SHO running too cold???

[SHOemup]

My Car runs extremely cold. If i'm moving, it usually runs between that blue line at the very bottom and the bottom tack mark. I dont think the thermostat is stuck open because i get great heat and if i sit at a light for a while, or i let it idle long enough, it gets in between the M and the A. When it gets that warm and i start moving, it almost intantly drops down to the bottom tack mark. I just had a new radiator put in but it ran cool before that too. Any ideas??

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Chris Reina

"Don't drive like you own the car, drive like you own the road!"

AIM=turbochris12

93 MTX stock
emerald green
filler decals
Yamaha emblems
110k
Lund Headlight Covers
Lund Tailight Blackouts
SHO window banner
Tinted Windows (20%)
Vent Shades
Big wish list!!

 

[edogg23]

My car was exactly like that. When I replaced my sending unit and t-stat it went away. You should try replacing both since they are right next to each other and the sending unit is cheap.

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_______________________
Erik from Orlando 89 silver SHO 128k miles dynomax cat back w/out resonator, ss y-pipe, ss underdrive pulleys,eibach springs, koni struts, pp motor mounts, 17X8 fitipaldi polaris rims with 245/45/17 zr comp t/a tires SHO FEAR written across the windshield, v1 radar detector quantum tinted windows, custom cold air intake with a ractive heat shield. 14.8 @ 93 mph in 90 degree weather!

 

[sdpatt]

The original Motorcraft thermostat, RT-1112, has a rubber seat that is susceptible to deterioration. This allows a small amount of coolant to pass to the radiator and cool the engine even when the thermostat is closed. You have described the telltale symptoms of this situation. There are two 10mm nuts on the thermostat housing under the throttle body and they are easier (less difficult) to access with the intake hose removed. It is simpler to loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body and unclip the two clips on the air filter box and just lift the intake hose and filter lid together.

I don't see a valid reason to replace the temperature sender just because the thermostat has failed. The original sender is still working on my car after 11 years and 254,000 miles. Do it if you must, but there is no correlation between failures of the thermostat and the temperature sender.


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Scott

1991, 253K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, SHO Shop front & rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
Class II hitch, Silver award at the SHOklahoma Car Show

 

[LIZARDKING]

My Plymouth started running alittle cold also. When I pulled the thermostat housing, BIG SURPRISE! The thermostat had gernaded and the pieces were stuck together, letting about 1/2 the flow through. I went to AZ for a replacement, didn't work of course. Went to Dealer and for only 2$ more got a factory replacement. You did replace the thermostate when you replaced the radator didn't you?

 

[SHOemup]

Thanks for the help

 

[RJ-92]

Originally posted by sdpatt:
.

I don't see a valid reason to replace the temperature sender just because the thermostat has failed. The original sender is still working on my car after 11 years and 254,000 miles. Do it if you must, but there is no correlation between failures of the thermostat and the temperature sender.

I have to agree with Edogg, I'd change both. I had the same problem as you on my 92. After I changed the T-stat temp readings were still really low. Upon further inspection of the old T-stat there was nothing wrong with it. It was the sending unit afterall.

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Ron Wazz

Red 92 MTX 109K
ss y-pipe,
dynomax cat-back w/1 superturbo & 1 ultra-flo muffler,
street/strip clutch,
18Lb. fly wheel,
ss tq limiters,
bored out MAF,
UDPs, ported intake
Konis and Eibachs, 26mm RSB
In storage for the winter