Someone please inspect these welds

[99sho-time]

Alright so I pulled the rear vc and everything looks very good all the chains were tight. I rotated the engine by hand and check tension. the slave chain tensioner is tight the valves and lobes look very good. The welds actually look pretty good.

I poured a little MOM oil in the spark plug holes and that clattering sound when I touch the gas is still there.

The sound only happens when I touch the gas or accelerate and it went away just now at around 10 or so mins actually i think it went away today at around 5 mins. weird.

I guess im gonna have to get the oil pan pulled.

I wonder could this be a wrist pin issue is it possible I spun a bearing??

 

[sperold]

It is not a wrist pin if the noise goes away, and the same thing for a spun bearing.

An engine will "rattle" during acceleration if the timing is too advanced and pre-ignition takes place, but computer controlled cars with knock sensors don't usually have this issue.

Take another look at the cams and see if the suspecious one has actually moved, as that is a timing issue (advanced or otherwise) if it has.

 

[99sho-time]

i did my best to see if the cams moved they really didn't look like they did. I have good eye sight and I climbed in there. I checked the those little splines that contact the cam shaft itself. That sound also didn't happen when I first got the car before I got the cams welded.

If a cam sprocket that had slipped and was welded that wouldn't the sound stay?

Im probably gonna pull the pan. The car is also make a new noise when i rev it sounds like whining noise but sounds more like a drive train issue.

 

[sperold]

I suspect the knock sensor would still look after the pre-ignition if it was caused by some out-of-phase cam issue.

Other than that, I am out of ideas.

 

[rubydist]

If you have a "rattle" noise under acceleration or at higher rpms that goes away after 5-10 minutes of engine operation, that is almost certainly piston rattle due to stuck rings. You have two choices: 1. rebuild the engine 2. use a good oil and hope it loosens up the rings.

As I said in post 9, I have had good luck with Motorcraft semi-synthetic oil loosening up rings and eliminating this type of noise on multiple engines. I recommend that you try that, since rebuilding a V8 SHO has lots of complications. It will likely take 5000 miles for it to get loosened up, so you will need to be patient.

 

[99sho-time]

Thank you guys for your time. And I will run motorcraft semi next oil change. I did put some MOM oil in the rear bank spark holes. only thing is im curious as to what the metal flakes were in the oil so I'm gonna take precaution and see what its like with oil pan off.

I wondered if it as a spark knock myself but does pre det or spark knock also clear up when warm?

 

[rubydist]

no, spark knock will not be present cold because the engine runs rich and is not warm. spark knock will only be present when the engine is warm/hot.

 

[99sho-time]

I just drained maybe an 1/8 of a qt and the oil that came out is metallic and I can see 1000's of very small particles and a few bigger ones. but nothing super crazy and this oil is brand new.

they are non magnetic.

is it possible to spin a bearing and not know or hear it?

 

[stephen newberg]

I really doubt that it is a spun bearing. Much more likely, as Rubydist pointed out above, it is a stuck ring. The very fine non-magnetic bits you are finding are getting ground from the cylinder wall by the ring. You might consider pulling the heads and taking a look at the cylinders to see which is scrapping. Or you can try his suggestion with the oil to see if you can get it to stop sticking, though if it is serious enough to be causing metallic bits in the oil that are obvious, I would stop running it until you get the heads pulled and the rings fixed.

pax, smn

 

[99sho-time]

Yeah I changed the oil in my v6 tauri today and the oil looked kinda the same as the video but this oil was alot older. Maybe Im becoming a little to hyper aware and never looked at my oil that close before.

If it is stuck piston rings maybe I could fill the spark wells with MOM and than vacuum it out after a day or 2. Ive never actually heard of a stuck piston ring before I have no idea what causes it..

My friend said don't drive it. I guess we are still gonna pull the pan to make sure.

 

[99sho-time]

well I had 2 of my friend that are mechanics look at it. and it's not rod bearings ofc like you guys said. they couldn't figure out what it was as they both listened to the motor everywhere and within the 10 or so mins they were looking for the sound between giving it small revs the sound starts to dissipate. I am pretty sure it's the rear bank.

he said it would be a waste of time and money to pull the pan. they said not to worry about it and i'll be fine. one guy said it sounds like its coming from the top almost like the valve train. I should of measured the valve lash but the shims really didn't even look worn at all.

I was thinking maybe previous owner overheated it? and it squeezed a piston ring? which realizes when its at operating temp.
Why i dont i just put penetrating oil in the spark plug holes?

I may of overreacted with the metallic oil thing before as I changed the oil in my v6 and looked the same way.

 

[stephen newberg]

Yes, that was the suggestion from Rubydist well up thread.

pax, smn

 

[99sho-time]

Yah and again I'm sorry for drawing this out and I appreciate the time you guys put into this. Due to my own inexperience as a mechanic and curiosity. I'm just wondering what to do at this point whether or not to sell it and what happens if doesn't fix itself.

 

[99sho-time]

Slight update. Okay so I threw a tranny code TQ solenoid. and the guy said along with the tranny code there was P0325 also a p1260 So I changed the knock sensor and when I started it up I revved it didn't make that sound so I thought it was fixed. However I guess there might be something wrong with the wiring in this car.

I feel like and I know we have went over this I think the car might be pinging due to the computer unable to retard timing.

I'll explain my reasoning when I bought the car for w/e reason somebody hacked up the engine wiring harness there is terminals in front of the ECU etc. it was covered up... I need some sort of full diagnostic to see if all the components are operating correctly.

would it be possible to re wire a knock sensor? Or I actually have a spare engine wiring harness from a 97 would it be compatible and or hard to install?

 

[Mikey]

The welds look ok to me. Wonder if that A hole from queens let some welding slag fall down into the bottom end. Get a cheap stethoscope from harbor freight or Amazon, ebay, etc etc and try and isolate top end valve train or bottom end bearing knock. And yes I agree one weld has been missed as E1 referred to.