Steering Knuckle to Ball Joint attachment

[220ksho]

Ok, we've all seen this problem, where the ball joint stud is loose inside of the pinch joint. My question is, has anyone tried to grind the inside of the 'ears' a little to get a tighter pinch instead of finding a replacement knuckle in the dead of winter?

I've also thought about welding in a crescent shaped shim in the hole.

 

[Bob Gervais]

IIRC SHO vs. SLO ball joint studs were slightly different, the SHO unit was a little larger in size. Or maybe it was just a cheapy LCA vs. a quality one.

But at any rate, I imagine grinding some out of the slot will work for the time being, or using some shim stock in the hole to tighten things up.

I'm not so sure I'd use the grinding method though, kinda hard to calculate the risk of the fatigued casting....

 

[220ksho]

Hmm, so you're saying I may have a SLO control arm assy? I hadn't thought about that. It's possible. Thanks for the reply.

 

[sperold]

It would help to see up into the tapered hole.
Shimming has gone out of fashion in this machine age because parts are comparitively cheap, but that doesn't mean it doesn't work.
If the hole is still round and evenly tapered, it has a good chance of being shimmed.
Finding shim stock will be a challenge, and I would keep an eye on it daily for the first few weeks.
One test would be to crank it into position with the shim, then back off the nut and see if it remains seated like a correctly fitting joint and withstands a shot from a 5 pound hammer without releasing.

 

[Bob Gervais]

Hmm, so you're saying I may have a SLO control arm assy? I hadn't thought about that. It's possible. Thanks for the reply.

It is possible. I know the LCA's are SHO specific, and I know the castings are heavier, but I can't remember if the actual stud was larger or not.

 

[sperold]

They keep saying the SHO had the upgraded "Police Suspension Package" and by that you don't know if it is an upgrade in materials or if size comes into it. Sounds like size came into it.

 

[220ksho]

The LCA's are definitely the correct ones. (non-SLO)

Here's a pic of the underside of the ball joint stud hole in the knuckle. It looks to have a nice consistent taper. There's not much of a gap to start with between the ears in it's relaxed state. I'm thinking I can get away with shaving a little material from each side to obtain a tight pinch. What do you guys think?

 

[93rev2sev]

Th knuckle is already compromised since it's already stretched, so grinding a bit of clearance should be fine as a TEMP FIX. You really need another knuckle and you do NOT want a failure at speed.

Don't overtighten it...I think it only calls for about 45 lbs.

 

[gmorrell]

The LCA's are definitely the correct ones. (non-SLO)

It looks to have a nice consistent taper.

The OEM hole has no taper, if yours has a taper, the knuckle is done, you should replace it for your own safety.

The only Ford OEM difference between the SHO and SLO LCA was rubber bushing durometer: The SHO bushings were stiffer to control toe changes and lessen the effects of torque steer. Any changes in the appearance or cross-section of the forging was probably due to different part vendors or running design changes/cost thrifting.

Don't overtighten it...I think it only calls for about 45 lbs.

X2

 

[220ksho]

Thanks everyone. I opened the gap to 1/8" and was able to tighten the stud with about 60 ft-lbs on the nut.

I will look for a new knuckle asap.

 

[K-Dawg]

Might be a good time to upgrade the knuckles and brakes.