ok so for like two weeks my headlights were dim and my SHO was real slow to start. i looked and found a bad alternator belt. replaced that and what a difference. now i was at work and this morning when i go to start the car to go home that starter drags for a two or three seconds and then stops altogether. i turn the key and the dash lights up like normal all of the interior lights a bright but no starter. no click, no nothing. battery seems okay and i cleaned the terminals but still nothing. luckily i have a 5 speed and i gave it a quick push start (which someone told me not to do?) got me home, it drives and run like a champ but i just don't know. also i was looking at replacements and 'm wondering about ACDelco. has anyone tried them out? at half price of the reman motorcraft i think it's a route i would like to take. thanks all.
starter questions
- Thread starter cetroutt
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Starters die. Sounds like that's what happened to you. I don't think ACDelco is any worse than any other kind (except duralast, they suck the big one), but make sure you get one with 10 teeth instead of 12... IIRC it's not that big of a difference but the MTXs get 10 teeth due to the smaller rotating mass (pistons).
Push starting the MTX is fine. It won't hurt anything.
Push starting the MTX is fine. It won't hurt anything.
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
I've had great and better luck getting them rebuilt from a local honest shop... see if there isn't one around you. I rebuilt the starter in my 92 when I had 110K miles on it, and just had it rebuilt a few months ago @ 195K... for $25-50 a rebuild isnt' a bad deal at all!
Took about 10 minuites and I was out the door... actually push started it and drove there, and installed it in the parking lot.
Took about 10 minuites and I was out the door... actually push started it and drove there, and installed it in the parking lot.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
I think I can get a Ford Reman at a decent price, if you're interested . . . .
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
ooh yeah, I had a **** of a time with a stumbling/dying problem, and the bitch wouldn't start, either... turns out the lockwasher on the ground lug of the starter broke and the bolt backed off... no ground cable! 
St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
Check the batt cables at both ends, but it sounds to me like a starter issue. I've had pretty good luck with my Autozone one so far. Been a year with oil dripping all over it.
- James
- James
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
I've always heard that "regurgitated" units only have whats "broken" fixed. Not necessarly everything fixed. Just enough to make it work, and put back into a box. I bought an AZ starter for my truck 5 years ago.. and have gotten 5 replacements so far... maybe its just me, or the ones that I buy for my truck... but AZ starters just have a bad track record with me.
thanks all for the input. i just climbed out from under it and all the connections are tight and clean and with the exception of the oil on it the starter looks new. i talked to the girl i bought the car from and she says that they bought the starter new form o'riellys not to long before i bought the car so i'm going to call and see if it's got the liftime of 1 year and then have her take it amd swap it. then i'm going to pick up a JY starter and have it picked apart by the starter/alt shop over in Cape. then i'll have a spare. i think i'm gonna do the same with the alt.
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
maybe they bought the starter new and reused the cylanoid? Wouldn't think a new one would go out that fast.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
"cylanoid"?
:angelnot:
:angelnot:
okay. i'm wondering about this here. i took my starter to the local shop and he's telling me that i'm needing a 12 tooth not a 10 tooth. and i have a 10 tooth in it. i'm just wondering about this. did the PO put in the wrong starter and i really need a 12 tooth or is it good that i have a 10 tooth and i shouldn't worry about it. please some more help.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
10 tooth = manual. 12 tooth = automatic.
Honestly, it's really only important that you get a 12 tooth for an ATX. The MTX can use either without a problem. Using a 10 tooth in an ATX will burn the starter out fairly quickly. If you do have an MTX, you can use either, but the 10 tooth is what's specified.
Honestly, it's really only important that you get a 12 tooth for an ATX. The MTX can use either without a problem. Using a 10 tooth in an ATX will burn the starter out fairly quickly. If you do have an MTX, you can use either, but the 10 tooth is what's specified.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Well, one is for the SLO engine, and one is for the SHO engine. 
I have to ask... are you serious?
I have to ask... are you serious?
Racer X
SHO Pilot, Retired
Ready for a laugh?Well, one is for the SLO engine, and one is for the SHO engine.
I have to ask... are you serious?
The difference between the 3.8L SLO and ATX SHO is....
...nothing. They're the same unit.
The MTX SHO uses a 10 tooth starter gear, but can use a 12 tooth from an ATX or SLO with no problem.
Yes, I'm serious.
doclees
New Member
I never knew this about the starter teeth. Anyone know if the Advance auto Palladium starters had correct teeth number on the ATX starters? They just changed manufacturers to a Mex import and my new (5th) one is from this new company. Maybe this is why I have gone through so many is 3 years. You can bet I'll count the teeth next time.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Now I'm not an expert on mechanical engineering by any means, but I always figured it worked the other way. If the flywheel has, say, 100 teeth (I know it doesn't), and the MTX starter has ten teeth, that gives a gear ratio of 10... if you use the ATX starter, that gives a ratio of 8.33... which totally proves you right.
My bad. *sigh*
Similar threads
