Sometimes it takes a little gas to start..

[philw349]

Anyone else have this? You start the car, it tries to start but won't. Then you do it again still nothing. Then you give it a good shot of gas while starting it and it shoots right up. I haven't really tried to see what happens if I don't give it gas. I just know sometimes (I guess its cold out now) it won't start until I do. I had the 60k done 24k miles (2 years ago) at the SHO Shop. Fuel pump was replaced about 2 years ago. Plug wires and valve cover gaskets were done a year and a half ago. Anyone elses do this?

 

[bigsho]

Mine does it to. I have not done the 60K thought. Try turning it to ACC for a few seconds before you try to start it. Mine starts just takes a little cranking before it does.

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Robbie
95 MTX red
SS SNORKEL
26 sway bar on
24 sway bar on floor
SHO NUT motor mounts on floor
IPT 3 gauge pod in box on floor

 

[Random]

its a fuel injected car. you never have to hit the gas to get the car started. I would say it is just your imagination.

 

[Rob94]

Myself, as well as a few others that I am aware of, have this problem occasionally. More likely than not, you are releasing the key too soon, and rather than fire up, the engine is flooding out. Pressing the accelator while re-cranking lets more air in and clears the flooded condition. Annoying, but not a major problem.

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Rob
White 94MTX
K&N Filter otherwise stock

 

[philw349]

That's good. I was gonna say, that is *not* my imagination. It never fails. On that occasion when other people are in the car, and it doesn't start up right away, and I start to feel stupid, I'll hit the gas on the second or third attempt. I swear it's magic, it will seem like it isn't going to work for a second and then start right up.

 

[fredhurderjr]

Since the blower, I have 2 situations:

a) it starts right up or
b) it doesn't, & I have to floor it to start. In my case, it's because it's flooded on b).

FI cars are like this - you shouldn't HAVE to push the gas pedal, however once they don't start on their own, flooring it changes the computer's fuel tables, & it says "warp speed, Scotty". It's not your imagination. If you get the priming "whirr" when you turn the key on (not to start though), it's not the pump necessarily.

Try key on to prime, key off. Key on to prime #2, start (no gas pedal). If that's it, your fuel delivery is low. If not, & you still have to floor it to fire, it's flooded.

 

[TwiceSHOwn]

I think a dirty MAF can cause this too? Is that not right? Maybe its related but when my MAF got dirty my car would start idle hunt a second then sputter and die. I guess that is different than you were describing...

Mine, i turn the key for like a split second and my car starts right up i have even released the key before and the car still go ahead and start...wierd.

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********
93 Silver ATX 57K
LPM
80MM MAF
Y Pipe
Eibach + Tokikos
Front and Rear STBs
Cold air snorkel
TCE SHO stopper brakes
Recovering from its 60K...sigh

 

[WaterRooster]

Don't worry phil....I have the same exact problem. It starts whenever you are in the car, but just as you have other people around, or in the car....it takes 2 or 3 turns to get the thing going. I have always accounted it to the fuel pump, or even diry injectors

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Shawn
93 Emerald Green MTX
CAI,PP Y-pipe, Dynomax Catback, 80mm MAF, LPM, Ebachs and Tokis

 

[AutoXSHO]

What is becoming a more common problem on these cars is that the feed line check valve (which prevents fuel from flowing back into the tank when the car is shut off) fails. It's internal to the pump, so if the pump has been replaced it should be okay. This is not always the case, though.

One correction. Flooring the throttle in most FI cars shuts off either the injectors or the fuel pump when cranking. This allows flooded cars to be started.

Another thing to think of is the CID, or Cam sensor. They do not always throw a code, and this will cause excessive cranking times often.

My car did this until I replaced the pump. Since then, no problems.

John V


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95 MTX with mods.

 

[DavidBGano]

Had the same problem you speak of, expect it to get worse, where you have to have your foot on the gas for it to run.

The fix for this is really quite simple. You need to clean you Idle/Air Bypass Valve... which is usually referred to as an IAB... go to shotimes and get the directions. It helps to have a BOX of q-tips and a bottle of rubbing alcohol for the procedure.

It takes maybe 15 minutes to clean, including removal and install... and the difference is literally amazing.

I thought (while cleaning the IAB), there is no friggin way this will fix it... but when I re-installed the cleaned IAB, the car fired up and has never had a single running problem since.

My 2 cents worth.

DBG

Originally posted by AutoXSHO:
What is becoming a more common problem on these cars is that the feed line check valve (which prevents fuel from flowing back into the tank when the car is shut off) fails. It's internal to the pump, so if the pump has been replaced it should be okay. This is not always the case, though.

One correction. Flooring the throttle in most FI cars shuts off either the injectors or the fuel pump when cranking. This allows flooded cars to be started.

Another thing to think of is the CID, or Cam sensor. They do not always throw a code, and this will cause excessive cranking times often.

My car did this until I replaced the pump. Since then, no problems.

John V

 

[Lupo]

Originally posted by fredhurderjr:
Since the blower, I have 2 situations:

a) it starts right up or
b) it doesn't, & I have to floor it to start. In my case, it's because it's flooded

.

That's exactly what happens on my car. When I leave it for a while, it usually starts right up first try. If it doesn't start, I have to floor it, then it starts. Maybe beacuse I have that custom LPM?

 

[TopSHO92]

Yes, I've often had that problem, too... but it only does it once in a great while?

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'92 SHO Black
*Tokico struts, Eibach springs, 24mm frt. & 26mm rear sway bar, SHO Shop tubular control arms, SHO Shop H-brace, heavy duty swaybar connecting links, poly bushings all the way around, SHO Shop: subframe bushings, motor & trans mounts, & solid torque limiters