Well about a week ago I was cruising at about 70mph on my 40 mile drive to work when I smelt something.... so I look in the rearview mirror to see a ton of smoke pouring out the back of my car. I didn't know what the **** it was so I pulled over, only to find that the drivers side rear caliper was making so much smoke. I checked all of the others, they were all cold, the rim was blazing hot on the driver side rear caliper that was smoking. So I let it cool off and drive real slow, no problems. Go to fix it on the weekend, replace all of the parts, caliper, pads rotor. Go to bleed and neither of the back brakes have any pressure to them whatsoever. They don't even work. So I don't have time to fix it, go to work again, this time the passenger side starts to smoke. I do the same thing as before, let it cool off and drive slow. Now I have no back brakes and don't even have a clue to what the problem is, sorry for the long read, but any suggestions?
Smoking brakes, but no pressure?
- Thread starter Corby
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Rockledge
Pluggin' away
Hoses.
dantheman68
Kinda Big deal
x2
i had the same symptoms...
http://home.earthlink.net/~rcm_automotive/
they sell Stainless steel lines, which are not prone to collapsing and also provide a bit of braking performance... and theyre very comparable in price to a whole new set of rubber lines...
its the route i went atleast
i had the same symptoms...
http://home.earthlink.net/~rcm_automotive/
they sell Stainless steel lines, which are not prone to collapsing and also provide a bit of braking performance... and theyre very comparable in price to a whole new set of rubber lines...
its the route i went atleast
Last edited:
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
x3,1415926535897926.
Rear brake hoses are FAMOUS for rusting shut at the point where they bolt to the body. The bracket they go into bleeds rust into the hose, swelling it shut. They don't let fluid through except at high pressure, then it traps it in there, at high pressure... this is a bad thing.
You need to replace the rear hoses. You can put the new hoses back into that bracket if you want, but if you do I would recommend putting some sort of barrier, i.e. teflon tape, between the bracket and the hose to at least slow this down.
Or, you can get stainless steel lines.
They do help a lot, especially in pedal feel. I feel it's well worth the $93 shipped at www.performancepeddler.com, or $100something at SHObros. You'll actually get the right banjo bolts and washers at SHObros, though lol.
Rear brake hoses are FAMOUS for rusting shut at the point where they bolt to the body. The bracket they go into bleeds rust into the hose, swelling it shut. They don't let fluid through except at high pressure, then it traps it in there, at high pressure... this is a bad thing.
You need to replace the rear hoses. You can put the new hoses back into that bracket if you want, but if you do I would recommend putting some sort of barrier, i.e. teflon tape, between the bracket and the hose to at least slow this down.
Or, you can get stainless steel lines.
They do help a lot, especially in pedal feel. I feel it's well worth the $93 shipped at www.performancepeddler.com, or $100something at SHObros. You'll actually get the right banjo bolts and washers at SHObros, though lol.Storm-Chaser
New Member
hawkeye18 said:....
Or, you can get stainless steel lines.
Did you ever call Goodridge as I suggested?
Which kit number did you get?
Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake line kit for $93.96 shipped !!!
LeddZepp8687
The Keg Rider
I second or third the hoses.
If you are also having bleeding issues that biasing valve is a notorious failer.
If you are also having bleeding issues that biasing valve is a notorious failer.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Wheel cylinders are for drum brakes. They are the equivalent of the caliper, in that they translate the peddle pressure transmitted via the brake lines, into pressure against the brake shoes (the drum brake equivalent of brake pads). You can read-up on the Taurus rear brakes via the AutoZone online Vehicle Repair Guide.
When the brakes get extremely hot, it's possible for the caliper piston seals to melt. Given that you've changed the rear calipers that's not the case. Another possibility is that one or both hoses were dry-rotted, and heat resulted in cracks that are [now] leaking given the calipers are working correctly (but this tends to be is less common than melted seals).
Here are some trouble-shooting questions:
Nothing personal, but if "the guy" that looked at the brakes actually did inspect them and state that the wheel cylinders were leaking, I would get someone else to look at them. If you're paraphrasing and don't recall exactly what s/he said, ask again.
While diagnosing a brake problem is not the easiest thing to do in some cases, finding a leak is relatively easy. Elevate the car and pull the rear wheels. Get someone to pump the brakes (engine running) while you watch for the leak. When you pull the left-rear wheel, look at the condition of the proportioner valve. Use protective glasses so you don't get brake fluid or dirt/grease/rust in your eyes.
Let us know what you find....
When the brakes get extremely hot, it's possible for the caliper piston seals to melt. Given that you've changed the rear calipers that's not the case. Another possibility is that one or both hoses were dry-rotted, and heat resulted in cracks that are [now] leaking given the calipers are working correctly (but this tends to be is less common than melted seals).
Here are some trouble-shooting questions:
- Did you change only the calipers, or the entire caliper assembly to include the caliper brackets?
- During the caliper change, did you allow the rear calipers to hang by the hoses?
- Did you re-use the copper crush-washers?
- Were the brake lines rusted?
Nothing personal, but if "the guy" that looked at the brakes actually did inspect them and state that the wheel cylinders were leaking, I would get someone else to look at them. If you're paraphrasing and don't recall exactly what s/he said, ask again.
While diagnosing a brake problem is not the easiest thing to do in some cases, finding a leak is relatively easy. Elevate the car and pull the rear wheels. Get someone to pump the brakes (engine running) while you watch for the leak. When you pull the left-rear wheel, look at the condition of the proportioner valve. Use protective glasses so you don't get brake fluid or dirt/grease/rust in your eyes.
Let us know what you find....
^^^^^ Thanks for the info..... by the way, only the one of the calipers was replaced, the drivers side rear one, and it was just some dude who wanted to buy the car that told me that. Hopefully I will have it fixed so I can drive it again or sell it which I don't really want to do.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
N-E-V-E-R listen to someone that's trying to buy your car (did I put enough emphasis on that?).
It's not as if telling you it's going to cost you an arm and a leg to fix, would influence your asking price, now is it?
Do the inspection tomorrow and answer the questions above/below and this shouldn't be too hard to figure out....
It's not as if telling you it's going to cost you an arm and a leg to fix, would influence your asking price, now is it?
Do the inspection tomorrow and answer the questions above/below and this shouldn't be too hard to figure out....
- Both brakes are leaking, right?
- Also, how did you get the piston to retract?
- Did you replace the pads and rotors on both sides, or only the driver's side?
Only replaced the pads on drivers side, not rotor, and caliper also on driver side, I just let that shit burn until it wasn't hitting anymore, I didn't have enough money/time to do both sides, which is good since neither of the back brakes work anyways....... I could only see a puddle under the passenger side wheel, not the driver. Maybe both calipers got fricked up from all the heat and smoke, but only one was replaced, so only one is leaking? And maybe the hose needs to be replaced on drivers side?
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Okay, you replaced the driver's rear caliper and pads, but not the rotor. Did you replace the caliper bracket as well?
If that's what you did and it's only leaking from the passenger rear, it could very well be the caliper piston seal. If you didn't replace the caliper brackets or rebuild them, one or both could be frozen and causing the problem as well. Let us know when you get under there and find out where it's leaking.... :wave:
If that's what you did and it's only leaking from the passenger rear, it could very well be the caliper piston seal. If you didn't replace the caliper brackets or rebuild them, one or both could be frozen and causing the problem as well. Let us know when you get under there and find out where it's leaking.... :wave:
Alright, just the caliper was replaced, no brackets, I will hopefully have it fixed within 2 weeks, what should I buy tho.... brake lines? If I replace the caliper on the other side, I am assuming it won't bleed to either of them, I believe if I replace all lines and the other real caliper it will be fixed, but I don't want to guess and hope to be right.
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Corby said:
It's a little difficult knowing what to buy until you get under there, unless you don't mind simply throwing money at the problem until its fixed.
First, you need to see where the leak is. Why replace the lines if their not leaking? Then you need to determine if the calipers are still freezing-up. How do you know whether the: a) piston is frozen; b) piston seal is leaking; c) slider-pins are frozen; or, d) the line (or lines) are colapsed - without looking? Without the above information you don't know whether the calipers or lines are causing the problem.
Bizzy
SHO Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2001
- Messages
- 13,222
- Reaction score
- 1,462
When the brakes get as hot as you describe often times the boot around the caliper piston will melt. Many times the piston will also freeze up inside its bore and the first time you press on the brakes it will totally blow out the caliper.
The rubber brake lines also suffer tremendously when they are heated to that extent. More than likely they are collapsed inside. The bracket should be replaced or, at the very least, you should remove them and take the slider pins out, clean the holes where they go out, replace the boots for the slider pins and then get some good fresh grease in there for those. The grease that's in there now will more than likely be roasted.
Always keep in mind that no matter what damages were done that this is, IMNSHO, the most valuable system on your car. You can go, go, go all you want but if you can't stop.....not good. So don't cheap out when it comes to your brakes. Fix them and fix them properly, no shortcuts. Damn the motor/trans if you can't stop when you need to.
The rubber brake lines also suffer tremendously when they are heated to that extent. More than likely they are collapsed inside. The bracket should be replaced or, at the very least, you should remove them and take the slider pins out, clean the holes where they go out, replace the boots for the slider pins and then get some good fresh grease in there for those. The grease that's in there now will more than likely be roasted.
Always keep in mind that no matter what damages were done that this is, IMNSHO, the most valuable system on your car. You can go, go, go all you want but if you can't stop.....not good. So don't cheap out when it comes to your brakes. Fix them and fix them properly, no shortcuts. Damn the motor/trans if you can't stop when you need to.
I took a look under the car, the only fluid leaking appears to be coming out of the rear passenger caliper, it looks as if it's coming right out of the piston. But why no pressure to the other side?? Maybe I didn't pump 'em enough? Or is it probably a hose on the driver side and the caliper for sure on the passenger side, that's what I'm putting my money on.
Rockledge
Pluggin' away
Replace the leaky caliper and replace both hoses. To me, that's the only ticket.
bigkev
91GrnSHOplus
just do calipers and hoses and be done with it, but be sure when your done that the parking brake cables are not binding(voice of experience)
Similar threads
