So I broke the harmonic balancer puller...

[shoray]

Hello Everyone,

I am currently in the middle of a pretty massive project with my SHO, like everyone else here. I have manged to first shear off two bolts and then seize the large bolt inside the puller. I am not opposed to buying another one but I really wanted some additional input from you guys. Ive heard of using a torch and even a ratchet strap but I'm sure someone with sagely wisdom will chime in because not driving this car is unacceptable, even if the front end is wrecked.

 

[luigisho]

Do you have access to air tools somewhere close by? that would really make your life easier in removing old fasteners.

I usually try the starter bump method and when that hardly ever works for me I get a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar with a strong impact socket, extensions long enough to clear the fender, and a 4-5 foot cheater pipe something like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/LDR-Indu...teel-Schedule-40-Cut-Pipe-307-34X60/100541919 from lowes/home depot etc

Slide the ratchet or breaker bar handle inside the pipe and MF the thing off in fits of semi controlled rage

 

[shoray]

I've got the bolt out. Its the pulley itself that is giving me fits.

 

[thegreatbriguy]

I've always had to use a puller its really on there. Harbor freight has the one I use if that's nearby but i think i had to use some other bolts with the right thread and right length that weren't in the kit.

 

[luigisho]

You can try heat just be careful about the rubber material between the 2 pieces of the pulley. If you use heat I think the MAPP gas torch is hotter than the more widely used propane. I think I would get another puller and if you need a piece not included then do that. I have used torches on suspension parts but I don't like it around fuel, electronics, rubber hoses and stuff. Especially without a lift going in through the wheel well. That is frustrating. Good luck

 

[tompumped]

One thing that I overlooked in the past was not lubricating the threads of the center bolt that you tighten it makes a big difference. Also an impact works wonders sometimes, but i'm not so sure it's real good for bearings. I couldn't get a crank pulley off a car I parted out recently until I lubricated that center bolt.

I stripped a cheap wheel bearing puller/installer drive bolt one time because I didn't use ****, on the new one I did and I didn't have an issue.

I'm not sure if buying a more expensive puller would do any better but some stuff is real junk nowadays.

****, ****, ****, it'll be like the first time you found out just how helpful it can be all over again

 

[shoray]

I've gotta do something. As soon as the puller seized I realized that about lubricating it. I also did it improperly the first time but have hope that I can tap and die it as another forum member did. If I can get it off. Way too many parts purchased to put on to give up now.

 

[pjtoledo]

get a good puller. attach it and start cranking until its good and tight, but not enough to break things. make sure there is something real sturdy against the crank, you don't want anything to bend/distort now.
anyway, with the bolt tight grab a medium size ball pein hammer and whack that center bolt 2 or 3 times. make it a straight hit putting the energy straight into the bolt.
then tighten the bolt a very sight amount, whack it again & repeat. it may take 50- 100 or more cycles as the dampner may only move .001" each time.
I have had good luck taking rusted stuff off this way.

don't use a puller with a skinny pin & end cap. you will need something strong there to prevent distortion while getting whacked.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Because the SHO is a slip fit and not a taper fit between the balancer and the crank, the adhesive bond between the two (whether rust or misguided placement of some form of locktite) is much more difficult to defeat. With a slip fit you have to pull against a shear and not a lift like in a taper fit. Much more difficult..

It's not a good idea to hit the joined two with a medium to large hammer at this point because they are one and this will just drive the thrust washers against the middle main bearing saddle.

Since the balancer is toast and you will be replacing the main seal anyway, I would use heat to break the bond. Propane and MAPP gas flames are too cool for what you need to do. Their flame fronts would have to be 8" long and that would put heat all over parts and places you don't want heat. If they are all you have, aluminum foil is your best friend. An OXY/Acet torch would be best with a small "00" tip. Adjust it for a neutral flame and put the tip of the bright blue inner flame to the area of the balancer adjacent to the mating surfaces. Try and keep the bright blue tip AKA the hot point, away from the end of the crank. The rubber joint in the balancer will begin to smoke so keep a bottle windex or water handy.

Tom