Some MTX questions

[boat]

I am looking at putting in a quaife in the next month or 2. I was thinking while I am in there:

Replace the clutch with a new Valeo unit (already own it)
Replace stock flywheel with 17lb flywheel from SHOSource(going to purchase)
Retain my ceramic TOB (only has 12k miles on it)

I am currently having some issues at times getting it into 1st and reverse. From what I read, that is from the inner race of the TOB wearing into the pressure plate fingers. The ceramic tob has been in there for 12k. Should of replaced the clutch then, but I was talked into keeping the old clutch/pp that was in there.

Anyway, would that combo "play nice" together? It is a 3.2 MTX with some mild mods, no plans in the near future (or long) of doing FI. Planning on staying NA for a while.

discuss....

 

[urban88]

hard getting in to first and reerse could be your shifter rod bushings

 

[sperold]

Your new ceramic TOB won't have any issues, unless you hear a lot of grumbling with the clutch depressed, it is still OK.
When you pull the old clutch unit that is in there now, you will probably find the disc is thin. Maybe you will even find the many fingers on the pressure plate are "shined up" and therefore thinner. That is most likely your first and reverse issue. If the clutch bite point is down in the carpet on the clutch pedal, then you have the worn disc or failing pressure plate fingers.
I don't have any experience swapping flywheels, but unless you know it is an improvement for your situation, I would refinish the flywheel you have. My thought is the engine already revs quick when challenged to do so, and the launch needs all the help it can get, and the stock wheel is about the best for that.

 

[Shoaz]

That setup sounds fine to me. If you want a really smooth clutch action and don't mind spending the money, get SHOnut's teflon-coated aluminum release fork bushings. The fork bushings and the Ceramic TOB together make a very nice package, IMHO, in my experience.

 

[AREA 91]

That setup sounds fine to me. If you want a really smooth clutch action and don't mind spending the money, get SHOnut's teflon-coated aluminum release fork bushings. The fork bushings and the Ceramic TOB together make a very nice package, IMHO, in my experience.

Quoted for truth!!! I won't put a SHO clutch in without them!

 

[93rev2sev]

The TOB should be fine. If nothing else, make sure there's not a bunch of slop in the fork bushing. If there is...then even a stock replacement would do wonders. If you need a new one...might as well get the teflon one from josh, though.

 

[boat]

The teflon bushings are already in the MTX that is in there now. The first time I put the pedal down after installing those bushings, I could tell a huge difference, it made the pedal travel feel smooth and light. I agree, the ceramic tob with those bushings make a nice combo.

I have those teflon release shaft bushings in my cart at SHO Source for the trans that I will be putting in.

The clutch bite point is no where near the carpet. I would imagine the clutch disc still has some life left in it. But, I figure while I will be swapping out the trans with a quaifed one, I will replace the clutch and flywheel. From seeing the pressure plate 16k miles ago, there was uneven wear on the pressure plate fingers. I am glad it has lasted this long, especially at not really knowing how many miles were on the clutch when I got this SHO.

 

[gmorrell]

That setup sounds fine to me. If you want a really smooth clutch action and don't mind spending the money, get SHOnut's teflon-coated aluminum release fork bushings. The fork bushings and the Ceramic TOB together make a very nice package, IMHO, in my experience.

Quoted for truth!!! I won't put a SHO clutch in without them!

Hey, keep it up, last time I made over 100 sets of those for Josh - I'll make more. These are not Teflon, they are Aluminum with a Teflon impregnate hard coat, I don't believe that SHO Source sells my bushings, SHONut does.

I think you'll be fine with the 17 pound steel flywheel, it's only a few pounds lighter than the stock Iron wheel, but its got all the right stiffness and material characteristics for a good flywheel and pretty much any clutch friction material is going to be happy with it.

 

[itwonder]

FWIW, whenever I get hard 1st engagement, a clutch pedal adjustment is in order. Pull up ******* the pedal. Reverse is most always a pita, unless you use the trick of going into 2nd and then Reverse.

 

[boat]

I now have the quaife. I also got a 60k MTX in the deal as well. These 2 are going to be married together.

My thinking is that while I am installing the quaife, I would replace the axle seals, change the fluid in the trans(duh, all the old is coming out anyway), replace the TOB release shaft bushings with the ones from SHO NUT, re-use my 12k mile ceramic TOB, and call it a day.

Then when I put this MTX in my SHO, replace the clutch and flywheel, and with the subframe dropped, replace my swaybar bushings as the swaybar is "creaking".

Is there anything else I should consider doing to that trans prior to installing in my SHO?

 

[kevinspann]

Maybe a drain plug, if you want.

Edit: Input shaft seal for sure, shift shaft seal if you want. Might as well.

 

[Eric VerValin]

How are you marrying these together? I believe you need to measure the preload on the bearings and all that fun stuff if you are putting the quaife into another trans. Would probally be easier to use the quaifed trans, and swap over the gear stack from the 60k trans.


PS... awesome time for inner tie rods or a rack..

 

[jedhead]

I would get SHONut's Quaife install video. Also borrow the shim selector tool to properly shim the diff.

Bob

 

[shoon]

I rebuilt mine a while back. Here is the thread with pictures.
As far as difficulty engaging first, check your synchro sleeve for burr's and file them down. They can create quite a bit of shift resistance.

Also, my original MTX had 2 springs in the shifter, and my donor trans did not. Supposedly it was luck of the draw whether the trans was equipped with both springs or not.. but personally I really liked the feel of the shifts with 2 springs instead of 1. If you only have 1, maybe seek out an additional spring

 

[kevinspann]

I rebuilt mine a while back. Here is the thread with pictures.
As far as difficulty engaging first, check your synchro sleeve for burr's and file them down. They can create quite a bit of shift resistance.

Also, my original MTX had 2 springs in the shifter, and my donor trans did not. Supposedly it was luck of the draw whether the trans was equipped with both springs or not.. but personally I really liked the feel of the shifts with 2 springs instead of 1. If you only have 1, maybe seek out an additional spring

2 springs where?

 

[shoon]

2 springs where?

the 3-4 bias spring and the 5th / reverse kickdown spring are the one's I'm referring too. The 1 or 2 springs are on either side of the shift lever shaft IIRC.

Edit: the 3-4 bias spring is the one that is sometimes missing.

 

[boat]

Thank you for the tips guys, keep them coming if you think of anything else.
So, a little shopping list has developed:

Drain plug - ???
Input shaft seal - RockAuto
Shift shaft seal - RockAuto
Shim selector tool rental - SHO NUT
Axle seals - SHO NUT
Teflon coated TOB release shaft bushings - SHO NUT
Install video - borrowing from a SHOForum member

Maybe a drain plug, if you want.

Edit: Input shaft seal for sure, shift shaft seal if you want. Might as well.

Where do I find a suitable drain plug, what kind, and how do I put it in? I have seen the mod on SHO Times, I have it printed out and know where it goes on the trans, I just don't want to screw up the case.

On the input shaft seal, Timken, or National?
On the shift shaft seal, Timken or SKF?

How are you marrying these together? I believe you need to measure the preload on the bearings and all that fun stuff if you are putting the quaife into another trans. Would probally be easier to use the quaifed trans, and swap over the gear stack from the 60k trans.


PS... awesome time for inner tie rods or a rack..

The 60k trans doesn't have the quaife in it, the quaife is still in the box. These 2 are being put together.

My rack is fine for now. I agree it would be a good time for it, but I have about enough money to buy the 17lb flywheel and the parts needed to do this trans swap/quaife install.

I rebuilt mine a while back. Here is the thread with pictures.
As far as difficulty engaging first, check your synchro sleeve for burr's and file them down. They can create quite a bit of shift resistance.

Also, my original MTX had 2 springs in the shifter, and my donor trans did not. Supposedly it was luck of the draw whether the trans was equipped with both springs or not.. but personally I really liked the feel of the shifts with 2 springs instead of 1. If you only have 1, maybe seek out an additional spring

What does the difference feel like if there are 2 springs in there vs. just 1?Thank you, for the link to your rebuild. I haven't seen the quaife install video yet, it almost looks intimidating. I am sure once I watch it I should be fine.

 

[93rev2sev]

I didn't see you list a rear main seal set in your "to do" list...

 

[boat]

It was done 17k miles ago. Back when the clutch should have got replaced. I got talked into keeping what I have in there now.

I didn't see you list a rear main seal set in your "to do" list...

 

[93rev2sev]

It was done 17k miles ago. Back when the clutch should have got replaced. I got talked into keeping what I have in there now.

Oh, OK...cool...

but for $23...I'd have one handy even with the low miles on the current one.