STB's

[1slickRED89]

hey guys, sorry if you have already seen this but i think every one should get a set of these. they work exceptionally well. it requires a little modifiaction to fit the rear bar but are defintly worth the $25 price. every taurus should have these.

the front one falls on to the intermost strut retaining bolt. however the rear bar needs to have the mounting points bent to about 95-100 degrees in respect to the rest of the bar then bolted (with the sup[plied bolts) to the back of the strut tower down an inch form the top of the tower. drilling required and you will need 2 kits for the front and back.

i told my freind DAN, who has a 90 SHO about them he said the diffrence for him was night and day. my experience was similar, could be better without the basket-weave wheels.

Visit the GM Parts Direct website at http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ and search for part number 12456148. original author was "Axianator"

Corey
89SHO

if some one could share the the PN# of the GTP control arms i would be very greatful. thanks.

 

[jthomas68]

I assume you`re talking about the rear control arms.The adjustable control arms can be made from stock arms off of a Regal.They need to be cut about 1" shorter and re tapped.I`m not sure of what years or makes though.

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Jeremy Thomas
Modified 91+

 

[RStalveyARFF]

they definitely have to be newer than 87, because those still had RWD

 

[TwiceSHOwn]

He is talking about Strut Tower Braces...the ones made for a regal can be adapted to fit our cars...

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********
93 Silver ATX 57K
LPM
80MM MAF
Y Pipe
Eibach + Tokikos
Front and Rear STBs
Cold air snorkel
TCE SHO stopper brakes
Due for its 60K sigh...

 

[1slickRED89]

Drivenhard said something about ajustable tubular rear lower control arms from a GTP fiting a SHO, but i don't have a part number. the reason i ask is because i have 8 ajustable bushing in my stock arms now and they are close to being maxed, so i want some more ajustabilty and rigidity.

anyhow the strut tower braces work, and are highly recomended. if you don't have STB's get these. $25 is pocket change in the world of SHO Modification.

Corey
89SHO

 

[jthomas68]

Yup,the GTP and the Regal are the same basic platform.There are a few cars i`d trade the SHO for,and the the supercharged Regal is one of them.

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Jeremy Thomas
Modified 91+

 

[90MTXSHO]

Originally posted by 1slickRED89:
anyhow the strut tower braces work, and are highly recomended. if you don't have STB's get these.

Eh, how much welding is required?

(i need to learn how to weld...)

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Clint
90 Elec. Red SHO
My Pimpin Webpage

 

[hanshua]

hey I got these, but havent had a chance to install them yet...

Can you be a little more explanitory on the rear install... I'm not quite sure how to do it...

It dosent bolt to the top of the struts?? and how was that 95-100 degree bend?? is it a twist, or an up and down bend?

and on the front, you just bolt it on as is?



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-Justin

95 ATX
K&N Silencer-Coneless, SFC's, two 12" kenwoods w/ 600watt amp and sony CD, CincySHO Cowl Hood, Removed secondary silencers, TPR bushings.

Comming Attractions: New 17" wheels (need rubber for them), SS y-pipe, new springs to fix my sagging rear, 24/26mm sway bars, Strut Tower Braces, Yamaha Badges

 

[1slickRED89]

Clint: there is drilling and bending required, but no welding.

i picked up a "mitghy might" 110v stick welder at a garage sale for a few bucks. it's a great tool to learn with. it will teach you patients, the first time it took me 2 hours to get an arc.

hanshua: let me get some pictures taken for you. how do you like my WORD2000 rendering, pretty funny but it works.

i'll email anyone with pictures. anybody else try them yet?


Corey
89SHO



[This message has been edited by 1slickRED89 (edited 10-31-2001).]

 

[90MTXSHO]

sure...count me in on that email --

[email protected]

thanks!

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Clint
90 Elec. Red SHO
My Pimpin Webpage

 

[1slickRED89]

i found the a prop rod from a mid 80's nissan is ideal for the sho! i grabed one off of a 87 sentra. i welded it to the strut top plate, cut the hood insulation and drilled a hole in the hood substructure. it's very unabtrusive, with the strut cover trimed to fit around it, the prop almost looks stock.

the prop rod off of a tempo bolts on but interfers with the hood latch and needs bending, but will work.

Corey
89SHO

 

[90MTXSHO]

Back in the day Ken Day (no pun intended) said you could get a prop hood for $20 and 5 years of waiting from the SHO Shop...

...any chance that one of the Sables or Taurii hood prop would work? I dunno if they even HAD hood prop rods.

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Clint
90 Elec. Red SHO
My Pimpin Webpage

 

[philw349]

Yeah prop rods, someone needs to come up with a mod for those. Because I hate taking a prop rod out of the trunk. I bought one from the sho shop and it turned out it was just a stick of aluminum. Golly george I couldn't have made one of those myself

.

 

[CTOESHO]

So this GM part is an exact bolt on for the front STB? I was planning to install the front one now, and worry about the rear one later. For $7.50, you can't go wrong. Does it include everything I need for the front STB installation? Thanks

Mike
93MTX

 

[ThrillSHO]

It is not and exact bolt-on. It comes with 2 holes on each end, neither line up exactly with the SHO strut bolt. Some people have just elongated one of the holes and bolted it on. I removed the stock strut tower plate (you have to drill the spot welds) and welded the bar to the plate. Then drilled a single hole in the center of the bar to line up with the strut bolt and bolted the plate and bar on as an assembly.
Caution: If you do it this way and have stock strut mounts, you cannot adjust camber. If you notice in the pic, I have eccentric strut mounts that allow camber adjustment without loosening the 3 plate bolts.

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ThrillSHO Racing
93 ATX SHO
UDPs, LPM, 80mm MAF, K&N w/CAI Snorkle, 8mm Taylor wires, Koni Struts, High Rate Linear Springs, Camber plates, Adjustable rear control arms, Touque box brace, Poly bushings, 24mm front SB, 26mm rear SB, Alum SFB, Full-length SFCs, Front STB, SS Y-pipe, Borla Cat-back, TransGo Shift Kit, Relocated battery, Five point harness, Five 2" gauges below the CD player, 225/45s on 16x7s
Very Low Very Fast

 

[1slickRED89]

i put the front one on by itself, then added the rear later. in my opinion the rear bar makes the big diffrence, not saying the front one does nothing, it does.

i like the welded end joints, ThrillSHO, looks strudy. the cost of the ecentric strut mounts would make cost for the mod too great, i belive. (more than the $100 "weekend mod" limit) unless you already have the eccentrics installed.


Corey
89SHO

 

[hanshua]

Hey.. I was e-mailing a SHOforum member about these STB's, and he said I should post the message alogn with pictures...

Well, I dont have any pictures, but the ideas and descriptions might help some of those who have large sub boxes or just dont like the loss of trunk space in the rear from the GM STB

"The difference is most certainly worth the $28 and the time spent to install it. The front ones arent as simple as I though they would be... I had to drill out the holes a little to get it to fit correctly, but it was much easier than the rear one...

I have a large sub box in my trunk, so I couldnt mount the rear one on the front side of the strut towers... Instead, I mounted it on the backside, about one inch from the top... I had to move some of the amplifier stuff from the stock system around to get it to fit (i mainly just bolted them on lower). It took some careful bending and alot of careful drilling.. I used a metal punch and positioned it where I wanted the holes to be and tapped it with a hammer so that drilling would be easier from the very bad (almost sideways) position that I had to drill it from, but I just took my time, and gradualy made my holes bigger with larger bits. I then sillyconed around the holes and bolted it on... A note if you havent done this yet, you need to put the holes more towards the inside if the strut towers, because i ended up tensioning the brace on the last few screw turns...

The steering is alot more crisp, and I can take fast curves with much more confidence now.. Definatly worth the time and small amount of money. Also, the sub fits back in perfectly, just like it did w/o the brace... I like the fit.."




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-Justin

95 ATX
K&N Silencer-Coneless, SFC's, two 12" kenwoods w/ 600watt amp and sony CD, CincySHO Cowl Hood, Removed secondary silencers, TPR bushings.

Comming Attractions: New 17" wheels (need rubber for them), SS y-pipe, new springs to fix my sagging rear, 24/26mm sway bars, Strut Tower Braces, Yamaha Badges

 

[RI-SHO]

hanshua why 17's???? <---off topic---*

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Click & See My Modified 1993 MTX SHO

 

[AutoXSHO]

Unsprung weight and rotational inertia for two reasons...

 

[WaterRooster]

Speaking o fhoods and prop rods......Is it possible to just move the struts to a different spot under the hood ? If I remmeber right, there is room in there to move over to the sides.

RI-SHO - I have 17" SVT rims with 225/55/17 Z rated and my stock slicers with 225/60/16 Blizzaks. I got the 17" with those tires, cause I can switch back and forth with only a .3 speedo error


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Shawn
93 Emerald Green MTX
CAI,PP Y-pipe, Dynomax Catback, 80mm MAF, LPM, Ebachs and Tokis