Some MTX questions

[boat]

Can someone answer my questions in post #17, please?

 

[kevinspann]

You have to drill and tap the case - the 1/8 npt pipe plug can be found at Lowes or Home Depot. Finding a single 1/8" NPT tap is harder, so far I've only found it in sets.

I used the Timkin input shaft seal. I didn't change the shift shaft seal, since it didn't leak, and can be done with the trans in the car. I also wasn't sure how to get it out, lol.

 

[jedhead]

I installed a drain plug in my transmission during my last rebuild. I used a brass plug I picked up from Home Depot.



This way I leave the part that goes into the transmission alone. When you drill the hole, go slowly because the aluminum is soft and galls easily.

Bob

 

[St Louis SHO]

Can someone answer my questions in post #17, please?

Pushy much?

 

[rubydist]

Can someone answer my questions in post #17, please?

the 2-spring setup will do a better job of keeping the shift lever located in the 3/4 gate unless you pull it to the left (against the 1/2 spring) or to the right (against the 5/R spring)

if the 5/R spring is missing, the shifter will stay wherever to the right.

if the springs are weak, the shifter will not be centered very firmly.

 

[boat]

Just a little.

Pushy much?

 

[boat]

Ordering the last of my parts for this. I need a little clarity.

I seem to remember a while back, it was either the front main, or the rear main, it was best to stay away from a certain brand. Seems like my memory serves me in saying it was Fel-pro for the front main, and the Fel-pro rear main was good. I tried searching "rear main", but I am not coming up with much.

Can someone clarify this for me?

The low mileage one is from Ford.

I didn't see you list a rear main seal set in your "to do" list...

It was done 17k miles ago. Back when the clutch should have got replaced. I got talked into keeping what I have in there now.

Oh, OK...cool...

but for $23...I'd have one handy even with the low miles on the current one.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Rear main from Fel Pro is fine. For front main you want Ford.

 

[St Louis SHO]

I've never had a fel pro rear main not leak

 

[boat]

What have you used that has worked?

I've never had a fel pro rear main not leak

 

[St Louis SHO]

Ford. Thats the only one I've had luck with. We're gonna try a Timken seal on Dillons car, it feels alot better than the fel pro.

 

[pitaSHO]

Also while your subframe is down you might want to look at the front tension strut rod pockets on the subframe. They tent to come loose and are the culprit for some front end clunking and squeaking...

My .02.

Chris K.

 

[boat]

Thanks.

I had the strut rod cups welded and new bushings put in the last time it was down about a year and half ago.

We will be going over the front suspension, subframe, just to make sure all is good and tight. The struts springs were replaced about 27k miles ago. Front end links, and LCA's were done probably about 6-9 months after that.

I have ALSFB's in there as well.

I do currently have a front end clunk (happens in the transistion from my driveway to gravel (last time it was this, it was loose endlinks at the strut), not totally certain what it is yet. I do have front end squeaking going over bumps, I have already diagnosed as swaybar bushings, that I have in hand and will be going in.

Also while your subframe is down you might want to look at the front tension strut rod pockets on the subframe. They tent to come loose and are the culprit for some front end clunking and squeaking...

My .02.

Chris K.