Steering Componet problem...help!!!

[RI-SHO]

Well today on the way to mall on the hwy, i was cruising at 70MPH when I see a huge "BUMP" sign on breakdown lane than bam the whole car dips down from paved road to grooved hwy. That was the good part then about a 1/2mile after I slowed to 50MPH and yet again i miss the "BUMP" more like a huge dip from grooved to paved road and thats what really shook me especially with my stiff suspesnion, I mashed the brakes and swerved straight to the breakdown lane but i made it down to 40MPH and hit pretty damn hard. At that point I pretty just thought after 2yrs of driving with the 18's I had bent/warped one of them, but later tonite when I checked them off the car they are ok but something else isnt. Now when I turn the steering wheel about 1/2 a turn left from the center I get clunk/pop sound from the left-front wheel area, nothing seems to be bent, except I cant tell visibly whats wrong with it when compared to the right side.

Now what do you guys think it could be? The bump also knocked my alignment out real bad, it pulls right hard, defitnaly time for an aligment tmw.

<small>[ July 22, 2002, 10:18 PM: Message edited by: RI-SHO ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

The alignment won't fix the problem. The alignment changed because something is either bent or broken. You need to find it.

 

[RI-SHO]

sdpatt:
The alignment won't fix the problem. The alignment changed because something is either bent or broken. You need to find it.

Well I forgot to mention the alignment was off a bit before this incident but not its just plain 'ole off. I guess i'll find out tmw what the tire shop says is wrong with it. Thx for the quick reply.

 

[pete c]

Well, I hate to say I told you so, but...

I bet you were thinkin' a little more sidewall would come in handy right about now as you nailed that shit! BTW, where were you. I just got back from the cape this afternoon and spent about 45 minutes parked on 495 which is under construction.

As for the car, have someone crank the wheel from stop to stop as you look/listen.

One other recommendation. If you are gonna keep this thing for a while, go to firestone and pay the 200 bucks approx. for a lifetime alignment. That way you can bring it in whenever you hit something or replace anything in the front end. I have done this to both my slos and do not regret it.

 

[RI-SHO]

pete c:
Well, I hate to say I told you so, but...

I bet you were thinkin' a little more sidewall would come in handy right about now as you nailed that shit! BTW, where were you. I just got back from the cape this afternoon and spent about 45 minutes parked on 495 which is under construction.

As for the car, have someone crank the wheel from stop to stop as you look/listen.

One other recommendation. If you are gonna keep this thing for a while, go to firestone and pay the 200 bucks approx. for a lifetime alignment. That way you can bring it in whenever you hit something or replace anything in the front end. I have done this to both my slos and do not regret it.

Not really i've broken anything thats wheel related for ova 2yrs, until now!!! squint Damn contruction was on 95N near exit 30 in RI where it merges to MA exit 2A-2B. Where the **** is this lifetime aligment deal? Never heard of just a "firestone" store/garage. I usually get $20 alignments at a local town fair tire where I bought my rims from, they make about $100 off me every 6mths.

MA needs bigger orange "BUMP" signs!!!!

<small>[ July 23, 2002, 12:19 AM: Message edited by: RI-SHO ]</small>

 

[pete c]

you never heard of firestone tire stores? they are everywhere. Town fair is a good place to buy tires cheap, but, the last time I was there some knucklehead took about 45 minutes to get a stripped locking lug nut off. I was real close to grabbing the impact out of his hand and telling him to getdafukkoutta my way, I'll do it myself.

Definitely go to firestone. I know you got them somewhere nearby. If not, take a little ride to vernon ct, it's only an hour or so.

 

[pete c]

http://www.firestonetire.com/storelocator/index.htm

Looks like they got a few locations in your area.

 

[RI-SHO]

pete c:
http://www.firestonetire.com/storelocator/index.htm

Looks like they got a few locations in your area.

Haha I have been to one near me on Broadway st., now I remember, they wouldnt do my car b/c it was lowered and the rims were too big squint . Thats why I usually stick with town fair tire b/c they sell/deal with 24" rims, so anything smaller is "regular" to them. But I have to agree with you on there workers, some just seem like they work there for a paycheck and never learned anything about cars.

Would it be too much of pain in the ass for you to find out if the one near you deals with larger rims? Because I know most "generic" places dont b/c of there alignment equipment only being able to work on 13"-16" rims.

 

[pete c]

Do you still have your slicers? Throw them on (and leav'em!!!) and go down there. An alignment is the same no matter the rim size. They may still tell you to get lost because it's lowered, but, it's worth a shot.

 

[projectSHO89]

Sounds like you busted a tie rod end.

Hold onto the joint while someone turns the wheel slowly back and forth through the problem area, you will feel the joint pop in your hand and will see the steering shaft jump when it pops.

Check the inners, too. A bad outer is easy to find and will often mask a bad inner.

BTDT.

Steve

 

[RI-SHO]

What tools do I need to do the outer tie rod end? Because I remember on my friends car he needed a special air tool. Are there any specialty tool requied for the SHO?

 

[projectSHO89]

Inspect them first to see if you need them replaced.

You will need pliers to remove the cotter pin, an adjustable (or the proper sized one) wrench to back off the jam nut, a socket and breaker bar to remove the nut from the TRE, a hammer to pop the TRE out of the LCA, then it will screw off.

Plan on a front end alignment when you finish.

Steve
89

 

[pete c]

Go to AZ, buy the ENTIRE TIE ROD!!!!! If you change just one end, you are an idjit, IMHO. It doesn't cost much more. While there borrow their ball joint fork and tie rod removal tool for popping the old outter end out of the steering knuckle. You actually buy it, but get a full refund when you return it. It is just a big ass deep socket. Also buy new inner/outter boots. Before removing the old tie rod, check for a set screw in the side of the nut at the inner end. Look at your new tie rod, you'll see what I mean. If you have said set screw loosen it before removing old tie rod. I didn't once, made taking the old one off real fun. I would also consider doing the other side at this time. When I moved back to ct, to get my slo through state inspection, I had to do both sides. I had no idea they were bad, until I replaced them, the difference was amazing.

<small>[ July 24, 2002, 12:01 AM: Message edited by: pete c ]</small>

 

[RI-SHO]

AutoZone only carries the tie rod end, is there any other place where I can get the full tie rod?(other than a dealer)

<small>[ July 24, 2002, 12:21 AM: Message edited by: RI-SHO ]</small>

 

[pete c]

I have gotten the entire thing from AZ for my slo. I would think it was the same for a sho. Check ACME if you havethem. I have had good luck getting hard to find stuff through them.

 

[projectSHO89]

Tie rod ends only come as inners or outers.

If you have to do both of the inners, you're almost better off replacing the rack, since they are included along with the boots (inner only, there are no outer boots on a R & P steering setup). A newly reman'd rack is only 80 bucks for non-VAPS Gen 1 cars.

The inner TRE includes the threaded shaft that screws into the outer.

A diagram of it is here: http://www.shotimes.com/images/trwsteering.jpg

Steve
89

 

[pete c]

Looks as if the sho tie rods are different from the slo. Not sure why though.

 

[JaySHOguy]

Edien, I would check all 4 of the subframe bushings... My '97 SHO had two bad ones, and my daily driven '90 SLO has 3 bad ones. Wicked clunking noises... Jack the car up, and watch to see if the subframe drops any. If it does, time to replace them..

 

[AutoXSHO]

Nope, SHO/SLO tie rods are the same. I think we have a difference in terms. The rack is connected to an inner tie rod end, which is threaded and screwed onto the tie rod, which goes out towards the wheel and connects to the spindle via the outer tie rod end.

If the alignment is that far off, check the tie rods. If they're not bent (a small bend can cause major alignment issues) then the subframe shifted, sorry. Look to see if your camber is unbalanced from side to side.

Aligning the SF is not a big deal, but it's a PITA without a frame lift and no local shop will know how to do it.

I bet you bent a tie rod. FWIW, tie rods are not wear items, so they technically never have to be replaced... only if they get bent.

John V

<small>[ July 25, 2002, 08:43 AM: Message edited by: AutoXSHO ]</small>

 

[pete c]

I beg to differ. Tierod ends are ball and socket joints. They can and do wear. It is a gradual thing that you don't really notice ....until you replacew them.

RI, If the sho/slo tierods are the same (and I don't see why they wouldn't be) try getting one and compare it to yours. I bought a set for the slo last year from AZ. I don't see why they wouldn't have them now.