Start-Up After front 60k

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marvsho17

Joshua S.
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I got everything back together tonight. The sho started right up. No leaks :D , at least so far. I am getting a fairly loud whine from the timing belt area which should be normal for a few miles while the belt gets used to the sprockets right?

Here's the problem.. I went to goose the throttle and the rpm's drop and the engine has a hesitation. Someone please don't tell me the timing is off. I made sure the 3 marks were right on, and gapped the cps correctly, hopefully. The car has been sitting on 'stands for around a week and a half.

:confused:
 

AutoSHO

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How did you tension the timing belt? if you're getting a whine, chances are it is too tight, or one of the accessory belts is too tight.
 

HopefulSHO

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When I did my first timing belt replacement (on an MTX); I did the tensioner wrong and it sounded like a sewing machine. Removed the belt, tensioned it right and bolted 'er up, and all was well again. Make sure you did the tensioner right.

I wouldn't imagine any whine from the timing area to be normal at all.

When you say it has a hesitation, do you mean the RPMs drop a bit low and then go back to normal after hitting the throttle in neutral a bit?
 

marvsho17

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When tensioning the timing belt the first time I messed up and the spring came off. I put the spring back on, moved the crank, loosened the nut, let it spring against the belt, then I put an allen wrench on there and gave it some more against the belt. I suppose it could be on there tighter than it should be. What do I have to take off to get to the trap door to loosen it?

When I would hit the gas the car would want to die,rpms will drop, and the go back to normal.
 

HopefulSHO

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I honestly can't remember. (Wish I could help ya!)
I think everyone who's doing a timing belt replacment (or anything under those covers) should consider buying Mark N's 60k video. It's $20 well spent.

I fuged mine, took a quick look at his video and saw what I did wrong (don't remember what it was now though).
 

sdpatt

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You have likely overtightened the timing belt. It is very important that services such as these be performed according to a service procedure. You need the steps and the torque values to do the job right the first time without breaking something else.

Please check the posts below for the methods to initially set the tension and to reset it after you have already reassembled the timing gear.

One critical factor in setting the proper timing belt tension is to ensure that the crankshaft is rotated only in the normal, clockwise direction when positioning the alignment marks after the belt has been installed.

Initial tensioning: http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=105110&postcount=3

Reset tension: http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=105112&postcount=5

Check alignment: http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?p=127803#post127803

Here is a reprint of the method to set the initial alignment. This can be done with the engine assembled by just removing the small door in the lower timing belt cover to expose the 14mm tensioner pivot bolt. Loosen the nut about a half turn, rotate the damper clockwise to the 2nd, yellow mark and tighten the nut to 25-37 lb-ft.

To set the tension of the belt, you leave the tension hub nut loose after the belt is installed. The lower timing belt cover is then reinstalled with the small "door" removed. You then rotate the crankshaft just short of two turns in the CW direction until the first, yellow mark on the crankshaft damper aligns with the "0" degree mark on the timing cover. Do not turn the crank in the CCW direction to position it. This CW rotation and 60 degrees BTDC positioning is to tension the belt to its highest level. It is at this point where the tensioner's nut is tightened to 25-37 lb-ft. No additional force is aded to tighten the belt.
 

marvsho17

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I have the video also, the front part leaves a lot to be desired. Tonight I'll probably be pulling everything off again. Can I start the car with out the serpentine belts on? I'm thinking of getting to the point where timing covers are all on and start the car to see if the whine is still there.

About the hestitation, I went out and started the car today but it's still there. If the timing were off wouldnt the car run real rough? I did see the front cat was smoking, but I think that was just the coolant that fell on it from the water pump change. I'm getting exhaust from both pipes.
 

qiksho

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Make sure you reset the idle properly.

I believe (don't quote me, its been over a year now since I have done this) there is a plug in the middle timing belt cover that you can take out. This will enable you to retention the belt without taking the whole thing apart again. :****:
 

marvsho17

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qiksho said:
Make sure you reset the idle properly.

I believe (don't quote me, its been over a year now since I have done this) there is a plug in the middle timing belt cover that you can take out. This will enable you to retention the belt without taking the whole thing apart again. :****:


Yeah tonight I'll reset the idle before I rip it all apart again. :madflame:
I know of the trap door, although room is tight down there so I figure I'll just take all the covers off and check the timing again. I'll probably take the belt off and put it back on also.
 

marvsho17

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Just got back in from removing the tiny door and resetting the tension on the timing belt. The loud supercharger like whine has been replaced with a low whirling noise. And the hesitation is still there. :madflame: I'll reset the idle, check codes, fill her up, and take her for a long spin tomorrow.
 

marvsho17

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I was getting a lean condition code before the front 60k, but no hesitation.
I thinking it's just the o2 sensor going bad because both of them did'nt throw the code. I'll check for leaks but I never removed the intake, only the crossover tube.
 

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