SHO Stopped While Driving

[DigDeez]

On the way to work today my sho kept stalling. Twice it stopped when I came to a stop. And on two other times, it stalled while driving.

I haven't gotten the chance to look things completely, nor run codes. Issues in the recent past are:

1-red oil light blinking and coming on intermittently. I need to replace the oil pressure sending unit screw.
2-CEL has been on/off.
3-ghetto rigged the ending wire to the alternator that screws to the side. The metal piece broke off, but now it's been fine for a month as part of the metal is tightly screwed with the nut.

This issue could be oxygen sensor related, but I doubt it. The car sort of did this when the metal piece broke initially. I checked that wire and it's snuggly still on there. My alternator could have went bad. No warning signs though. The battery tested very good. No light dimming at all. Now, the car won't try and turn, but it's doing more than a click.

Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[DigDeez]

Also, my oil level was fine, but I hope that oil sending unit going faulty didn't totally screw the engine.

Also, the battery light came on when the car stalled, but as I said, while the car was off, the battery tested very well. Just had it recharged recently.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

Also, my oil level was fine, but I hope that oil sending unit going faulty didn't totally screw the engine.

Also, the battery light came on when the car stalled, but as I said, while the car was off, the battery tested very well. Just had it recharged recently.

usually when the car stalls liek that you get a christmas tree of a dash board, and this sounds to me like a classic cps (crank position sensor problem) check to see if your water pump is leaking. What happens is it starts leaking and messes up the cps. When was the last time you did a 60k?

 

[naval-avi8or]

Or fuel pump!

 

[DigDeez]

Or fuel pump!

I had that thought as well. As I turned the key to the on position, the pump did sound a bit weird.

 

[DigDeez]

usually when the car stalls liek that you get a christmas tree of a dash board, and this sounds to me like a classic cps (crank position sensor problem) check to see if your water pump is leaking. What happens is it starts leaking and messes up the cps. When was the last time you did a 60k?

I replaced the cps that was on the car a month ago. It was a used one from my other departed sho. I'll check for a water pump leak though. When the other cps was going out, the car was at least trying to start, but it sounded really bad when I was trying to start it. This current problem, the car won't even try and start up.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

I replaced the cps that was on the car a month ago. It was a used one from my other departed sho. I'll check for a water pump leak though. When the other cps was going out, the car was at least trying to start, but it sounded really bad when I was trying to start it. This current problem, the car won't even try and start up.

how about a cam sensor? if i recall cam sensors when they go will make the car not start. Also is the cps gapped right and what kinda shape was the used one in, its normally good practice to replace those with new.

 

[Ferendon]

The solution he offered doesn't have much to do with a bad CPS. The water pump leaks coolant on the CPS, overheats it, and the car shuts down. And why would you use a used CPS??? Not to mention, if you're flickering an oil light, then you probably need rod bearings.

Check the water pump gasket, and crosstube O-rings, make sure they're good. It's alot of work, but if it allows you to actually drive your car...

 

[gas it]

Your motor is locked up from no oil pressure. But do a 60k, fuel pump, o2 sensors anyway who knows it just might crunk up.

 

[DigDeez]

Sorry guys for using a used cps. It was just too easy to take it off of my other parts sho that's been recently junked.

 

[DigDeez]

O.k. guys, I've checked the car out more.

Got off of work and went to the car to start it up, and it started right up. The crank time is longer than usual. But that was the case earlier in the day.

The codes I got were: 176(system is lean-LH), 511(test failure-EEC), 543(fuel pump secondary circuit failure).

After driving for a few minutes the car (engine) started making some loud constant knocking sound; didn't sound good at all. I pulled into a gas station and had it towed home from there. The engine didn't seem as hot as I know it should have been. The temp of the engine (by touch) did slowly get up to temp. The engine was making noises and it really sounded very dry. A guy said that it sounds like oil isn't getting to all the components. Now, I'm kicking myself for not replacing my oil pressure sending unit (a lil screw, right?) in a timely fashion. The noise could have been the rod bearings making the noise.

The car is starting up, nonetheless. But, I won't try and start it again until I replace the oil sending unit in the a.m.

In addition, the tranny sounds like there's a problem. This issue happened at the same time the stalling and no start started. It's bogging and hesitating and slow to respond and not shifting right at all. And, when the auto tranny shifts, a constant soft knocking noise is very audible. I can only hear this noise at the shift changes. I did engage in some very spirited driving the previous night, then the next morning these issues occurred.

Well, I'll be waiting for all the bad news from you guy.:cry:

 

[rudedog]

I'll give ya $50.00 for it, as is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[gas it]

I'll give ya $50.00 for it, as is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's worth more than that. It has a new used CPS.

 

[DigDeez]

Any real thoughts out there regarding my issue(s)?

 

[DigDeez]

Just changed out the oil pressure sending unit. But the noise that's coming from inside the engine is more important. Took a chance in starting it up so that this much more mechanically inclined fella could hear it, and within 2 seconds he said he imediately knew what the sound was and had me to shut off the sho.

He said that the noises were my rocker arms, only in the front of the engine. He said one might just be laying there, and they all need to be torched to spec.

Does this sound accurate? I'll do a lil' search on rocker arms in the meantime.

 

[DigDeez]

LOL, just read that the sho doesn't have rocker arms? Then, maybe loose tensioner chain?

 

[hawkeye18]

Generally, when the little red light comes on, you don't assume that it's the sensor that's bad. You have to assume that the sensor is doing its job, and that means when the red oil light comes on, your rod bearings are toasting, and you need to stop the damn car.

I would almost guarantee that you fried the rod bearings. If you didn't score the crank (unlikely), you'll get away with replacing the bearings and slapping yourself. If they did score the crank, it's new engine time. This can be a good thing, though, cos then you might as well convert to the 3.2 manual...

Oh, the SHO doesn't have rocker arms. He's assuming the engine is a pushrod design. The cams directly push down on the valves. It's rod knock. The more you run the engine, the more you damage the crank. Eventually, the rod bearing will spin completely, lodge itself in the rod, and seize the engine.

SO DON'T START IT AGAIN!

Take the oil pan off, inspect the damage. Have it TOWED to a shop if necessary. I hope you have a surfeit of cash handy, you might need it....

 

[DigDeez]

I won't do the rod bearings myself. So how much for labor would anyone pay a mechanic to do this job? Doesn't it take less than a hour to do?

 

[hawkeye18]

Generally it's pretty quick. Take the oil pan off, remove the oil pickup tube and screen, and it's right there. six bolts and the caps are off. Shouldn't cost more than $100 to do at a shop, assuming you provide the parts... (clevite rod bearings). If the crank is scored, you're looking at a new engine ($400 for engine +labor)...

 

[SeanMc]

Generally it's pretty quick. Take the oil pan off, remove the oil pickup tube and screen, and it's right there. six bolts and the caps are off. Shouldn't cost more than $100 to do at a shop, assuming you provide the parts... (clevite rod bearings). If the crank is scored, you're looking at a new engine ($400 for engine +labor)...

$100? That's only 1.25 hours of work around here. I'm sure it'll be a little more. $200-ish.