SHO Stopped While Driving

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Phoenix

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Or a crank regrind + thicker rod bearings , RCM has them.

Cmon guys, geesh.

Hey my CKP is bad let's replace the engine!!!!11111111111
 
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hawkeye18

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Um, a crank regrind usually costs just as much as a new engine, and plus, you get a new engine...
 

DigDeez

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Generally, when the little red light comes on, you don't assume that it's the sensor that's bad. You have to assume that the sensor is doing its job, and that means when the red oil light comes on, your rod bearings are toasting, and you need to stop the damn car.

I would almost guarantee that you fried the rod bearings. If you didn't score the crank (unlikely), you'll get away with replacing the bearings and slapping yourself. If they did score the crank, it's new engine time. This can be a good thing, though, cos then you might as well convert to the 3.2 manual...

Oh, the SHO doesn't have rocker arms. He's assuming the engine is a pushrod design. The cams directly push down on the valves. It's rod knock. The more you run the engine, the more you damage the crank. Eventually, the rod bearing will spin completely, lodge itself in the rod, and seize the engine.

SO DON'T START IT AGAIN!

Take the oil pan off, inspect the damage. Have it TOWED to a shop if necessary. I hope you have a surfeit of cash handy, you might need it....


Should I inspect the rod bearings first before inspecting the cam tensioner belt and taking off the top of the engine? I'm very unfamiliar with how the crank will look and where it's at, so when and how will I know if it's damaged?
 

hawkeye18

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92% of the time, the red oil light of death means your rod bearings have/are about to spin. 8% of the time, it's just the sensor being stupid. red oil light + knocking = 100% rod bearings. I really wouldn't even bother with the cam tensioner, which BTW is a block of plastic somethingorother on a strut. The crank is, uh, at the bottom of the engine. Go here to read a great how-to. I guess it is a little more complicated than I thought...
 

DigDeez

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92% of the time, the red oil light of death means your rod bearings have/are about to spin. 8% of the time, it's just the sensor being stupid. red oil light + knocking = 100% rod bearings. I really wouldn't even bother with the cam tensioner, which BTW is a block of plastic somethingorother on a strut. The crank is, uh, at the bottom of the engine. Go here to read a great how-to. I guess it is a little more complicated than I thought...

Hey, thanks for all the help. Yeah, that link is the very reason why I won't even attempt such a task. I've done many repairs to my SHO's, including the vcg's twice and a spindle, but I'll pass on the rod bearings.

It'll be a week until I tackle the rod bearings, unfortunately for me. I post the results when repairs are done. Hoping......
 

Devin

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So far the rod bearing job was one of the easiest parts of my rebuild. Putting the pan and strainer back on was by far much harder. Don't ask why.

Ha! This image from that link is priceless!
44.JPG
 
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Toolman

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The rod bearings were probably okay when the light was just flickering, but if you heard the knock as loud as you described, your crank and a rod are toast. You can probably buy another SHO for less than it will take to fix this one.

Sorry.
 

DigDeez

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The rod bearings were probably okay when the light was just flickering, but if you heard the knock as loud as you described, your crank and a rod are toast. You can probably buy another SHO for less than it will take to fix this one.

Sorry.

C'mon, that's terrible news. It's probably what's wrong with mine too. How will I know if the crank is toast, anyone?
 

gas it

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I told you, the motor is fried. Driving with the oil light on is as smart as driving with the temp in the H. Your motor is a boat anchor now. I bet there's damage to the cam lobes and oil pump too. Go find another motor and fix everything on it BEFORE you install it.
 

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