

 

[rubydist]

Chris, would you slow down and clearly describe your symptoms? because how I read what you have written so far sounds like a sticking iac.

 

[SHOtime2511]

I had an IAC go out on my old 91,it can cause some crazy shit to happen.
It does alot more than control idle...