Starter and or solenoid problem

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TheSHODown

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Well my SHO is not starting and it only makes a slight click from under the airbox. My battery is reading right around 12V when i try and start and the battery was just charged. So i am pretty sure that it is some part of the starter and or solenoid r the wiring to these parts.

Every now and then it will go on a good spree of starting up and work a few times and then out of no where it will just stop starting again. I know that removing and replacing a starter is easy but what i want to know is can it be easily removed with just a simple jackstand or do i need to put it up on a lift to get it out. Because i really dont want to go out and try to remove it and waste time to just find out i cant get to it.

Thanks for any help in advance.
 

Mr Anonymous

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It can be removed pretty easily with the car on jackstands. Then it's just a 15mm nut, a 13mm stud behind that, a 13mm bolt, and the 13mm nut holding the positive cables on the hot side of the solenoid. The S-terminal wire may be a simple spade lug connection or a 10mm nut on a binding post depending on the age of the starter.

EDIT: Oh, and in case you didn't already know, you should disconnect the positive battery cable before removing the starter. :doh:
 
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TheSHODown

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Alright , thanks for the responses guys , just one more question. Once its out is there a way to test it to see if it works?
 

Vnuk1

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You should be able to bring it to your local parts store and they can test it for you.
 

rdainwa

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More failures come from the solenoid than the starter itself and is by far easier and cheaper to replace than the starter.

If you haven't pulled the starter already, try a jumper across the solenoid. Located in front of the strut tower on the drivers side. Jump across the two larger bolts.

Another overlooked culprit are battery cables. Acid residue is obvious but over time corrosion forms between the clamp and the post and reduces conductivity. Pull the cables and clean both the inside of the clamp and the post.

If maintenance is not the issue, you might check cable ends at the battery to see if eons of slowly creeping acid residue has reduced that hefty cable to just one or two strands which won't deliver enough amperage to turn the starter - just that dreaded "click" - especially in cold weather. If the cable seems in tact, even that dull gray reside on you find on the battery clamps can form on the cable who started its life as shinny copper. This can also reduce the overall conductivity of the cable even if it's not corroded all the way through.

Godd luck... TTFN
 

TheSHODown

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OK so i finally got around to removing the atarter and today got it tested at an autozone and it works fine so i am checking all my wiring and cleaning it off. The question i have is there is a wire that i dont know where it came from. I have the positive and negative battery wires and i know where those go, and the other real thick wire. that clamps on with the positive wire. There is the black wire with the green line that has a flat slide on connecter that slides onto the flat piece on the solenoid. but there is another wire that is orange and has a round connecter that looks like it slides onto something, its a thin wire and i dont remeber taking it off of the starter but i am sure it goes somewhere. And the last wire is a braided brass wire unsleeved and i think that one connects to the negative side of the solenoid and grounds to the car. If any of this sounds wrong let me know. And any help on determining where the orange wire goes is greatly appreciated.
 

SolidState

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one area to check on any Taurii is the ignition switch in the steering column. There have been a few cases on the forum where this piece has corroded and melted.

My experience with it comes from a similar situation as yours. I pulled the starter and had it rebuilt and replaced the solenoid (Gen 1). After that, I started tracing the wiring back to the key.

AS it turns out, I had replaced my heater core a month prior, and failed to properly tighten the 8mm bolt that holds the connector to the ignition switch.

Accessing the switch is pretty straight forward. You must remove the lower knee panel on the dash, the lock cylinder and the upper and lower column covers and it is on the underside of the column.
 

Mr Anonymous

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Unfortunately a bench test isn't always reliable. Solenoid failures can be intermittent and also influenced by heat soak from the engine. Last time I checked, AutoZone doesn't put the starter in the oven at 200 degrees before testing them! :evilgrin:

If you're reliably hearing the "click" from under the hood but no starter engagement, I'd still be suspicious of the starter.
 

TheSHODown

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So i learned a lesson about the local wildlife around here that also solved my problem. Heres how it goes.

hungry squirrel + braided ground wire = A SHO that wont start + Severed wire + a waste of time looking for problems that dont exist.

I replaced this wire and it started up with no problem, hopefully this problem is over .:pray:

safening.jpg
 

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