Speaker wires through front door?

[redsho]

I want to run a component set up front for my GEN II Sho. Just wondering how difficult/easier it is to run the wires (2 pairs - woofer & tweet) through the door as I won't be utilizing the stock wires.

 

[RickieFrat]

Passenger side is a PITA. The drivers side is even worse. I would use the stock wires and connect them to the X-over and go from there.

 

[redsho]

RickieFrat:
Passenger side is a PITA. The drivers side is even worse. I would use the stock wires and connect them to the X-over and go from there.

I've already screwed the xo's in the glove box as I've found no suitable place on door to mount it.
How much time & effort am I looking at?

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

redsho, if you dont mind running the wires through the door you can mount the x-overs behind the tapeholder/ashtray combo thing, theres a surprising amount of room behind it, but also i dont know how big your xovers are. if youre willing to lose your map pockets i would recommend placing them in there or just above since it would be close to your speaker (my friend did this in his TT nissan 300zx, looks awesome). it seems anywhere on the inside of the door panel would possibly hinder glass movement or just not fit. good luck.

<small>[ May 01, 2003, 05:00 PM: Message edited by: BlackOnBlackATX ]</small>

 

[redsho]

BlackOnBlackATX:
redsho, if you dont mind running the wires through the door you can mount the x-overs behind the tapeholder/ashtray combo thing, theres a surprising amount of room behind it, but also i dont know how big your xovers are. if youre willing to lose your map pockets i would recommend placing them in there or just above since it would be close to your speaker (my friend did this in his TT nissan 300zx, looks awesome). it seems anywhere on the inside of the door panel would possibly hinder glass movement or just not fit. good luck.

I've already drilled many holes in glove box to mount & run wires. I'd like to mount in the "map pockets", but space is limited & pretty hard to mount it (unless I use velcro instead of screws). Any which way, I'd still have to run a pair of wires through the door. Again, what kinda time & effort is this going to take shrug

 

[30footSHO]

Redsho, where are you from in StP?

I'm an East Sider, up between No. St. Paul and Maplewood. I won't be home until June though.

Dave

 

[redsho]

30footSHO:
Redsho, where are you from in StP?

I'm an East Sider, up between No. St. Paul and Maplewood. I won't be home until June though.

Dave

Dave,
Ahh... you're close by.
I'm in White Bear Lake

 

[SHO92]

You're not gonna be able to run it into the drivers door with out taking that "black can" thing apart and probably hacking it up. It is actually a giant connector and its not hollow inside. I just ran wire outside of it and wrapped it in a quaility split loom and spiral wrap. The passengers side is much easier since that accordian tube come off of the door easily and can be squeezed shorter inorder to get the wires through. The grommets go back in very easily. I've mounted my x-overs inside of the center console on the floor in front of the shift lever, its not the best place, but it works. I'm thinking of moving them to the glove box too.

 

[redsho]

SHO92:
You're not gonna be able to run it into the drivers door with out taking that "black can" thing apart and probably hacking it up. It is actually a giant connector and its not hollow inside. I just ran wire outside of it and wrapped it in a quaility split loom and spiral wrap. The passengers side is much easier since that accordian tube come off of the door easily and can be squeezed shorter inorder to get the wires through. The grommets go back in very easily. I've mounted my x-overs inside of the center console on the floor in front of the shift lever, its not the best place, but it works. I'm thinking of moving them to the glove box too.

Thanks for the nice info SHO92. I've not done the door panel removal yet. Hope it will be a breeze as you mentioned. I will probably do the split loom deal on the driver side too, if it is difficult as you stated. Anyway, just curious, where did you mount your tweeter? I'm still hoping I can "FLUSH" mount my 1" tweeter on the sail panel (It may be wishful thinking though)

 

[slickn56]

Are you guys running the stock amps to your components or running them off of deck power? If so how do they sound and is there enough power to create a good bass note?

 

[quadmasta]

if you open your door you'll see a little wiretie/ziptie lookin thing that connects the plastic canister to the rubber boot. Cut this with a set of wire cutters, take the door panel off by popping out the two screw covers on the handle, unscrewing those screws, unscrewing the sail panel, taking the other screw out of the door panel, take the two screws out near the map pocket, then use a panel tool around the edge of the door to remove, I think 8 panel fasteners, then take the speaker out. Find either a wire puller or a hanger and use a flashlight to look where the "canister" would hook to the door, there's a tiny gap below the canister, slip the coat hanger through there and tape the speaker wire to the end of it. After you've fished the wire out the door, pull the rubber boot out of the car side and fish the wire through the boot, then go inside your car and remove the kick panel cover, unscrew the three screws holding the A-pillar cover and unscrew the first two screws on the door sill panel and pull the panel out, you should be able to see the coat hanger stickin into the kickpanel, and voila, speaker wire in the door

 

[redsho]

quadmasta:
if you open your door you'll see a little wiretie/ziptie lookin thing that connects the plastic canister to the rubber boot. Cut this with a set of wire cutters, take the door panel off by popping out the two screw covers on the handle, unscrewing those screws, unscrewing the sail panel, taking the other screw out of the door panel, take the two screws out near the map pocket, then use a panel tool around the edge of the door to remove, I think 8 panel fasteners, then take the speaker out. Find either a wire puller or a hanger and use a flashlight to look where the "canister" would hook to the door, there's a tiny gap below the canister, slip the coat hanger through there and tape the speaker wire to the end of it. After you've fished the wire out the door, pull the rubber boot out of the car side and fish the wire through the boot, then go inside your car and remove the kick panel cover, unscrew the three screws holding the A-pillar cover and unscrew the first two screws on the door sill panel and pull the panel out, you should be able to see the coat hanger stickin into the kickpanel, and voila, speaker wire in the door

Not bad for a 1st post
Anyway, thanks for the info... I'll have to give it a shot once I get around to it. I assuming it should be easier on the passenger side too, right.?

 

[quadmasta]

I wouldn't know. All I've done in my car is install a DEI window automation system and I only had to fish wires through to the driver's door. If you have any other questions about wiring, etc feel free to ask

 

[SHO92]

redsho... you're not going to be able to flush mount the tweeters very easily. There is metal directly behind the sail panel that you'll have to trim first. Also, I don't the sail panel has a flat area that is large enough to have the tweeter mount be flush. My tweeters are in the custom kick panels that I'm building. You can see pictures of it so far on my website. Also with the door wiring... if you do it like quadmasta said, you'll still have the possibilty of chaffing the wires on the door where the canister mounts. Thats why I used split loom type stuff and ran it further into the door, so that it can't rub on anything and short out.

<small>[ May 06, 2003, 02:25 PM: Message edited by: SHO92 ]</small>

 

[3.8Lwagon]

i placed my x overs on the door pannel under neath the arm rest. and used double sided tape. and they have been there for like 2 years now

 

[WinnipegSHO]

Hey, I was reading about runnin wires thru the door panels. I have a JL component set-up in my SHO, and ran the wire thru the door panels not too bad. The pass side was easy, I think (my friend did em both!!), and the driver's side was a bit different. We just ran it underneath the black box thing, and then thru the rubber. I have a friend who is a Ford tech, and he said is most likely trouble opening that can. For my X-overs, I mounted them behind the middle consol (my SHO is ATX). I put my tweeters in a panel where the tape holder & lighter unit was using an overpriced piece of plastic from some SHO site. If you want to do the same, I could email out a template of the panel. Is just 4 screws to hold in. I can also get some pics if you guys want, just drop me an email at [email protected]. Good luck!!!