roswell998
Member
If I reshim the valves, the car will have to be down for several days while I order tools/shims or wait on a rental kit. I would prefer to get it running, but don't want to press luck too far.
Advice requested regarding replacing shims. The original 60K was done at 55K and all of the valves were still well within specs. Therefore, at 106K miles all of the shims are original. Also, they are all mirror smooth and flat. Cams look perfect.
Since I only drive about 5K miles per year now and they are very easy miles, I wonder if I should replace shims or just leave them as-is for another 20-30K miles. At what point on the upper limit of gap are you running risk of engine damage? I'm not trying to squeeze every ounce of HP out of it.
Measurements are as follows:
Cyl#1(E=13/14..I=8/10) Cyl#2(E=14/15..I=10/10) Cyl#3(E=14/14..I=9/8)
Cyl#4(E=14/14..I=9/9) Cyl#5(E=14/13..I=9/9) Cyl#6(E=14/14..I=9/8)
Note that most of the exhaust valves are at the upper end of gap spec and one of them is 1/1000 over. The intake valves are within tolerance with only 2 of them at the upper end.
Thanks
Advice requested regarding replacing shims. The original 60K was done at 55K and all of the valves were still well within specs. Therefore, at 106K miles all of the shims are original. Also, they are all mirror smooth and flat. Cams look perfect.
Since I only drive about 5K miles per year now and they are very easy miles, I wonder if I should replace shims or just leave them as-is for another 20-30K miles. At what point on the upper limit of gap are you running risk of engine damage? I'm not trying to squeeze every ounce of HP out of it.
Measurements are as follows:
Cyl#1(E=13/14..I=8/10) Cyl#2(E=14/15..I=10/10) Cyl#3(E=14/14..I=9/8)
Cyl#4(E=14/14..I=9/9) Cyl#5(E=14/13..I=9/9) Cyl#6(E=14/14..I=9/8)
Note that most of the exhaust valves are at the upper end of gap spec and one of them is 1/1000 over. The intake valves are within tolerance with only 2 of them at the upper end.
Thanks