38SHO
#1 Oil Abuser
welp in an attempt to make the SHO look less hideous for its weekend roadtrip and look pretty for Brian, I fixed something I've been putting off for awhile today. I hate body work, just wanted to add that.
When I first got this car the driver side door molding that says SHO on it ripped. I got a spare piece for it, from what I hear this is a piece off of one of kelvin's old SHO's..... Welp before I just threw on the new one and let it get messed up too, I wanted to fix the root of this problem. Strike 1....
When I looked at the door molding originally on the car, I noticed all the "acorn" shaped nuts on the backside were rusted to **** and back something royally.... strike 2.......
so I've been putting this off, not wanting to start it and open a can of worms. Today I did something about it.
I noticed there was a different striker on my car, that didn't let the door shut fully, I have since replaced that for a decent looking one off a gen 2 SLO from a junkyard for free...... the next problem arose, the door shuts too much with that striker and also needs to be shut with authority or doesn't latch correctly. Also the back door won't open unless my door is open slightly because it shuts too tight. I haven't figured out this dilemma yet.......
Water was comming in, the door ajar light was on, and the wind noise was bothersome sometimes, so putting on this new latch, even with its fair share of problems is the lesser of two evils....
Well the ripped door panel didn't like that decision. It took offense and started to get pryed off every time I open the door, it has since scratched the trim piece on the fender..... POS.....
Now I'm up to removing the door piece and its rusty nuts....... ah yes what fun this was.... I didn't know quite what to do so I used a lot of tools before I found a badass technique.....
2 chisels/Hammer
Punch/Hammer
Drill
Grinder
I just wasn't getting anywhere with that, then I thought about the air hammer, ah yes the glorious air hammer always gets you out of a pinch. After probably 10 minutes of work with the other tools, the airhammer removed the screw in 2 seconds.... **** this tool seems like a keeper, albeit taking off some paint in a hidden spot. I took off the other 4 or so screws in about 15 seconds... now were cookin!
So I go to reinstall the new molding, still hits the fender when I open the door... so what the hells wrong? I thought maybe the door needs to be hanged better, I was just hating life at that thought almost, **** I'm not a body man, I'd rather take out 5 transmissions then align a door.
put some thought into it and decided the fender was too far in, when the door goes to open, it tucks inside the fender, even without the molding the door hits the fender normally when you open it. So I unscrewed the wheel well and fender apart, and bent the shit out of the fender with brute force, problem fixed on the door molding situation. I also broke the molding on the fender taking that off... it was broke and someone epoxied it before on the clips that hold it to the fender..... so more expoxy whent back on, I'm the epoxy KING! letting that dry overnight and putting it on tomorrow, the SHO looks halfway decent on the drivers side again.... no major blemishes that can be seen from 20 feet lol..... if you look you can defintely tell the drivers door is in too far though.......
Man I've fixed body pieces, wires, tires, front hubs, brakes, altenator, ps pump, exhaust, tranny cooler lines, fixing A/C clutch Friday..... I finally feel this car is actually ready to do some driving around the state and I'm not too worried of anything being unsafe or unreliable. Thats a good feeling
When I first got this car the driver side door molding that says SHO on it ripped. I got a spare piece for it, from what I hear this is a piece off of one of kelvin's old SHO's..... Welp before I just threw on the new one and let it get messed up too, I wanted to fix the root of this problem. Strike 1....
When I looked at the door molding originally on the car, I noticed all the "acorn" shaped nuts on the backside were rusted to **** and back something royally.... strike 2.......
so I've been putting this off, not wanting to start it and open a can of worms. Today I did something about it.
I noticed there was a different striker on my car, that didn't let the door shut fully, I have since replaced that for a decent looking one off a gen 2 SLO from a junkyard for free...... the next problem arose, the door shuts too much with that striker and also needs to be shut with authority or doesn't latch correctly. Also the back door won't open unless my door is open slightly because it shuts too tight. I haven't figured out this dilemma yet.......
Water was comming in, the door ajar light was on, and the wind noise was bothersome sometimes, so putting on this new latch, even with its fair share of problems is the lesser of two evils....
Well the ripped door panel didn't like that decision. It took offense and started to get pryed off every time I open the door, it has since scratched the trim piece on the fender..... POS.....
Now I'm up to removing the door piece and its rusty nuts....... ah yes what fun this was.... I didn't know quite what to do so I used a lot of tools before I found a badass technique.....
2 chisels/Hammer
Punch/Hammer
Drill
Grinder
I just wasn't getting anywhere with that, then I thought about the air hammer, ah yes the glorious air hammer always gets you out of a pinch. After probably 10 minutes of work with the other tools, the airhammer removed the screw in 2 seconds.... **** this tool seems like a keeper, albeit taking off some paint in a hidden spot. I took off the other 4 or so screws in about 15 seconds... now were cookin!
So I go to reinstall the new molding, still hits the fender when I open the door... so what the hells wrong? I thought maybe the door needs to be hanged better, I was just hating life at that thought almost, **** I'm not a body man, I'd rather take out 5 transmissions then align a door.
put some thought into it and decided the fender was too far in, when the door goes to open, it tucks inside the fender, even without the molding the door hits the fender normally when you open it. So I unscrewed the wheel well and fender apart, and bent the shit out of the fender with brute force, problem fixed on the door molding situation. I also broke the molding on the fender taking that off... it was broke and someone epoxied it before on the clips that hold it to the fender..... so more expoxy whent back on, I'm the epoxy KING! letting that dry overnight and putting it on tomorrow, the SHO looks halfway decent on the drivers side again.... no major blemishes that can be seen from 20 feet lol..... if you look you can defintely tell the drivers door is in too far though.......
Man I've fixed body pieces, wires, tires, front hubs, brakes, altenator, ps pump, exhaust, tranny cooler lines, fixing A/C clutch Friday..... I finally feel this car is actually ready to do some driving around the state and I'm not too worried of anything being unsafe or unreliable. Thats a good feeling
