Stalling or almost..(mostly in stop and go traffic)

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ollie91

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I've had this car for a while now and all has been fine until recently...

In heavy traffic, it drops down to about 500 rpm (the oil light flashes) and i have to blip the throttle to get it to settle at 800 RPM. This only started recently. The car seems as if it's right about to stall..

It only seems to occur when it goes from around 2000 RPM and you let the throttle off to brake.

The car has around 80K and I'm pretty sure that the 60K was never done. There is a small amount of oil in the wells. Could this be in famous o2 sensors or the TPS?

I'm not in a serious rush but, it sure gives me the cold sweats in traffic.

Thanks!
 

ollie91

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Forgot to add.....

The car starts great, pulls fine, works through the grears with no problems, Just in stop and go traffic.

Thanks!
 

Markus

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ollie91:
Forgot to add.....

The car starts great, pulls fine, works through the grears with no problems, Just in stop and go traffic.

Thanks!
Does the Check Engine light come on? Bad O2 sensors will illuminate (under most conditions) the CE light. Extract the diagnostic codes from the PCM - we will be able to give more help once we know what is wrong.
 

ollie91

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Nope. It stays off. Also, another thing I forgot to mention. I had the clutch replaced and they disconnected the battery in order to do this. I can tell because the clock was off by several hours. Could this simply be fixed by re-setting the idle? The problem didn't exist before the clutch replacement.

I'll check the codes as well.

Thanks!
 

marcus_sho

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sdpatt:
Yes, simply reset the idle. Search on idle, reset and program.
I've heard this said before, is this done with a computer or simply by letting it sit at an idle for 5min. I have an 89 that had that problem, I cleared the mem. and let it idle for 5min poblem was fixed. could you elaborate on this.

thanks
 

bradman

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I had a stalling and hesitation problem before I replaced my timing belt and plugs. The plugs had 100K on them. eek! However, I doubt that worn plugs would cause the idle problem you have.

<small>[ June 20, 2002, 02:18 AM: Message edited by: bradman ]</small>
 

93nighthawk

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Unplug the negative battery lead, press the brake peddal for a couple minutes to drain the memory. Reconect, Start the car, after 30 seconds, put full power load on (i.e. lights, a/c, stereo) and turn the wheel lock to lock. That should fix it. If not, check out www.shotimes.com under repairs for cleaning the IAB (Idle Air Bypass). Let us know how it works!

Eric
 

ollie91

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Well, I reset the idle and so far so good. I really need to get it into heavy stop and go traffic to be confident the problems fixed though. I'll let you guys know.

Thanks for the advice!

PS: I'll also check the IAB when I get a moment.
 

sdpatt

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Here is a more detailed procedure for setting the idle program.

1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
1a) Optionally, disconnect the keep alive memory connector in the small wire also landed to the negative battery terminal. You can then wait the 15 minutes, reconnect the plug, and go to step 6).
2) Turn on the headlight switch.
3) Wait at least 10 minutes.
4) Turn off headlight switch.
5) Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
6) Start engine normally (never press on the gas pedal).
7) Allow idle speed to settle for at least 30 seconds.
8) Within 70 seconds of starting the engine, apply all accessory loads the engine will see at idle. Do these concurrently.
8a) Climate control to MAX A/C.
8b) Headlight switch ON.
8c) Turn steering wheel 1/4 turn side to side.
8d) Press brake pedal.
8e) ATX SHOs only: shifter to DRIVE.
9) Do not turn off engine for at least 5 minutes.
10) It is preferable that the car be driven immediately after setting the idle programming.
11) While driving, allow the coolant temperature to rise to the normal range.
12) Run the car through its entire performance range
 
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