SM105K's SHO BIBLE/BUILDS/LIFE

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SM105K

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So funny story, then funnier story.

Driving home from dinner I see a paper plated 2019 Dodge Charger SRT 392 Hemi rolling on the freeway and he"aggressively" paces me in a lane over. I snicker, and say...."Why not, we are in Mexico." At a 70 roll (worst roll speed ever) he takes the hit and puts about about a half car on me. I pull even with him and lock him door to door till he lets out at over 120 ish. Lock and step with a 485 hp sedan, I am happy.

About 5 miles later everything is normal. I even glanced at my LiveWire after every pull to see is anything out of the normal, I even have alarms set... I get off the freeway and at about 50 ish I put her into sport mode (like I have done hundreds of times) for the corner, and I get a clunk. It literally felt like the trans got confused. I pulled over, ran the gear shift through all the gears everything seemed fine.

I turn the car off, restart it, cycle the gears again, and DO NOT have reverse. I put it in drive...car starts moving (but feels like it is shuddering) like the trans isn't building pressure. I get it on a side street and she will not shift by herself or with the paddles. The wrench came on then went off. I am only .5 miles away from home so I limped her back.

Checked under the car, no fluid, PTU is still intact. I checked the fluid it is clear and not burnt. I did an all night battery disconnect. Went out this morning. Started it, and still don't have reverse.

Oh well, looks like she will have a date with Ford soon.

The crazy thing is, I am not even mad.
 

SHOdded

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"Not even mad" LOL. A multitude of possibilities - from sensors to TC to clutch. Fingers crossed.
 

SM105K

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"Not even mad" LOL. A multitude of possibilities - from sensors to TC to clutch. Fingers crossed.

The funny thing is, I just PM'd you. lol.
 
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Johnbigdog

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Sounds like the direct clutch took a dump.

Edit: after further thought, If fist gear drive is affected, low/reverse is more likely. But direct is a common failure point.
 
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SM105K

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Sounds like the direct clutch took a dump.

Edit: after further thought, If fist gear drive is affected, low/reverse is more likely. But direct is a common failure point.


The story gets weirder. I lost reverse, and the trans after it shift from 1st to 2nd, it just stays in second. It makes no attempted to shift into third. It then locks me out and stays in second.

I live like 3 miles from a Ford Dealership. I took it there to diagnose it. I got it out of the driveway with no reverse. Drove down the street, it shifted 1st, 2nd, and then third...fell on its face and pushed me back into second gear on the way there.

They diagnosed it, as a P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance/Stuck Off, and as a P2701 Trans Friction Element B Apply Time Range/Perf. They wanted to crack her open for $1125 (7.5 book hours) just to see it what it needs. I declined and drove her home. On the way home (back streets all the way) I came to stop sign, the wrench came on and the CEL came. However, it shuddered and then I had all forward gears again, (third is wonky but there). I got home, and put the car in reverse and reverse is there (it isn't happy but it is there).

In my limited knowledge of transmissions wouldn't this lean towards a faulty solenoid? If it was stuck off it wouldn't allow the trans to properly activate the affected gears? If the solenoid is unsticking/intermittently working again and the car has those gears again...do you think I could get away with just having the solenoid changed? That seems alot better then having her cracked open?

Like I said, this happened on a left hand turn off the freeway. I put it into sport mode the same exact time it down shifted on its own. I think it wigged that solenoid out.....

 
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Johnbigdog

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Cool, if you have 1 and 2, and no 3rd, then it is a direct clutch failure.

The d.t.c.s you have are mechanical. So a shift soelnoid, valve in the main control valve body, or a clutch fault internal to the transmission. You can remove the main control and inspect the valves/replace the solenoid body (can't do individual soelnoids), or replace the whole thing (soelnoids and valve body). If you replace the whole part or the solenoids the P.C.M. will need to be updated with the new solenoid I.D.

The 1k price sounds like they were quoting you the r&r of the solenoid body and re-eval. Not a transmission removal and inspection, but 7 hours makes is sound like it was. Hmmm.

As you noted, you can't test SSB mechanically so it's only ruled out through replacement.
 

SHOdded

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Ya unfortunately u have to remove the solenoid body to even test each solenoid. Unlike the TRS.
 

SM105K

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Cool, if you have 1 and 2, and no 3rd, then it is a direct clutch failure.

The d.t.c.s you have are mechanical. So a shift soelnoid, valve in the main control valve body, or a clutch fault internal to the transmission. You can remove the main control and inspect the valves/replace the solenoid body (can't do individual soelnoids), or replace the whole thing (soelnoids and valve body). If you replace the whole part or the solenoids the P.C.M. will need to be updated with the new solenoid I.D.

The 1k price sounds like they were quoting you the r&r of the solenoid body and re-eval. Not a transmission removal and inspection, but 7 hours makes is sound like it was. Hmmm.

As you noted, you can't test SSB mechanically so it's only ruled out through replacement.


I am going to stew on it. I have a couple of things happening in life right now so honestly it isn't a priority since it isnt my daily. I just find it weird that this is happening after literally after ZERO tell signs the trans "was on its way out".
 

SHOdded

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Manufacturer Communication Number: SSM 46069

Summary

Some 2015-2016 vehicles equipped with 6F50/6F55 transmission Built On 11/2/2015 And Through 2/1/2016 may exhibit no reverse, 3rd and 5th gear and/or DTCs P0715, P0717, P0756 and/or P2701. This may be caused by the direct clutch snap ring out of position and/or damage to the direct clutch hub. The cause of the failure is the Tone Wheel surface putting uneven load on the snap ring. To repair this condition the Tone Wheel (7F283) must be replaced,(also referred to as Direct Clutch Cylinder/Tone wheel) in addition to the Tone Wheel, replace Direct Clutch Hub (7G384), Direct Clutch Return Spring (7F235), Direct Clutch Snap Ring (7C122), TSS Sensor (7M101), Seal Kit (7153) and filter in the kit. Disassemble, clean the transmission and main control to remove metal particles. Refer to WSM, Section 307-01. Use causal part 7F283 and applicable Labor ops from SLTS section 7.

18 Affected Products
Vehicles

MAKE
MODEL YEAR

FORD EDGE 2015-2016
FORD EXPLORER 2015-2016
FORD FLEX 2015-2016
FORD POLICE INTERCEPTOR SEDAN 2015-2016
FORD TAURUS 2015-2016
LINCOLN MKS 2015-2016
LINCOLN MKT 2015-2016
LINCOLN MKX 2015-2016
LINCOLN MKZ 2015-2016
 

shoblock

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Been DD'ing the SHO for the past 3 weeks. GTI is getting worked on. I took the SHO to Cali a couple of times, ect. During the second trip, I started getting over active BOV's. Mine are vented to atmosphere, (maybe re-vent them back to the stock locations, I am the fence) so they are very noticeable. Very light throttle they are doing their song and dance. I chatted with Brad and he told me log it. Took me way too long to get the logs to him (my fault).

Friday night I took the BOV's off to check the o rings and they were good. I had the cover off and everything and did a once over of the top end. I went out and data logged the car and sent them to Brad late Friday night. I looked that the logs and noticed there was a difference in tip boost and MAP boost pressures. I was seeing 29 psi at the turbos, but only the commanded 18 psi at the MAP sensor. I didn't think much of it at the time, being up for 20 hours didn't help this. In hind sight, I know better.

I ended up going to the track Saturday afternoon/night and ended up running a PB. The car was getting it in the 8th mile, but just didn't seem right on the big end. It has run as fast as 112 in 1/4. It only ran 108.98 as the fasted pass that night. Packed it up disappointed because I thought she would run faster with it being way colder, way better DA, and a way better 60 foot. I know the 60 foot can affect MPH, however I didn't think 4 to 5 mph.

On the way home Brad literally emails me and says, "DON'T DRIVE THE CAR HARD!" OOPS. He could see in the logs that something wrong and told me to check all of my boost reference hoses. He also saw the difference in boost.

Sure enough he was correct. I got home and yanked the cover, and there she was. A hose was detached. Why any line that sees boost that isn't properly secured (hose clamp, spring clamp, zip tie, bubble gum, super glue, Ford was stupid about this) is beyond me. I posted pictures. Long story short, the turbos were running away (over boosting). The computer sees this and actually closes the throttle to limit boost into the motor (Ford was smart about that). I fixed the line and now she is back to normal and now has the big end rush again.

At the track with the boost reference line issue the car was getting all the boost out off the launch. The computer saw this and started closing the throttle during the pass, so....maybe in January we will see a faster pass.

Long story short car went faster (not at 100%), check your boost reference line (clamp it down), and SENT IT!

Also my SHO at full weight (no weight reduction) with me in it (240 lbs) and a quarter tank of gas weighs 4560 lbs. So 4320 by herself.
Luckily, your photo efforts did not fall on deaf ears. I'm taking your photos to the plant when my back heals enough to go back to work. After a personal check on the assembly line, I will go to the appropriate Quality teams to see if this can be addressed. Understand that our motors have been through many revisions since 2013, and if anyone else had this hose come off under warranty, it would have been addressed as the site manager would have asked "how can we be sure this will never happen again?' Best revision? Fine threads on the main bearings in late 2015,
 

SM105K

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Luckily, your photo efforts did not fall on deaf ears. I'm taking your photos to the plant when my back heals enough to go back to work. After a personal check on the assembly line, I will go to the appropriate Quality teams to see if this can be addressed. Understand that our motors have been through many revisions since 2013, and if anyone else had this hose come off under warranty, it would have been addressed as the site manager would have asked "how can we be sure this will never happen again?' Best revision? Fine threads on the main bearings in late 2015,

I appreciate it. Like I said in my post, I was shocked that the reference line was not secured. I love my SHO. It is probably my most favorite car I have ever owned. Ford did a great job IMO with these cars, but it is things like that.......lol. I am glad I didn't lose a piston.
 

SM105K

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Any thoughts about an upgraded rebuilt transmission?
I have been diving into this. The snap ring on the direct drive for the 3rd gear/5th gear/reverse is know to just fall off. Also the "wavey discs" are know to snap in the same drive hub. We are taking it apart and figuring out how to proceed. Maybe there are somethings we can make better in house.
 

SM105K

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Car is officially at the shop, been an interesting couple of months for me personally. Should have her back next week.
 

Bronco2fan

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Well hopefully it's not a horrible experience or expensive. I remember getting some quotes for mine when I thought the TC was going out. Tranny shop said about 1k for every gear our trannies have, so roughly 6k to rebuild it stouter, but really nothing out there for them.

Cheaper to replace it was the final thought.

Good luck and and keep us posted.

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk
 

Jordan_R

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That's really interesting, first I've heard of that. Shodded to the rescue with that info. Hopefully everything is straight forward and not a costly repair.
 

SM105K

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Well hopefully it's not a horrible experience or expensive. I remember getting some quotes for mine when I thought the TC was going out. Tranny shop said about 1k for every gear our trannies have, so roughly 6k to rebuild it stouter, but really nothing out there for them.

Cheaper to replace it was the final thought.

Good luck and and keep us posted.

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk

Bronco, there is literally nothing out there for upgrades. We are going to Zip Kit it, however that is about it. Pretty sure a wave disc or that snap ring failed. 3-5-R was intermittent. They are going to open it up and see which is better. A rebuilt will save me a bunch, if they have to replace the unit is is going to be about 5800. I almost feel out of my chair when he came back with the quote......Going foward, I am pretty sure I am going to do the 5 quart in and 5 quart method for the trans every oil change as well.
 

SM105K

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Trans Failure Update: After inspection, the snap ring on the 3-5-R drum decided to exit stage left. It failed and wiped out the trans. The good thing is there was not a wave disc failure. However, I am getting a new unit.
 

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